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The Dynavin threads are a little out of hand so I decided to make a new thread so everybody doesn't have to read through 100 pages of BS to get the info they are looking for, as we get new info I will add to and edit this post so all the dynavin knowledge can be accessed here.

I would like to keep this thread factual and helpful, please keep unrelated discussions and opinions in the other three threads.

Please read EVERYTHING before you ask a question, pretty much everything has been answered at some point and I will do my best to put it all in this thread.

The moderator from Dynavins forum is also putting together a forum here:


Check it out for tips, tricks, hacks, and info.

I am an installer, not full time, i run a small family business that in part sells auto parts and accessories including mobile electronics. I do the installs, Ive been doing a couple a week for 15 years so Ive done.....a lot..... I am an authorized Pioneer Electronics dealer so most of my experience relevant to the Dynavin is with the AVIC line of Pioneer units. I also have owned two cars with factory nav, a 2006 acura and a 2007 lexus, so understand where I am coming from, Ive used quite a few systems like this.

Be careful who you buy from!!! Stick to known forum sponsors!!!



Due to this post, my involvement in the Dynavin community, and the scary situations in the above links I have decided to become a Dynavin dealer. You can now get a Dynavin from me along with all the help and advice you might need.....DYNAVIN SOLUTIONS.... PM me for details, look for me in the sponsor forum, or click the link in my sig. Yes....I sold out! :D:D:D

Im not going to go into every step of the install here, there are existing DIYs that cover everything you need to know and more about taking your dash apart, running wires, hooking up amps, ipods, etc.... im just going to try to stick to the dyanavin specific stuff here.

Here is what comes in the box, nothing you haven't seen before on the other threads:

But this you haven't seen, this should give you a good idea of how the wiring is laid out:

Here is what I'm starting with:

Regular business HU, no HK, but it doesnt matter, everything here applies to the HK system as well, I had the parrot bluetooth running off the steering wheel buttons and an ipod adapter. Its all coming out.

I also have a 4 channel amp, front two channels running the front speakers and the rear two channels running a sub, the signal was being delivered via the factory amp input wires, cut and spliced onto RCA connectors and fed into an EQ and then into the amp.

The rear speakers are stock and still running off the factory amp although I am not using them and have the fader on the HU faded all the way to the front.

look here to do a system like this, awesome write up on amp install using the factory head unit:


So I took everything apart and took a look at what I was in for:

Take note here that the wiring for the HVAC controls just drops down to the new location for the controls, it only has to move a few inches and there is plenty of slack. I have not yet ordered the HVAC control relocation part but the control fits the old part ok, I used a little bit of 3/8" black weatherstrip foam to support it and hold it in place, it wedges in there pretty tight and looks fine, we will see how it works out. Ignore the mess of wires on the right, thats my parrot blutooth kit, its gone now.

This is important, right in the middle of this picture you can see a white plastic arm that moves a black plastic lever in the airbox, some part of the HVAC system, this part ends up directly below the back of the dynavin unit, be careful that you dont get any wires hung up on this or you are asking for big trouble. I will double check it later from the glovebox side

Next I put the GPS receiver right behind the unit on the metal dash frame, right below the vent ducts, it is magnetic and will stick right there, reception here is good.

So then I plugged everything into the factory wiring:

Plugged in the dynavin and put it in the dash, other people have been complaining that there isnt much room in there....they are correct. There is a good amount of space on the left side of the unit, thats where my harness and extra wire ended up. All of the AV connections ended up on top of the dynanvin, there is NO space behind or below the unit:

You can see an RCA cable and a "headphone plug" plugged into the aux in jacks for later use if I want to plug in anything to the aux in or you can run a a/v cable and use the video input as well.....more on that later....

I put all the unused plugs in a plastic bag both to protect them and to keep them from accidentally touching the chassis of the dynavin and causing any weird problems.

Shoved the dynavin in...took a couple tries to get all the wires out of the way and everything where I wanted it. Put the vents back in, and put 2 screws back in to hold everything where it belongs, here you might want to make sure everything is exactly where you want it before you tighten up the screws, the dyanvin fits very well but there is a little wiggle room and I wanted to make sure my gaps were even all the way around.

