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E46 328ci, looking for complete a/c delete DIY

32K views 29 replies 19 participants last post by  dknightd  
#1 ·
Looking for a DIY on a complete removal of the a/c out of a 328ci(m52tu)

What I'm looking for is a better power to weight ratio. It is my dd, but happens to be the first car I've ever had with a working ac so no tears for the loss of comfort. It tends to be colder in the area I live anyway.

I need to know all of the components to remove (obviously more then just the compressor) and if any custom work must be done after removal, to ensure everything works properly.

I understand that this will lose me around 50 lbs when finished, and also take a belt away, so I'm not sacrificing power for something I don't need.

Anyone done this?
 
#2 ·
Your A/C has a variable clutch, it hogs no power when the unit is not running. 50lbs is nothing.
 
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#4 ·
Are you going to release the refrigerant to atmosphere? Naughty, naughty.

You should be able to trace the lines pretty easily. Remove everything you can; basically, the compressor, condenser, and drier. I would probably cap the lines coming through the firewall, that was a future owner can reinstall it if they wish.
 
#5 ·
You can remove the stuff on the engine bay side of the firewall and as noted earlier, might save 50 pounds. Not sure why you would do this over 50 pounds.

If you were doing hardcore racing, you would pull the dash out and remove the heater core and evap box. that might net another 30 pounds?

Since the AC stuff on a 3-series doesn't take up much space in the engine bay and doesn't add all that much weight, AC Delete doesn't make sense to me unless you're going full race.
 
#7 ·
All points taken, I'll still be doing this soon.
Call me crazy but I value all weight reduction, I'll be keeping the car for a long time anyway don't plan on ever selling it.
Thanks lcoleman I'll probably do just that, meaning capping the lines, I'll get rid of the freon safely.

Still would love to see a DIY!
 
#11 ·
reducing weight in a DD....

so, will you be removing seats (leaving out the rear and passenger seats and install a race seat for driver), all the carpeting (that ish is heavy), door panels, windows (and install lexan), speakers, amp, head unit?

Do you have a subwoofer?

CF hood and trunk?

remove fog lights

weld in metal plate to delete the sunroof cassette - that thing is REALLY HEAVY

center console?

is your car manual or auto
 
#15 ·
Freon isn't used anymore, something to do with the EPA. The modern equivalent is called R-134A. If your AC system has never been touched, it's possible there's freon in there. Not sure when they did away with it.

As for removing the AC system, engine side. Luckily everything is on the passenger side, not all over the place.
Remove the following to get to the hoses:
1. Washer tank
2. Air pump

To get to the condenser:
1. Look up a DIY on a radiator install, both the condenser, radiator, and PS cooling lines are mounted into one assembly by two piece end caps. You'll have to disassemble it to get at the condenser.

Compressor: four bolts (IIRC)
All the connections for the system are made by Allen bolts (1/4, IIRC), but there's a brackt attaching the high side fill point to the passenger side storage compartment, and a bracket that holds the dryer(?) assembly on.

I think that's it.
 
#21 ·
Freon isn't used anymore, something to do with the EPA. The modern equivalent is called R-134A. If your AC system has never been touched, it's possible there's freon in there. Not sure when they did away with it.
Better get used to realizing that 134a is freon too.
There is a whole family of freons: http://www.ask.com/questions-about/R134a-Freon

R-12 banned because some people believe it has the power to end the world.
I miss my R-12. It was good cold stuff. Let's give it another chance!

Take out the 50lb. compressor if that's what floats your boat. Good to experiment to get real world experience. This is located out front, so it's in the worst place to wreak havoc on your polar moment of inertia.
I once took the 50lb. battery hung out on the front of my 2002 and moved it to between the rear wheels in the trunk. You could feel the difference in turn-in. Of course that car weighed only about 2000lb compared to the 3400lb. e46.

Look for DIY? Not gonna find it. Just figure it out component by component, using the few pointers you've received here. Not rocket science.
 
#17 ·
Personally, when I have the A/C on it takes away about 30% of the power on the butt dyno.

Smooth shifting is also next to impossible with it on, and must be done much faster.
It feels as though I have a lightweight flywheel as the revs drop much faster while the A/C is running.

Something is wrong :(
 
#26 ·
My car must be broken too. A/C robs some of the power when I have it on... though I wouldn't say 30%. Then again, I do have a 323i so it's not like power is it's strong suit anyways.
 
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#27 ·
I removed all my carpets, trunk carpeting and hard spare tire cover, cleaned the windows really well...and I came up to around 12 lbs. and thought, how stupid is that to beat BeMyWhip at a drag race.

I hope op didn't do this, though, as all I could think was that his radiator is now unprotected with the condenser...nice little shield for a more important part of the car.
 
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