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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finished my two ashtray mods this weekend, think it turned out well. :thumbup:

I ran the V1 concealed display to the ashtray where many ppl had it, wasn't too difficult and fits perfectly. The real project was installing my garage opener switch into the ashtray position, where the cigarette holder used to be. I used a round momentary switch from radio shack, which is almost an exact fit for the opening.

The garage door opener casing was cracked open and I soldered the connections which led to the momentary switch. The taped up IC board was put under the gearbox cover. Trial runs showed it had the same range as in free air.

Nice way to save $135 to pay for a factory UGO. The true payoff is knowing doing it yourself :). Let me know what you guys think.

<IMG SRC=http://www.employees.org/~amoeba/ashtray_switch_small.jpg></IMG>

<IMG SRC=http://www.employees.org/~amoeba/ashtray_switch_close.jpg></IMG>


<IMG SRC=http://www.employees.org/~amoeba/ashtray_switch_closed.jpg></IMG>
 

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That is really a cool trick you pulled off there. Good Job !
 

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///Andrew Alewine
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Oh my that is EXTREMELY sleek. Yes I agree, please post instructions. Mad props man.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll post the DIY details this weekend.

Total cost for this mod: $2.

Just need some extra electrical wires, your original garage opener, solder the connections together, then viola.

No cutting involved.
 

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On my S200 I had the opener hooked up to my high beams, so when I flashed the lights it was the same as a momentary switch. It works really sweet!!!
 

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I did the same V-1 install and it requires nothing other than the crimpers ($9.99 at Radio Shack) and some extra phone line tips ($3 or $4 for a package of like 6) and the 25ft black phone cord (forget the prices but at Radio shack too).

The ash tray has a little clear square on the left to let the light into the ashtray. It pops out, but is too small to feed the phone cord end. I am sure some people may Dremel it out, but I wanted to keep mine in its original condition so I cut the 25ft cord fed it into the ash tray and then re-crimped an end. The little clear plastic piece is in my BMW zippered manual holder.

I have my V-1 hardwired to the garage door openner wiring up above the mirror. I stuck the one end of the phone cord into the headliner from teh front windshield side, and plugged it into the connector supplied with your V-1 and its all up inside the headliner (I have no sunroof so I have the rectangular openning where my Universal opener is installed). I pushed the phone cord in the headliner to the passenger A pillar, and then just pushed it into the gap of the inside A pillar and windshield with a credit card until it met the dash. Then I pulled into the gap in the dash on the side of the dash with the passenger door open. You will see what I am talking about when you look there. I ran it under the dash (or carpet i forget) on the passenger side until you reach the center console.

Here I let the cord lay out and then fed it under the console side on the passenger side right across from the ashtray. I taped a zip tie on the end of the phone cord (the connector was cut off at this point) as the zip tie was a bit firmer and pushed it under the console side and easily found it with the ash tray out of the car.

Then I took the zip tie off, fed the wire into the ash tray through the little opening where the plastic clear piece used to be. I crimped a new phone cord end on. Took me a few tries as you have to have the wires on the opposite side of the way they are at the other end (this is in the V-1 manual also) and you will lose track of which side while running the wire. I suppose you could paint or make a mark before cutting the end off.

I then mounted the remote module (after plugging it in with my new wire crimped end) and used the little piece of velcro that Mike Valentine gives you with the V-1 (he does think of everything). Put the ash tray back in and I pulled the wire tigher but not to tight as I wanted to have some slack to pull the V-1 remote display out if need be. Then I tucked the wire under the console running up the side of the footwell and zipped tied the remaining wire and tucked it in under the dash or in the carpet (again I forgot where). Very simple.

The remote display is slightly blocked by my Steptronic when in park, but is unobstructed when in drive or Step mode.
 

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Most Genie remotes are 12V DC, So I soldered the contacts for the button to be always closed and found the (+) supply wire to the high beam bulb. I used that as a trigger for a relay. Then solder the (-) ground wire to the negative battery terminal in the remotes battery compartment and the switched (+) lead from the relay goes to the (+) terminal in the remote battery compartment. So effectively you bypass the switch in the remote and the only time it gets power is when the high beams are on. I weatherproofed the remote and put it the engine compartment of my S200. It worked great.

***Warning your garage door will open or close anytime you flash your lights or have the high beams on and it is in range, so pay attention!!!!!!!!!!****

BTW if your remote is other than twelve volts go to Rdio Shack and ask them for the resistor that steps voltage down.

If you do a search at www.s2ki.com on this mod there are better directions and a list of the needed materials.

If you find the wire for the high beams under the dash you will not need to weatherproof the remote, but for the best range of operaton put it in the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Interesting idea overloading the high beam. It must be hilarious for your neighbor to watch you flash your high beam everytime you come home. They probably think your garage is light sensor activated, hahaha.
 

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They do and I have not told them otherwise. They think it is not very secure that anyone can get into my house by flashing their lights at my Garage door.

Overloading ?? If you mean overloading hte circuit, that is the reason for the relay. It only takes a small amount of current to trigger the relay which uses a secondary power supply to power the remote.
 

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is baaaaaaaaaack...
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wow, this sounds awesome! i am definitley going to do the garage door opener thing... so cheap and stealth
 
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