Now back to that plastic arm and lever....I had my glove compartment out to remove my old bluetooth kit so I stuck my head in there to verify that nothing was binding up the lever and arm. There was a wire back there in this pic, a little too close, I moved it.

I ran the mic, ipod cable, and aux in to where they belonged, you can put them wherever you want, in my case i put the plugs in my euro tray and the mic above the rearview mirror in the factory location. Ran the RCA cable to the trunk, I ran the rca so I could do a little experimenting using the "speaker outputs" vs.the rca outputs.

back in one piece:

I turned it on, my amp gain was too high and I was getting some noise, I expected this considering all the past noise problems that other users were experiencing.

YOU MAY NEED TO USE A LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER if you are going to use this unit with the factory system, see the third post in this thread for more info on the LOC. Dynavin is working on a harness that has one integrated into it to fix the noise issues but until that happens just expect that you may need to add a LOC.

I however had gain controls on my amp so I turned them down and all the nasty noises went away....well except for that horrible "beep" every time i hit a button, I found the menu to turn that off, much better.

The radio bleed was BARELY there with the amp gains up, once I turned them down to a correct level it was gone. I set my amp gain so that the hiss was very slight, cant hear it with the car running, and this made "very loud volume" correspond to about 30 on the dynavins 0-40 scale, just about right.

Remember now that I had my rear speakers hooked up to the factory amp.....well they were still problimatic, I was getting a nasty turn on thump with them and thier volume was not well matched to my aftermarket components up front. I may put a LOC on them in the future to better match them up and quiet down the noise problems but for now I just unplugged the factory amp since I am not using the rear speakers anyway.

Now I ran into a problem.....the dynavin would distort heavily when I turned it over 30 on a loud song, remember that I was still using the factory signal wires, so either the dynavin's built in amp was clipping pretty bad or it was overdriving my eq. In either case this may not be the situation for those of you running the factory amp (chime in guys) but in my case the dynavin didnt like my EQ very much so I tried switching over to that RCA that I had ran.

the line level RCAs work great, as far as I can tell with just my ears the dynavin will go to max volume on the RCA outputs clean. This gave my system significantly more available volume than I had with the BMW headunit. Subjectively I would say it is 30%+ louder without any audible distortion. Sweet!

Now it was sounding good and running so here is my assessment as of now, I will edit this if any of these things change:

It turns on very fast, only a couple seconds and its up and running, MUCH MUCH MUCH faster to start up than the pioneer units that I install regularly and also much faster than my oem NAVs in my acura and lexus.

The touch screen is also very good, the most responsive I have seen on a device like this. Never have to hit a "button" twice and it never seems to "hang up" after a press, very good.

Overall the audio portion works pretty good, the radio is good, although the tuning is very slow .05 increments takes forever but the seek works fine, just use it instead.

DVD looks and sounds good, responsive controls, works as expected.

Bluetooth paired to my iphone 3GS no problem and the blutooth audio works fine (quality is of course limited), both audio and phone connect VERY fast, only a couple seconds to connect. I was suprised to find that the play/pause button worked with the bluetooth audio, so I can be listening to a podcast with my iphone in my pocket, leave the car, come back and press play and pick up right where I left off. Very nice. I also stream sirius to my iphone using the sirius app or "pocket tunes" app. Works as a nice alternative to sat radio. The phone book doesnt work well with the iphone, the formatting is all jumbled up, however it does display recent/missed/dialed/recieved call activity correctly from the phone so I can kind of use that as a workaround for my common numbers. Im sure your results may vary depending on the phone.

There has been a lot of controversy about the knobs. Now that I have seen this thing in person I can say that they look good, they are "black chrome" and look petty much black most of the time. I looked them over pretty close and would say they definitely cannot be removed without at least taking the front of the unit off. Not worth it for me, they look fine the way they are, but to each his own.

