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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with my dsc. The light will not go out. I got the car aligned and two days later the dsc light came on. I realized the wheel was not centered so I took it back and they straightened it out, but the light did't go out. I tried to re-calibrate the steering wheel angle sensor, but that did't work. I took it to the dealer on Tuesday and they said that the front right wheel speed sensor was bad. I bought a new one and after driving 75 mph for 48 miles, the light is still on. I also pulled the battery out overnight, but that didn't work either:banghead:. It is just the dsc light and no other lights. Any help would be great.

car is a 2002 m3
 

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From what I understand DSC is something that rarely breaks on its own. It is usually 1,000 other things that go wrong or break that set off the lamp other than the DSC module itself breaking.

-Alignment being off
-Tires being worn or having incorrect or off balanced pressure - may set off DSC until pressure is corrected, tires replaced and/or car is aligned
-Bad Alternator or Old Battery - will set off DSC sporadically for lengths of time
-Worn Suspension/Control Arms - may set off DSC until compenets are replaced and car aligned
- Hitting Pot holes - will set off DSC sporadically for lengths of time
-Snow/Ice driving on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Going up a wet hill on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Hitting a tight turn fast on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Braking hard on worn tires -- temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Speed sensor or ABS cables faulty or dirty or loose - will set off a long term DSC warning lamp until sensor is cleaned or replaced.
-Pressing the DSC button will also set off the yellow warning DSC lamp until the button is pressed again

All and more will set off a DSC yellow lamp

for me it was this:







 

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32 in the front 30 in the rear
uhmmmm on the 330i placard is states something like 30 - 35 front/35 - 45 rear depending on the tire size.

Most cars the pressure is less in the front and at least 5 - 10 levels increased for the rear. Especially for rear wheel drive since the rear wheel needs a firm grip on the road for launching off.

Check your manual or door placard for the suggested tire pressure. I've never put less than 30 in any of my front tires and never put less than 35 in my rear tires.
 

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Read the car again, because if the light is still on then the problem is still there.
 

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Read the car again, because if the light is still on then the problem is still there.
I'm wondering if it is just the sensors being dirty.

A few years ago back in 2005 my 1995 318i has the lamp set on and I, not knowing anthing, took my car to the BMW Of Manhattan dealership where I ended up getting raped because -

Visit 1 - My service guy tells me the front left sensor is faulty ($125 to diagnose + $300 for labor and parts). Got my car a few days later and 5 minutes after I drove it out of the dealership the lamp came right back on so I u-turned and took it back to them.

Visit 2 - After a day of having the car the service guy calls to tell me the right front sensor is faulty ($125 to daignose + $300 for parts and labor). I thought is was very shady so I went online I did some research whiles they were working on the car. This is how I found the BMW forums.

When I found out that you typically replace both the R and L sensor when the code reads that one of the front or rear sensor is faulty all hell broke loose.

I demanded to see a manager when I went back to pick my car up the next week (yes it took 'em a week to figure it out and replace the other side speed sensor).

They voided their second diagnosis fee and combined the labour time for just the replacement of the one sensor.

That was the last time I ever took my car to the dealership not "knowing" what I was going there for. They will tell you anything and as a business bent on maximizing profits they will waste your time so that you spend more money.

Like I said if the codes are reading "faulty sensors" then just assume in order of the most obviouse cause of the fault that...

A. The sensors are dirty and just needs to be cleaned - and this is almost always the case!

B. If after sensors are cleaned and the warning lamp is still on then replace them in pairs (front is a pair and rear is a pair) even if the codes verify it is L or R sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
From what I understand DSC is something that rarely breaks on its own. It is usually 1,000 other things that go wrong or break that set off the lamp other than the DSC module itself breaking.

-Alignment being off
-Tires being worn or having incorrect or off balanced pressure - may set off DSC until pressure is corrected, tires replaced and/or car is aligned
-Bad Alternator or Old Battery - will set off DSC sporadically for lengths of time
-Worn Suspension/Control Arms - may set off DSC until compenets are replaced and car aligned
- Hitting Pot holes - will set off DSC sporadically for lengths of time
-Snow/Ice driving on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Going up a wet hill on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Hitting a tight turn fast on worn tires - temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Braking hard on worn tires -- temporarily sets off DSC lamp
-Speed sensor or ABS cables faulty or dirty or loose - will set off a long term DSC warning lamp until sensor is cleaned or replaced.
-Pressing the DSC button will also set off the yellow warning DSC lamp until the button is pressed again

All and more will set off a DSC yellow lamp

Alignment is good.
tires are two weeks old
cleaned all abs sensors.
and the code is for just the front right
 

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Alignment is good.
tires are two weeks old
cleaned all abs sensors.
and the code is for just the front right
well then the issue at hand
has just surpassed my pay grade for free forum advisment. lol.

I would give it another week of driving (or around 100+ miles) to see if the lamp goes out on it's own before taking back to the dealership.
 

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Something is up with your Pedal Assembly.

Looking for thread now.

EDIT: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=845399

Also involved EML and 'BRAKE' Lamps to be lit.

EDIT 2: Check your Brake fluid level. If it's too low it will trigger the DSC Lamp.

If all else fails, you may need to get new DSC Modules. That's what happened when I first bought my car. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for it as part of my negotiation skills. Total bill from my BMW of Bel Air was $73X.XX.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks^^ i did all kinds of searching but they all where for dsc +abs/ brake light/ tire light. None for just dsc light
 

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Also, get your codes read from an Indy, the Dealer or if you're lucky to know someone who can pull them with software on their laptop, that should give you a good starting place.
 

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thanks^^ i did all kinds of searching but they all where for dsc +abs/ brake light/ tire light. None for just dsc light
r u sure you are not pushing the dsc button on your console?
 

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Something is up with your Pedal Assembly.

Looking for thread now.

EDIT: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=845399

Also involved EML and 'BRAKE' Lamps to be lit.

EDIT 2: Check your Brake fluid level. If it's too low it will trigger the DSC Lamp.

If all else fails, you may need to get new DSC Modules. That's what happened when I first bought my car. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for it as part of my negotiation skills. Total bill from my BMW of Bel Air was $73X.XX.
sorry but I just wasted 5 minutes in that thread. It is pretty pointless when every reply is arguing for a different personal opinion with no real conclusive solution.

I actually left that thread more confused than I was when I went in.

Ii understand that the discussion started with DSC then went on to reading emission codes then someone realized he had an M3 and that changed everything...

:tsk:
 

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sorry but I just wasted 5 minutes in that thread. It is pretty pointless when every reply is arguing for a different personal opinion with no real conclusive solution.

I actually left that thread more confused than I was when I went in.

Ii understand that the discussion started with DSC then went on to reading emission codes then someone realized he had an M3 and that changed everything...

:tsk:
EML is not for emissions codes.

I found Post 28 to be most helpful.

EDIT: But yeah...it's probably not it. Just the first thing that I remember regarding a possible answer to the problem.
 

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not to be an ass but i get in the car put key in key hole, push in clutch, turn key... the end and the light is on.. lol sorry :loco:

Uhm...sorry I had to ask. I worked in the IT department at my college for 4 years...and you are class of 2011....so I had to ask.

:rofl:
 

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its all good man
Let me know what the dealership says. The only good thing about BMW Dealerships is they insure and warranty all their work so taking the car back for a second opinion or diagnosis is usually on the house.
 
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