This does sound like a bad day.

Suggest something like this as well - http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7597-3...Up/dp/B000NPR3WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1403403470&sr=8-3&keywords=pick+up+tool

What I would do is somehow get the tap tail to back out of the spark plug hole, the slowly, by hand, crank the engine so the piston comes up to hold the tap from dropping back into the cylinder. Hopefully you can use a square socket or the tap tool to grab the tap and then start to thread it into the spark plug hole.

If needed, back turn the engine to keep the piston close to the tap so it does not drop in again.

Good luck.

 

Problem is, you got metal shavings in the cylinder that will score the cylinder wall even if you're able to fish the tap out.
Get an inspection camera from Harborfreight.

Then attach a small magnet to the tip of a wire and try to pick up the tap by the end.

How much of the thread was damaged?
You just cleaned the thread that remained.

 

If I do have to take the head off, what are the cons of reusing the headgasket?

The head gasket will most likely be damaged during removal.

 

i read that the small metal shavings will not affect it? I wasnt able to screw the spark plug in at all so i rethreaded the whole thread and am going to use a helicoil

 

Thanks man, I was thinking that too. Would harborfreight sell that pick up tool?

 

Home Depot and even your local hardware or auto parts store probably has the 4 fingered pick up tool.

As for shavings in the cylinder, compressed air gun with a long extension down the cylinder and blow chips out exhaust or spark plug hole.

 

OP, you CANNOT reuse a head gasket. This is going to be extremely difficult to extract the tap, best of luck to you.

 

Try to pick it up with a magnet and then thread it out carefully.
Vacuum the shavings out before attemting to start the engine.

It is worth to put some effort in this before removing and reinstalling the head.

 

Thanks, I'll update you tomorrow.

 

What extension for vacuum would fit down the hole?

 

Just some flexible silicone tube you could thoroughly scoop the top of the piston head with. The stronger the vacuum, the better, but the tube wall should be sturdy enough to resist collapsing.
I'd try to attach it to a good vacuum cleaner if that was me, but perhaps there are better vacuum sources.

Anyway, getting the bit out of the cylinder is a priority. Deal with the shavings later. Use vacuum, inspect with a borescope camera, repeat until reasonably confident or too tired to care.

 

They sell this at Home Depot in the vacuum section. Not sure the small wand will fit in the spark plug hole, but it could used to taper down for an easier hose connection.

http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-801-...G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1403423455&sr=8-5&keywords=vacuum+cleaner+mini+adapter

 

This is a royal O shiat moment!

I would also get and inspection camera to locate the tap and then use a magnet to fish the driving end back out....the hard part, need to grab the tap and engage the threads........:facepalm:


On second thought; I give a 5% chance the above will work, the head will more than likely need to be pulled.

 

you got this!

like the inspection camera, that will be great to locate the tap. The hole is tapped? larger thou right? If it wasn't 3-4" down before the actual opening? I'd give it a shot, magnet, four finger grabber might be to big for both. I'd ready another larger magnet to grab it once it's high enough out, then locking needle nose pliers !

Good luck, just remember it went in thru the same hole! you CAN do it :clap:

 

like the inspection camera, that will be great to locate the tap. The hole is tapped? larger thou right? If it wasn't 3-4" down before the actual opening? I'd give it a shot, magnet, four finger grabber might be to big for both. I'd ready another larger magnet to grab it once it's high enough out, then locking needle nose pliers !

Good luck, just remember it went in thru the same hole! you CAN do it :clap:

Thanks! I'm gonna try a strong magnet and hopefully get it on the shaft so I can unthread It

 

Sh*t this sounds like a nightmare. Keep us updated and good luck.

 

I seriously wish you the best of luck. I thought I only had this bad of luck

 

That really really sucks. Best of luck dude.

 

If I have to resort to taking te head off, 1. Is there a way to without the vanos tool? 2. What all do I have to replace besides head gasket (obvi) and studs?

 

That sucks, I know your pain. Back when I had e36 I was replacing the tappets (so I had camshaft cover off) and didn't cover the oil drain holes that lead back to the sump and dropped a valve spring washer thing into the oil drain hole. So pissed at myself but managed to fish it out with magnetic tool. Thankfully avoiding having to remove the oil pan. But don't take it to bad you live and learn.