Now some bad stuff. I hooked up my fist gen 32GB ipod touch and it didnt work, it would play a second or two and restart, controls would not respond. Plugged in my iphone, it worked fine, plugged in a nano, it worked fine, I did a full restore on the touch, with about half the music synced I tested it and it worked, then I synced the rest...didnt work. I saw this mentioned on one of the threads, Ill work on this some more and edit this post when I figure it out.

Next problem, Delmarco, you are going to love this......The glare on this thing is insane! The screen is fairly reflective but the big problem is that it is aimed right at the rear window. This will of course vary depending on your seating position and your hight (I am 6") but for me the angles are terrible. Maybe ill put some 5% tint on the back window.......maybe I will just paint my rear window black:str8pimpi, that should take care of it.

(See post number three in this thread for a Glare Fix that I came up with that might help some of you.)

I put the camera right in front of my eyes so this is what I see, uuuggghhhh

interestingly however for how glossy the screen is, no fingerprints!!??

After playing around with all the audio settings I found that a lot of the audio controls that appear on screen do not seem to do anything. There is an audio settings menu that should allow you to adjust the EQ center frequency and Q values but these adjustments didnt seem to make any audible difference. Also when you go into the EQ menu you see this

All of this works fine except again the "middle" setting does not seem to do anything.

I suspected that the GUI was showing things that the hardware/firmware didnt support and contacted Dynavin to inqure about this. They responded that I was correct, thier firmware did not support the more advanced audio adjustments and that they would remove those non supported features from the firmware. This isnt really a deal killer as most people dont know what "Q" is anyway, forget about how to use it, but it is sloppy and it needs to be cleaned up in the user interface.

Final problem is a small one but its there and its a noise problem, all the other noises were cleaned up by proper gain matching but there is a buzz when the headlights are on and the dashlight dimmer is set to a dim position, it is worse when the volume is set to "0" or when changing sources. If the volume is up even one notch it becomes almost inaudible or if the dashlights are set to the brigher side of their adjustment. Not a deal killer but not right either.

The nav portion is good, the large font thing on the street names is kind of odd but is better on some of the zoom/angle settings. I also find it odd that I cant seem to make it display the direction of travel as "up" in 2D mode. I need to play around with this part some more to see if I can find settings to work a couple of the kinks like that out. Overall I would say that the Nav is on par or better than most of the other OEM or aftermarket ones I have used.

Map screens (iGo 8)

Looking for lunch....POI screen

the igo software is easy to modify and there is a large online community dedicated to customizing and tweaking it. Since the igo nav system is on the micro sd card in the front of they dyanavin it is easy to take out, stick it in your computer and HACK it. Im not going to go into the details here but I googled it and found some skins and some different color schemes, played around with it, and found some some stuff that I really liked, much better looking, cleaner, more adjustable, even easier to use. Here is what the skin I am using now looks like:

the skin you see here is from:

And the color scemes I found here, I liked the stuff by "Xerses"

Update: Im now running a customized 800x480 high res version of igo8.3, It looks amazing, it works amazing. It wasnt easy as I am not a computer programmer but i was able to figure it out (with a little help), spend some time here if you want to make it happen: http://dynavin.freeforums.org

Check out the size of the fonts (yes I can see them while driving, pic quality here limited due to iphone pic while driving).....800x480.....nice!

And the windows interface, you wont see this stuff unless you go looking for it.

windows media player

The only downside to the nice igo setup is that the integration between the "dynavin" portion of the unit and the igo nav/windows portion isnt very good, going back and forth is fast and works great, its just that they look, sound, and control like two completely different devices (of course they would, the windows and igo software has nothing to do with dynavin). Unfortunately it makes the whole experience seem a bit half baked. There are some custom skins in the works for the dynavin to better match and integrate the unit to look more polished and consistent. Stay tuned...

The ipod interface itself is kind of hit and miss, while it does display all the song info on screen and its a lot better than an ipod adapter with a business cd but I dont think it is going to cut it for me. It allows you to sort by artist, album .....etc....but say you select "artist"....it will just show an alphabetical list of songs by that artist, they wont be split into albums the way they are on the ipod itself.

