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That isn't my car. I personally will be running a non staggered set of M-Parallels. 18x9.5 et25 front, 18x9.5 et15 (with 10mm spacer) out back. I've test fit the wheels, just waiting to buy tires. I am lowered on ST coils. -3 degrees of camber, and rolled fenders.
i need help finding a way to fit my M parallels on my vert...its been a nightmare with rubbing and i cant take it much longer...advice?
 

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Just ordered a set of Replica M-Parallel's today.

Current setup is:
Oem M3 18x9 squared (4) running 20mm spacers out back, 18mm spacers up front. SO 18x9 et.6 rear, 18x9 et.8 front stock fenders, stock quarter panels 325ci lowered on coilovers, NO rubbing at all..............................................................................................................
NEW Setup:
Replica M Parallels 18x9.5 et.5 REAR (using previous 20mm spacer) and 18x9.5 et.7 FRONT (using previous 18mm spacer) tires are 215/40/18 all around on both wheel setups.

New M-Parallel wheels will provide only 7mm more "Poke" then the old 18x9 M3 wheels setup. I can easily pull this off without any fender work whatsoever


The 3-Series:
 

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Just ordered a set of Replica M-Parallel's today.

Current setup is:
Oem M3 18x9 squared (4) running 20mm spacers out back, 18mm spacers up front. SO 18x9 et.6 rear, 18x9 et.8 front stock fenders, stock quarter panels 325ci lowered on coilovers, NO rubbing at all..............................................................................................................
NEW Setup:
Replica M Parallels 18x9.5 et.5 REAR (using previous 20mm spacer) and 18x9.5 et.7 FRONT (using previous 18mm spacer) tires are 215/40/18 all around on both wheel setups.

New M-Parallel wheels will provide only 7mm more "Poke" then the old 18x9 M3 wheels setup. I can easily pull this off without any fender work whatsoever



The 3-Series:
this is how mine are sitting with no spacers on and 240/40/18 with rubbing...i hate the rubbing its kinda bad...u can smell it and its even on turns and light bumps
i do have 15mm spacers id like to put on the rear when i can get these wheels to fit properly
i dont have adjustable suspension either
 

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The only way to fit Style 37's on a non-M E46 is a combination of stretched tires (245/40's are way to wide/tall), negative camber, and rolled fenders. It is just physics.

Eric W... any way to camber those wheels in? That is a lot of "Mexi" poke. And, "only" 7mm is 1/4" further out. That much poke, to me, looks like it doesn't fit.
 

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The only way to fit Style 37's on a non-M E46 is a combination of stretched tires (245/40's are way to wide/tall), negative camber, and rolled fenders. It is just physics.

Eric W... any way to camber those wheels in? That is a lot of "Mexi" poke. And, "only" 7mm is 1/4" further out. That much poke, to me, looks like it doesn't fit.
Yea I deff. dont want to be Mexi poking around town. I can still go lower quite a bit on my coilovers maybe 1.5 inch drop left and that should add some natural camber but my real concern is if I continue to drop the car lower to achieve more camber Im worried I will hit the metal lip of the rim on my actually painted fender, unless I can get it to camber enough to clear the fender which I doubt it.
I guess I could always run smaller spacers front and rear if I HAVE TO but what fun is that
 

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I'd rather have "weak" final offsets, than Mexi flush. That is just me though.

Here is my test fit of 18x9.5 square Style 37's on my car. No spacers up front, 10mm spacers out back. Fenders are rolled front and back, -3.1 degrees of camber front and back. Front will be just fine. Rear might need either more negative camber, or slight pull to the fenders. And I'm pretty low as well.

So, to answer the OP's original post, rolled fenders, stretched tires, and negative camber is what you need to get them to fit flush.





 

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The only way to fit Style 37's on a non-M E46 is a combination of stretched tires (245/40's are way to wide/tall), negative camber, and rolled fenders. It is just physics.

Eric W... any way to camber those wheels in? That is a lot of "Mexi" poke. And, "only" 7mm is 1/4" further out. That much poke, to me, looks like it doesn't fit.
****...im sellin then
 

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You don't need anything but suspension and m pars. Unless your genders are rolled and stretched heavily, you'll have hella mexi poke. Unless you have camber arms and are trying to tuck, the wheels have almost perfect fitment and springs or coilovers will give you just enough negative camber. In the back you need a 235/35 and the 215/35 in the front.
 

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You don't need anything but suspension and m pars. Unless your genders are rolled and stretched heavily, you'll have hella mexi poke. Unless you have camber arms and are trying to tuck, the wheels have almost perfect fitment and springs or coilovers will give you just enough negative camber. In the back you need a 235/35 and the 215/35 in the front.
I know you're new here & want to jump in, but when giving out advice you need to give solid/good advice.

A 215/35-18 & a 215/35-18 are Completely the wrong tire sizes for an E46 chassis, not to mention being unsafe.



Rob43


PS, when bumping a 3 1/2 year old thread, try to bump it for a good reason.
 

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I know you're new here & want to jump in, but when giving out advice you need to give solid/good advice.

A 215/35-18 & a 215/35-18 are Completely the wrong tire sizes for an E46 chassis, not to mention being unsafe.



Rob43


PS, when bumping a 3 1/2 year old thread, try to bump it for a good reason.
Digging this up just because your reply is just so out of pocket. The guy actually gave you a less aggressive tire size setup than I run. 215/35/18x8 and 225/35/18x9.5 rear all day long. I don't daily this but I do drift on this setup and no problems on M pars with de beading. Stop living up to the Bimmer guy deuche bag replies.
 
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