You won't need any other gaskets etc. except what you've said head gasket and new head bolts. But there are also a few parts that would be recommended to replace while you have plenty of space to work and can get to parts. The recommended parts are in the link along with a good instructions. Best of luck if you do decide to take the head off, and keep us posted!!!

http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php

 

Subscribed, and GOOD LUCK!

I'm pretty sure the American version of that engine has an iron block which means getting the tap with a magnet will be even more difficult. It might take hours of trying but it would beat having to pull the head. Of course you'll have to get lucky with the magnet and snag the unthreaded end of the tap.

Be sure to use a very good quality "magnet-on-a-stick". If it comes apart and you end up with more stuff in the cylinder . . . . well, you get the idea.

 

As everyone has said - I'm sorry that you are having to deal with this - it won't be fun - but you will get it.

I think that jfoj's original suggestion is brilliant; if you can use a magnet - or the gripper tool - to get the tap to sit upright and then hold it in place with the piston then a socket capable of attaching to the tap end (ie an appropriately sized twelve point) on a long extension where you can gauge that you're backing it out parallel to the spark plug hole could work well. Obviously, you want to be exceptionally careful in backing out the tap as cross threading is a real possibility.

Good luck!

Luke

 

If I have to resort to taking te head off, 1. Is there a way to without the vanos tool? 2. What all do I have to replace besides head gasket (obvi) and studs?

 

If you're planning to Helicon this, be sure you don't drop that in later: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...1240724-I-really-need-help-from-my-experienced-fellow-e36ers&highlight=helicoil

There's some good info there, might be worth a read.

 

I just googled a similar tap and its length is 3-19/32" long, which means it's a bit longer than the bore diameter (3.31"). Assuming that's the length (and it might be shorter), it's resting at an angle with the threaded end down. That's a good thing because there's no way for you to "flip" it over. It has to come out threads down.

Again, this all depends on the tap being longer than 3.31". If you can get the exact length of the tap then you can determine how it's sitting in the cylinder. A drawing and some geometry will help you decide how to angle the "magnet on a stick" that you poke through the spark plug hole.

Since the hole is recessed deeply into the head, you're gonna have issues with getting the magnet tool to curve over to the head of the tap. I'm thinking you may need to fashion your own tool with a magnet somehow attached to the end of a wire that you can easily bend to a nice curve.

Right now you need to remove the battery cable so you cannot accidentally spin the engine with the starter. That would likely mean the death of that piston. DO IT NOW!!!!

Next, remove the rest of the spark-plugs and COVER THE HOLES (!!!!) WITH SOMETHING THAT WILL BREATHE, LIKE OLD SOCKS!! You'll want to be able to GENTLY turn the engine to move the piston UP in case you get lucky and get the top of the tap through the spark plug hole.

Next I'd get a long wooden dowel that will fit through that spark plug opening. You'll want to get that piston on the bottom of its stroke.

SOMEONE ELSE WEIGH IN HERE - IS IT SAFE TO TURN THE ENGINE BACKWARDS IN CASE THAT PISTON IS ALREADY ON ITS WAY UP????

I'll assume you got piston #5 at the bottom of its stroke. That will give you the best leverage to reach the top of the tap.

If you actually snag it with the magnet and the tap is sticking out of the spark plug hole, you'll want to carefully hold it there while someone else CAREFULLY rotates the engine until piston #5 touches the bottom of the tap. DON'T ROTATE IT WITH A RATCHET - USE A PULL BAR AND SOCKET ON THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT. I say this because the valve springs pressing on the cam can often be enough to "kick" the crankshaft over another few degrees and you don't want the piston to slam into the bottom of that tap. It should be obvious when the piston touches the tap. Have your buddy physically hold the crank at that spot.

If you do that then it's impossible to drop the tap back in and you'll have plenty of time to carefully get something like some long, needle-nose vise grips on the end of the tap. Then it's a matter of getting the threads to line up as you back it out.

Good luck.

 

Just pull the head. Cylinders gonna be full of chips and probably a heli-coil tang anyway - which is not harmless.

 

Ouch, haven't heard of this situation yet. Best of luck man... I'm sorry to say but I think the head needs to be pulled.

 

How about swapping a 330 head whilst there? I've seen thread on the matter.

 

Jake, this item will allow you to do this, the camera head is small enough to fit through the hole and it has a very strong magnet that attaches to the camera head. I got mine at costco:
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Wire...dp/B009QYU07E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403578031&sr=8-1&keywords=whistler+camera