I have a ton of music on my ipod and I like to sort and search by artist>album>song and I cant do that with the way this interface works. To be fair, I tried it with my wifes 8GB nano and it worked pretty good, the smaller library made it much more useable. So how well it works will depend on each persons individual circumstances.

BUT....I did find that if you put it in ipod video mode (icon is on the lower right, below the "folder" icon) the unit reverts to ipod control and you can then use your ipod to navigate your library.

As far as getting ipod video to work, doesnt look like it does, when in ipod video mode the screen just shows the "BMW roundel"

BUT you can use the A/V inputs to run video off your ipod. I used an ipod>A/V plug hooked up to the aux in. You have to control it from the ipod obviously but it works.


The USB plug works very well, the front plug and the back plug are for the same USB interface, it just has two plugs. Its what I wanted the ipod interface to be, It will navigate the files structure of the drive you plug into it so if you structure your drive artist>album>song, thats what you will see on the display. At first it wasnt seeing my songs but it turns out my music library is in M4a format (itunes default) and the dynavin like many devices wont play those files. If you convert your songs to mp3 they will work fine.....im in the process right now of converting 50GB of music to mp3......uuuuggghhhh.

I have run into one issue here however, The dynavin does not seem to support more than 196 folders on the usb, if I add more than that it shows the "artist" folder but not the "album" folders. Im still looking for confirmation from other users that this is a limitation and not something isolated to my setup, it seems like a low number for a hardware limitation so we will see what others find.

I got this plug from pac audio and decided to do a nice flush mounted usb in the eurotray.



By request, here is a look at some of the different screens:

the source selection screen

The basic user interface for most of the sources (this is the ipod screen but they pretty much all look like this.

The generic background (very nice, although I doubt it has BMW's approval!)

pic of the finished install.....well lit.....no techno music

Some people have PM me wanting me to rate it, give it a score......so, here you go


Its good, not perfect but it has a lot of potential left in it. Out of the box I give it a 6/10, after doing some things to reduce the glare problem and dialing things in with the settings and igo hacks, I give it a 7/10. With a firmware update to refine and clean things up a bit it could be an 8/10. At this point I am happy, money well spent.

to be continued...

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Q/A put together by Blue442 (from the TR_MS3 thread) and edited by jeffb325

If you see anything here that needs to be edited let me know and I will change it.

Q: Do you have full ipod control correct?
A: mostly, see the above post for detail.

Q: Does it has tv reception?
A: Yes. You'll need to grab an antenna off ebay or such. Tuner is built in though. Not sure if it will work in the USA on the new digital standard.

Q:dvd's play no problem when you are driving?
A:Yes. You have to ground the parking brake wire, just like on any other DVD setup. It even tells you how to in the instructions.

Q: Do Navi maps work fine when ipod or something else is playing?
A: Yes

Q: Do Album cover's of the songs show up on the screen when in iPod mode?
A: No, it does not

Q: What Maps are included?
A: USA and Canada, iGo map updates can be purchased online for about $50

Q: Do Steering Wheel controls work?
A: Steering wheel controls work for radio/dvd/ipod/cd. Newer versions have steering wheel control for Bluetooth although older units can be updated by replacing the old steering wheeel control interface with the new one from dynavin.

Q: Is the CD Changer Compatible?
A: No, it is not.

Q: Can you play Ipod Video?
A: Yes but the actual ipod connection that comes with the unit does not seem to support it. You can use a ipod>A/V plug and connect it to the AUX IN to use ipod for video.

Q: How many Aux ports are there?
A: unit has 2 aux in ports. One standard A/V (yellow, red, white RCAs) and one "DVD USB" Not sure what that one is ....USB Hard drive???? Flash Drive????

Q: Where is the Mic
A: The unit comes with a built in mic on the unit (lower left corner) and a wired external mic. There's plenty of wire to mount it in the factory location. The mic just uses a standard 3.5mm jack.

