BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sup 46 fam?!
Has anyone encountered trouble installing their e-brake cables?

My issue initially was getting them out during a subframe bushing n restoration refresh(overcame-by brute force).

Now the real problem is getting the new ones thru the allotted holes in the sub frame.

Cable heads refuse to go through. I tried to ream the holes out, to clear them, after removing the old ones. I tried to see if I could reroute them over or around the sub to the hubs cause I got fed tf up trying to force the new cables through. It seems as if the holes are clear. Like I said I reamed the holes with a long thin screwdriver from both sides. I don’t see any obstructions. Wtf? Am I going nuts?

Any tips or tricks?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Weird.... Any luck using copious amounts of grease and/or spray silicone? (Wet variety) There are two kinds.
Alternative routing will see the cables too short.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Weird.... Any luck using copious amounts of grease and/or spray silicone? (Wet variety) There are two kinds.
Alternative routing will see the cables too short.
I did use silicone and pb blaster


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Can you first get a thin stiff wire through? Start with something smaller and easier as a pilot and maybe tie a string to the EB cable to thread it through?
That sounds like a great route to go. I can get a wire thru I I had long screw driver I bent to clean/ream it out and it went thru with no issues. I’m gonna try that, prob next week after the holiday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2004 330CI ZHP
Joined
·
140 Posts
I went through this a few weeks ago. If your car is in the rust belt, then the hole on the subframe that the cables go through rust, which makes it too small to get the new cables through. An excerpt from my project thread on my solution is below:

Here is where things started going downhill. Spent 1.5 hours getting the driver’s side cable out – getting the ends out from the body tube and upright were not too bad, but the plastic sleeve on the cable was really seized into the subframe:



Pulled as hard as I could, tried levering it out with vicegrips and channellocks, and bit by bit the cable sheathing slipped through. But eventually it got stuck, so I cut it in half, and after more wrestling was left with just the plastic sleeve in the subframe. After more pulling it eventually came out:





The passenger’s side was even worse, that took 2.5 hours to get out. The cable broke in multiple places as I kept pulling, and was more seized than the other side:



The part of the plastic sleeve that sticks out of the subframe got so mangled, so I had to flush-cut it with the subframe. Then I hammered in a pick between the subframe hole and the plastic sleeve in multiple places to collapse it and eventually got it out:







The issues didn’t stop there. Getting the cables in required some sanding of the metal bushing that goes into the body tube by the lever. Driver’s side just needed a bit of sanding, passenger’s side was sanded so much that I couldn’t go more, and it still wouldn’t go in. Tried a bunch of things but in short, I cut the new bushing off, drilled out the old bushing such that the lever-end of the cable could go through, then stuck that on the cable after it was passed through the subframe:









Don’t worry, after the above pic was taken, I used some self-vulcanizing rubber tape to keep the cable on the old bushing, and seal the exposed metal sheathing.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top