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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have any of you F/I guys used a dry sump kit/conversion?

How about the VAC upgraded S54 Oil pump?

Pros/Cons.. Overkill?
 

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58mm of Bliss
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Dry Sump:

No A/C, as the pump sits exactly where the compressor sits.

You need an oil distribution block, and because of this, and external oil filter housing. Filter changes will be a bit messy.

Oil tank will need to be mounted in the trunk, and because of this, you'll need to seal off the trunk compartment from the passenger compartment.(That's a bit of fabrication work, trust me) Why? #1, that oil tank will stink. #2 you'll need to keep scalding hot oil from going into the passenger cabin in the event of an incident.

You can look forward to 16 quart oil changes

Here's a fun one: How long do you think it takes to get the oil temps high enough to "get into it" safely. I know of people with 120v plug in dry sump tank heaters....

VAC's kit is basic. Plan to spend around $8k for all the components and lines

Maintenance: You get to check the overflow/breather tank a lot more often. Dry sumps "burp" oil a bit in there.

That gilmer drive belt that's running the pump will need to be changed a lot. Like every 3000miles to be safe. It comes off, or fails = bye bye engine.

Precautions: You'll need a big oil pressure light to help you with the above.

Do you have a problem that needs solving with a dry sump? Usually people that run one on an S54 also change over to the Motorsport crank and rod bearings. (Set up a little looser than stock because of the better oil flow)

That's all just forum fodder though: If you are serious about this, call Bimmerworld and talk to James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Dry Sump:

No A/C, as the pump sits exactly where the compressor sits.

You need an oil distribution block, and because of this, and external oil filter housing. Filter changes will be a bit messy.

Oil tank will need to be mounted in the trunk, and because of this, you'll need to seal off the trunk compartment from the passenger compartment.(That's a bit of fabrication work, trust me) Why? #1, that oil tank will stink. #2 you'll need to keep scalding hot oil from going into the passenger cabin in the event of an incident.

You can look forward to 16 quart oil changes

Here's a fun one: How long do you think it takes to get the oil temps high enough to "get into it" safely. I know of people with 120v plug in dry sump tank heaters....

VAC's kit is basic. Plan to spend around $8k for all the components and lines

Maintenance: You get to check the overflow/breather tank a lot more often. Dry sumps "burp" oil a bit in there.

That gilmer drive belt that's running the pump will need to be changed a lot. Like every 3000miles to be safe. It comes off, or fails = bye bye engine.

Precautions: You'll need a big oil pressure light to help you with the above.

Do you have a problem that needs solving with a dry sump? Usually people that run one on an S54 also change over to the Motorsport crank and rod bearings. (Set up a little looser than stock because of the better oil flow)

That's all just forum fodder though: If you are serious about this, call Bimmerworld and talk to James.
You sure know how to run a mans day don't you.

:)

J/k.. that information was extremely helpful.. I knew it would require more oil I just asumed the pan was deeper/larger and that it was a pretty internal setup. Didn't realize all the additional components needed.. thats to much work for me now. Maybe when it goes full track, but for the first year I'd like to enjoy it on the streets for the majority of the time.

Thanks!
 

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58mm of Bliss
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You sure know how to run a mans day don't you.

:)

J/k.. that information was extremely helpful.. I knew it would require more oil I just asumed the pan was deeper/larger and that it was a pretty internal setup. Didn't realize all the additional components needed.. thats to much work for me now. Maybe when it goes full track, but for the first year I'd like to enjoy it on the streets for the majority of the time.

Thanks!
Glad I could be of help.

All that aside, I've been very tempted to run a dry sump on my street car...but I've found a more reasonable solution. The M54 is it's own special animal though...the S54 isn't as temperamental.

Are you having an oil problem with your current engine? I'm not certain anyone really needs that....

Personally, if there is an oiling problem with an engine, the oil pump is usually the last place I would look to fix it. (Aside from if the oil pump destroying itself is the problem like the M54) If it's oil starvation, a new higher flowing pump is going to make the problem worse if there's no oil control in the pan. (Baffles required) If it's an oil pressure problem, I'd look at what the engine oil galleys and the cooling system is doing. Some people put too much oil cooler on an engine and pressure is reduced at the bearings. Keep in mind pump pressure is set at the pump output by the internal bypass valve. There's no regulator after the oil cooling and filtration circuit....so whatever pressure drop through those, the regulator can't do anything about. A good way to check this is to tap into the oil galley on the block, and monitor oil pressures before and after changes to the oil system. Another problem that people run into is excessive aeration of the oil. This is more RPM dependant than anything, and a quality crank scraper and baffle system can help. I know of a company that does this for OEMs...they are that good.

One of the best features of a dry sump system is that the remote oil tank gives the oil a break to de-aerate itself. It's literally like a bit of a chocolate foam when it's pulled out of the engine's oil pan....and giving it time to settle and "breath" helps with cooling as well as oiling. Think about it: The denser you can make the oil going through an oil cooler, the more efficient it will be cooled. Meaning: You can run a smaller oil cooler to do the same thing.

Ironically, most people that run dry sumps for the first time really quickly find out how much heat the system sheds. I know of race cars that run no oil cooler with a dry sump, as all the AN lines under the car seem to do a bit of work....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I went with the VAC Euro pump and the HPF Oil Cooler. I'm just hoping its a more reliable/efficent setup than 100% stock.
 

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I went with the VAC Euro pump and the HPF Oil Cooler. I'm just hoping its a more reliable/efficent setup than 100% stock.
how many oil starvation failures in boosted s54s due to low pressure/flow or heat? I mean, the regulation of oil temperature is positive. But, if that pump flows more volume, it's most likely going to cost you output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
how many oil starvation failures in boosted s54s due to low pressure/flow or heat? I mean, the regulation of oil temperature is positive. But, if that pump flows more volume, it's most likely going to cost you output.
I couldn't tell you, this is my first S54. I just asumed a better pump to go along with a larger cooler would be a safe bet.
 

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What are you looking to achieve by doing this?
 

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To my eye the stock S54 oil setup is pretty solid - front + rear pickup and the pan design is beautiful; there's no place the oil can hide. I've never heard of a pump failure either :dunno: What is the HPF car running?

fwiw a number of sources refer to the S54 setup as "semi-dry sump" :rofl:
 

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Road course car? I think +900hp is a little bit of overkill. Are you really going to be able to put all of that power down? Maybe downgrade to stage 1?
 

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I couldn't tell you, this is my first S54. I just asumed a better pump to go along with a larger cooler would be a safe bet.

Do research, this is a weak place for some things, like this. Regarding S54, I personally don't do much more than I need to own a M54. But there's plenty of race teams running larger oil coolers. See what they do. And keep in mind that what they do likely isnt necessary for your street car.
Call some of the people that campaign the S54
-Automatic Racing
-Bimmerworld
-Turner
-RRT
-plenty more others

these guys have been around for a while, keep in mind that their classing will be defining what they're allowed to do to their motors. I have no guidance regarding those regulations and the classes in which they participate. Who knows, maybe they all run that pump. Well, i know some of them drysump.

But ultimately, look at people like Vic or My, those guys are running stock stuff, and it hasnt been the 'cause of any of their failures.
 
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