Q: How does Bluetooth work?
A: Bluetooth is controlled 3 ways.

You dial on the phone and once you hit send, the stereo picks it up and switches over to the bluetooth screen on the unit.
You touch the screen and return to the home screen and then click bluetooth. Then you use the dial pad on screen or use the phonebook feature on the screen.
You press the large button in the lower right corner of the unit. It takes you to the bluetooth screen. Then you use the dial pad on screen or use the phonebook feature on the screen.

Q: Does Satelite Radio work?
A: If you have a tuner that uses RCA and you can pluig it into the AUX in but there is no integrated support for sat radio.

Q: Where is the ipod connector located?
A:in the back or the front? in the back, but it comes with a cable so you can place it where you want

Q: Does this required the use of the AC Relocation Kit?
A: Yes, you can get it from tischer or eurospec or pelicanparts, see the bottom of this page for details:


Q: Does this require cutting into the AC Ductwork?
A: No

Q: Do i need to use DICE with this system?
A: No

Q: Would the unit allow for firmware upgrades if the unit had bugs, and Dynavin released updates?
A: Yep. They said that they will periodically release firmware updates that can be loaded on a USB memory stick or on the microSD card and installed.

Q: Can you play avi/divx files off of the sd card or memory stick as well?
A: Yes, off the memory stick. Have not tested with SD card.

Q: Is it possible to get "names" on the radio channels, or does it just display the frequency?
A: Yes, RDS data is available but only with a workaround as US-RDS data is technincly not supported. In the radio settings menu you will need to set "radio region" to "europe" and turn RDS on and turn "tune time" off or your clock will get screwed up from the stations sending inacurate RDS time data. This allows the RDS data to be displayed regardless of region.

Q: how does the ipod integration work. will i be able to swich songs on the steering wheel?
A: Yes, see the above post for details.

Q: Does BMW Assist continue to function or will we loose that functionality?
A: No idea. I don't have BMW assist to test.

Q: Is it possible to make the built in microphone work with this unit?
A: Anything's possible. The unit uses a standard 3.5mm jack, so if you can wire the stock mic to a plug like that, then it should work.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

Compiled from the troubleshooting thread, pages 3-6. Read the original thread if you need any more info than this.

Any adjustable LOC with wired inputs AND outputs should work, peripheral has one that I use all the time but they just got bought out by PAC....this one is the right PAC LOC but just about any WIRED one will work.


Any car audio shop should have these or something similar in stock, a cheap one should work just fine, they should cost WAY less than $50.

Basically to install this it needs to be spliced in line into the dynavin wire harness on the speaker outputs. Cut the speaker wires and splice the LOC in line. All the wires are color coded, it is pretty self explanatory but you should properly splice these wires with either butt/crimp connectors or solder, No wire nuts and absolutely NO tying the wires together and wrapping with tape!

The LOC will have 4 level adjusters, one for each channel, the idea is to turn DOWN these adjustments some amount reducing the level of signal going to your factory amp, this will reduce the background noise getting to your amp. Then you will turn UP the volume on the dynavin further than before to make the same audible volume, this makes the background noise a smaller portion of the overall signal going to your amp...effectively increasing the signal to noise ratio of the system.

If you are able to max out the dynavin's volume without the sound being VERY loud, turn the LOC adjustments up some. The goal is to have "VERY LOUD" correspond to around 30-35+/- on the dynavins volume scale. If you listen to your stereo at a lower volume regularly you could also turn down the LOC even more, reducing the noise even more, but at the expense of max volume.

here is the result:

I have installed a line ouput converter(loc) on my Dynavin e46 headunit. And much to my suprise, IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

I was waiting on the PAC oem2 in the mail and ran out of patience. I went down to my local installer and told him my situation and he gave me a 4 channel line level converter made by Neucleus(nc-sc400t). I would probably go with the PAC loc as it has adjustments for line level and the neucleus does not. It said in the Neucleus instructions that this unit is made for Harmon Kardon system. The best part is you can pick a loc up online for way under $50!!!

