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What did it cost?
The rebuild was $1400 for the full rebuild kit and labor but then on top of that any special parts that were broken were added costs. For me it came out to $2600 because I needed a torque convertor which was $400 for a new one and a couple other parts. It really hurt having to pay it outta nowhere but now it drives great and I have a two year warranty on it. I hope that helps a bit.
 
Thread revival.

So from reading all this first try to reflash the TCM, if that does not work buy a used one that has similar numbers and then get it programmed at an Indy? My E46 is having the same issue as many on here. Car slips when taking off until a loud thump then its stuck in 4th gear limp mode with red cog of death sign.
 
Same kind of issue

Hey I'm having an issue with the AT.
Started out of no where which leaves me to believe its a technical issue related to some kind of malfunction of computer or something.
Was driving the car for like 15-20 minutes perfectly normal and then out of the blue it started shifting abnormal, revving high before changing gear or not wanting to change at all. Then as the car got to operating temp the transmission light popped on and went into "safe mode" stays in 3rd gear. I can turn the car off for like 5 minutes and it flicks off the light and will shift fine again for another 10 or so minutes before doing it all over again.
What could cause that?
I say it's not the gears themselves went bad cuz the trans has shifted smooth as butter before this issue just happened out of no where when I started it and drove it the other day.
 
I doubt its that, I just recently had my whole coolant system done...an update to the situation is the problem seems to be getting worst. Not leaking anything, but after I drive for a short time I smell a burning smell. And now when I go in reverse or forward the hard will rev up before engaging the gear, sometimes will even buck into gear. And when it starts going itll rev out high to about 4000rpm before even changing gear. Then stay at about 3500rpm and change again rapidly to about 4th gear and it doesn't seem to be giving me as much power as I used to have, hardly any throttle response. I just had the car full tune up all new coils and plugs no misfires or check engine light on...which is odd, clearly something is wrong but the check engine light hasn't come on at all, even when the trans light comes on.
This has me stumped, I'm gonna take it off the road for now till I get some extra money, cuz I have a feeling the transmission could be done for :(
 
I doubt its that, I just recently had my whole coolant system done...an update to the situation is the problem seems to be getting worst. Not leaking anything, but after I drive for a short time I smell a burning smell. And now when I go in reverse or forward the hard will rev up before engaging the gear, sometimes will even buck into gear. And when it starts going itll rev out high to about 4000rpm before even changing gear. Then stay at about 3500rpm and change again rapidly to about 4th gear and it doesn't seem to be giving me as much power as I used to have, hardly any throttle response. I just had the car full tune up all new coils and plugs no misfires or check engine light on...which is odd, clearly something is wrong but the check engine light hasn't come on at all, even when the trans light comes on.
This has me stumped, I'm gonna take it off the road for now till I get some extra money, cuz I have a feeling the transmission could be done for :(
I had similar issues.
I had a clogged trans cooler. Burnt the fluid. Once it's burnt you have to change it.
Have you ever changed you're atf and filter?

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Majority of the time low voltage will cause these faults. Once replacing your battery, reseting the adaptions on your vehicle will resolve this issue. for more info http://www.eurobahnm.com/
 
Battery voltage is 12.5 when not running and 14.3 when running ATF fluid I used was valvoline multi vehicle import ATF shows on the bottle its for BMWs...the ATF level is fine so is the engine oil and coolant. It has to be something with the transmission itself, I started it up one day and it just happened it wasn't gradual at all, out of the blue. This has me stumped... I don't wanna sell her if its an easy fix please help!

It feels like a slipping clutch. I put it in reverse, hit the gas and it doesnt move for like a second or two then grips gear and goes. Same with forward. I've had issues with it not going on reverse at all and after waiting a little bit starting it up again it'll engage. Just for some more info about the car.
 
I have same problem as many on here (pretty much everything Angel said):
- Feels like its starting in 3rd and has no power/abnormal shifting (when in limp mode)
- Death clog randomly comes on after about 10-20min of driving
- OBD scanner prints out
+ P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
+ P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
+ P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
+ P0734 - Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
- After resetting the codes, immediately car shifts normally and has no problems

- Trans fluids are topped up
- No other dash lights are on (sometimes check engine comes on with the gear but not always_
 
I have same problem as many on here (pretty much everything Angel said):
- Feels like its starting in 3rd and has no power/abnormal shifting (when in limp mode)
- Death clog randomly comes on after about 10-20min of driving
- OBD scanner prints out
+ P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
+ P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
+ P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
+ P0734 - Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
- After resetting the codes, immediately car shifts normally and has no problems

- Trans fluids are topped up
- No other dash lights are on (sometimes check engine comes on with the gear but not always_
Did you ever solve your problem?
 
I have same problem as many on here (pretty much everything Angel said):
- Feels like its starting in 3rd and has no power/abnormal shifting (when in limp mode)
- Death clog randomly comes on after about 10-20min of driving
- OBD scanner prints out
+ P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
+ P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
+ P0700 - Transmission Control System Malfunction
+ P0734 - Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
- After resetting the codes, immediately car shifts normally and has no problems

- Trans fluids are topped up
- No other dash lights are on (sometimes check engine comes on with the gear but not always_
You need to look into the Lean codes and the possibility the MAF connection is bad and/or the MAF wiring may be broken.

Often when the MAF is not working properly this can illuminate the Cog Of Death and cause the EML and/or Trans light to come on.

My biggest concern is the P0700, there may be more to this, possible wiring damaged, even possible rodent damage to the wiring??

See this thread: Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Also look closely at charging Voltage stability.
 
No worries, i'm searching threads furiously to see if i can find some solution. I have similar codes to you and recently resolved the lean codes. But I don't know why my car throws those transmission codes (gear 5 incorrect ratio) while driving mainly on the highway and especially when cruising down a hill. Smh.

Did you ever have this symptom: when you lift your foot off the gas pedal, the rpm slowly starts to decrease instead of an immediate decrease?

I performed smoke tests and found no visible air leaks but I'll check the MAF wiring again.

I guess i might have to throw in the towel and admit it's a transmission issue.
 
When I let off the gas the RPMs would quickly drop down to nothing right away, almost like it wasn't in a gear. Apparently the shop said 4 gear was shredded. I would take it to an actual transmission specific shop first, might be worth their opinion. From my limited understanding of the code, it can be caused by the gear slips for even half a second. When that happens the output shaft is rotating slower than the computer calculates it should be based on the input shaft.. or something like that. Good luck eh
 
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