I no longer have hiss or radio interference in the background. This Definetely makes this dynavin sooo much better. I can also use other settings on the eq such as rock,pop,jazz etc. and I don't get any popping or hiss. It is a very simple install as you Just install it inline on your Dynavin harness speaker outputs. The worst part is you have more wires to shove into the dash.

Many thanks to jeff325 as he is the one who suggested the LOC!!!!:bow:

This is what I originaly theorized on why this problem was happening:
By the way, before everyone starts ripping dynavin let me explain what I think is going on here. First off, The OEM headunit outputs a high level speaker output to the amp not a low line level output. I think this is for universal compatibility, it can drive speakers or the amp and I think the "amp" may be more of a powered crossover than a traditional amplifier.

Dynavin is selling these units globally and I would bet that E46s sold overseas can be had without the "amp" that the US cars have. In these cars the higher power of the dynavin would be an asset, but in our cars with our amps its a bit of a liability. Dynavin probably didnt realize the potential problem.

I guess more isnt always better.
Ive been in contact with dynavin recently helping them to figure this problem out and they have confirmed that it is exactly what the problem is. After I explained the issue to them they now know what it is and why it is happening.

They are now working to produce a new harness for use in factory amplified cars that has a LOC built into it, it should (and better!) solve the problem and will be compatible with the older units so all you will have to do is swap out the harness, plug and play. If this will be free of charge I do not know.

Running the dynavin off RCA's
On a related note I tried running the factory amp off the RCA outputs of the Dynavin. This does work and sounds very good .......BUT......the max volume is not very high with this configuration. With the Dynavin maxed out at 40 the audible volume is only moderately loud. On a quiet song or radio station or DVD I suspect the volume would not be sufficient. It might be worth a try for some of you though. Just cut the speaker wires in the harness and splice on RCA ends, insulate the unused wires and plug your new RCAs into the headunit.

(for some people at least)

(your results may vary depending on your seating postion, hight , and interior color, but this worked for me)

I was looking at some of the pics from the other threads and I got an idea. Member mass03m3 had reinstalled his vents in the wrong order causing the vent bracket to be behind the dynavin bracket and causing the dynavin to be pitched downward slightly. In his pics he was getting reflections of his interior while I was getting reflections of my back window. What if I could do the same (but install the vents corrctly) and pitch the dynavin down a couple of degrees so it was no longer pointed at the rear window.

The back of the dynavin unit sits on top of the air box so I took out the unit and put a small piece of folded cardboard under the back of it (be carefull to keep it away from the arm and lever noted earlier), this lifted the back of the dynavin about 1/4". Then with a little tweaking (had to bend the dynavin brackets a bit at the screw holes to get the vent fit right) and a little trial and error I got the whole thing to go back together pretty cleanly. Now I get reflections of my black seats instead of the bright sky. MUCH BETTER!!!

You can see in these pics that I just get the window reflection in the very top left edge now instead of the entire top half of the screen.

This of course causes the dynavins fit to be slightly less than perfect but you really have to be looking for it to see the change in angle, ill take the slightly sloppy fit over the glare problem for sure.

At this point I would not reccomend an anti glare screen, after playing with a couple nushield dayvue films and doing the side by side comparisons I have come to the conclusion that the screen protector makes things worse. I am no longer using one but with the screen pitched down a bit my visibility is good. Im not saying its a bad product, it just isnt the right product for the job in this case.

I think this pic shows everything you need to know:


705 Posts

Thanks to coopV2 for this writeup!

Here is my efforts and thoughts to install a rear view camera in an E46 328ci.
FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANTLY... Is your choice of camera. DO NOT BELIEVE The sellers that say their camera fits E46.
none that I seen so far, that are designed to replace the number plate light, will be a direct plug and play. especially the large box type in the picture below on the left side. this camera will probably fit E30, E36, E39, and others that have a larger cavity above the light.

You can see the camera on the right is much shallower on the back, This is what you want.

And this is why.....The larger camera below, is not going to squeeze into that small space.

So first off, pop the trunk, remove the liner, undo the trunk lip mounting screws T20 torx bit.
pull out the cable for the light and trunk release button, until you reveal the connector.
and unplug. Remove the 2 tiny Philips head screws on the back surface, (watch for the 2 small o-rings under them.)

Next, using a small screw driver and starting at one end, start gently prying back the retaining tabs on the outer painted cover. REMEMBER all the plastic is sun baked and brittle.

carefully slide out the cover. now you can attempt to remove the backing plate.

You will see in the next few pictures what it looks like apart. there is a large barb clip at each end of the backing plate (I broke both) as they are brittle. the whole plate has a sealed silicon gasket.
As you pry off that backing plate try to slide the small screw driver along the surface to cleanly separate that gasket, leaving it attacked to one side. (as it will stretch if removed and increase in size, making it hard to refit)

Here is the side shot with the light removed and camera in place, you can see it will not fit. and a hole will need to be cut to make space. some creative filing will be needed to get the camera retaining clips to grip the thick plastic.

This is what the new hole looks like up close.just enough space for the painted cover not to interfere.

There are 3 main wires on the trunk harness.... BROWN = ground. GRAY/brown stripe = +power. and GRAY/yellow stripe = Trunk trigger. There is a 4th wire BROWN/red stripe, in the housing that links power to the second light.
Explanation... power comes in via the gray/brown wire, to the light. Brown/red crosses to the second light. and brown returns to ground. the trunk release wire... gray/yellow connects to the brown ground wire for a CANBUS signal to release the catch. it is not 12v connected.
SO... The new camera has its own light to replace the one removed.
and the SMD LED light wires are connected as follows.. RED to GRAY/brown. BLACK to the conjoined BROWN/red & BROWN... Ground return. **** thats confusing. Sorry. It may have been easier to tear out the other light first, ah well, never mind.

OK on with the show.. Above is the backing plate, with a small cut removed to allow the return AV cable an exit. there is no room to run it back thru the main cable area. cut the slot, reattach the backing plate, gasket, screws with o-rings, and painted cover....start at one end first, like the earlier photo of the removal.

line up your cable to some tape on the trunk, mark a center for the hole you have to drill. and using a panel steel or step drill, make a hole about 15mm dia for the plugs and connectors

Finished hole, Drill, and them bulky connectors, some cameras may have smaller plugs. if you are keen you could cut them off and fit new ones, but that seemed like more work.
Then i taped over the hole and added a large blob of silicon to seal it from the elements.

Next I popped off all 3 trunk compartment seals. fed thru a stainless steel pull wire, and from inside the trunk I taped the yellow AV connector to the wire, (apply tape to the pull wire first, to aid grip)
Then i sprayed WD40 or similar down the convoluted rubber boot, greased up the bulky electrical tape wrapped AV connector, and carefully tugged and massaged it through. If it comes apart the lube will make it hard to re tape effectively. so take care, it will fit.

Ok, by now you have got the hard part done, next is the reverse light activation. from the red connector of the camera harness, you should have a Black and Red wire. Remove the right side trunk light. Reverse light is the top globe (on most). There is a 3 wire harness. you will need to pry off the white retaining clip to access the barbs on the connectors, gently push them in while pulling on the cable to remove... both the BROWN and BLUE/yellow wires.

I use electronics liquid flux applied to all wires prior to soldering, regardless. this aids in quick adhesion of the solder, without over heating the wires. (you can see the little alligator clips attached to a steel wire in earlier shots) helps hold 2 wires in place. So...slip on some heat shrink tube first. solder Black to brown. and red to Blue/Yellow. Heat shrink, refit and your done.

stealth camera installed.

Yeh, she works. You will need to find a power source for the wire from you DYNAVIN, that will connect to +positive activation when the car is put in Reverse, IE... wire from the curb side mirror, or the BLUE/yellow wire to the rear backup light.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As I said in the post I used some self adhesive 3/8 weatherstriping foam to help "wedge" it in there. It is very tight, not going anywhere. Looks ok, Im going to mess around with it some more, see if I can get it to sit more like the relocation kit has it.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am just concerned with the longevity of the adhesive stuff. Fresno gets really hot in summer and the heat will do it real good. LOL
its not an issue, the foam is tightly surrounding the HVAC unit, the adhesive just held it where I had placed it while I was pushing it into place....the whole thing is "pressed" into place, very tight fit, nothing is going anywhere.

Jeff ,
Did you notice if your ipod is charging while hooked to the Dynavin? Mine does not seem to be charging now.
The nano and the touch are charging the iphone is not.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
is this truly just a plug and play install for a completely factory HK set up? I want to pull out my old head unit, unplug and install this one, plug it in and be done.

Other than no satellite radio, what else can I expect when I turn it on? radio bleed-thru? static with dashboard lights on? no backlighting on the dynavin buttons at night? these are all things I've read and am just concerned. .
mostly plug and play except for the LOC situation that is detailed above.

The buttons ARE LIT.

I am finding that the default settings for almost everything are kind of wrong. As I am changing all the settings I am finding I like the unit much better. Plan on spending some time going through every menu and changing the settings to better suit you.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
unfortunately it is the one item in the first pic of my original post that I didnt take out of the plastic bag.....its now installed the factory location so i cant take a pic of it.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Yeah Jeff,
Is there a clean seamless solution to some sort of integrated Sirius for those of us without iPhones?
Will the Dynavin E46 work with an Integrated Universal Sirius Receiver?

like this one:

I'm asking because you work with other aftermarket units and I do know many Pioneer and Kenwood 2 DIN Nav Units come with their own Sirius Receiver attachment modules that either connect from under the seat or inside the trunk.

Did anyone hear if future units will be Sirius XM compatible or have Integrated Sirius Receivers?[/QUOTE]

I dont see any way that sirius could be integrated into the unit in any way without dynavin and sirus' support....and I really doubt that is going to happen, plus I dont really think that any of the dynavins hardware is configured for that kind of thing. I could be wrong but I doubt it, remember sat radio is a US product and dynavin isnt very .....knowlegable....about the US market. Your best bet is to just get a external tuner and do a nice clean ashtray install and run it into the aux in.

The SSC1 unit that you noted above is in fact the one that I now use with all the pioneer head units but it requires the use of a separate interface to adapt from the SSC1's plug to the pioneer Pbus system. Pioneer used to make their own tuners but a few years ago sirius pretty much stopped supporting any aftermarket tuners and "simplified" things by bringing it all "in house," making all the tuners the same, then it was up to the head unit manufactures to figure out how to make it work. I also am using the SSC1 in my lexus, it is connected through a OEM->sat radio interface as well and works very nicely with the factory nav system BUT the radio is already set up for it, it had XM stock so it is basicly a XM > Sirius translator. These type of systems require both an audio connection, a data connection, and a control connection. The dynavin does not have this so I dont think it is possible.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
and what aabout those of us with Blackberry's or other phones? iPhone's just don't work in my area and I just want the basic Sirius feed... No luck for us?
Does anyone know of any slimline, good outboard Sirius or XM recievers that you could hide in the ashtray and just run thru an aux in?
I had a "sirius one" before I canned it for the iphone streaming apps. It is very basic but it works, there are only a couple of sirius tuners these days. Check them out and see what you think.

Any chance you could get a hold of an external hard drive and see if itll detect it through the usb port?
Cant help you there, I seem to remember someone bringing this up in one of the other monster threads.....dont remember if anything came of it.

705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
I could see sirius support through the Windows CE interface, basically you would need the wince patch from this guy: http://www.flydigital.ro/wince/

then you'd need some sort of USB like this: Link

Plug that into a S50 - Sirius Receiver and that might work.

or have a look at this page: http://www.rush2112.net/

So long as you can get Windows to see the device you can make it happen.
A sirius usb link! Didnt know that existed. i stand corrected! Looks like it might be possible after all. Come on computer geniuses, make it happen.
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