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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be an idiot and try and rebuild driveshaft in next day or two coz I know that's my issue with vibration.

While I was looking around, before dropping exhaust, it looks like my trans. mounts are right there. How much longer might that take while I'm there without driveshaft to do the trans. mounts?

Anything else in the neighborhood I'd be a bigger idiot NOT to do?

Doug
 

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I'm going to be an idiot and try and rebuild driveshaft in next day or two coz I know that's my issue with vibration.

While I was looking around, before dropping exhaust, it looks like my trans. mounts are right there. How much longer might that take while I'm there without driveshaft to do the trans. mounts?

Anything else in the neighborhood I'd be a bigger idiot NOT to do?

Doug
Transmounts are so easy , 2 nuts and they're off :)

While you're doing driveshaft you should do the guibo and rerplace exhaust gaskets connectiong to the headers.

The drivesahaft is so simple to remove i could do it in 30 min :D

I just don't know what a "rebuild" is ?
However the chances of it going bad are quite small , i just hope you're right on the money with your thoughts :)

Oh yeah and , in b4 GoingNuts "don't change the mounts if they're O.K , it will blow your car up !"
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did have guibo replaced last year and it looks fine, but it'll get a new set of 'one-time use' bolts. The 'rebuild' is everything on the driveshaft except the two large pieces...bearing, csb, that tape, this and that nut, etc...I'm just going to buy everything but the two halves of the shaft...and yes, exhaust gaskets too!

30 mins., huh? Even with getting it up off the ground? That's my challenge working in my home garage!

Even GoingNuts would agree that while I'm there, trans mounts at 193K probably need to be replaced. I was going to buy the 'special' ones with the pyrotechnic charge that allows me to just push a button and explode the trans. off to make changing it easier, but since your warning, decided not too...so thanks for that advice! LOL

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One really important question...

Anyone happen to know whether the factory marking for matching two halves of driveshaft was still present on their approximately 10 year old bimmer?

I don't want to get down there to find it wasn't, and the reason I'm rebuilding it myself, is because I suspect the two halves were off a spline or two when the CSB was replaced. BMW dealer only replaces driveshaft, they won't rebuild and that's an extra $800+ I ain't going to spend unless I have to.

Sorry for bothering you guys/gals...really appreciate it!

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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30 mins., huh? Even with getting it up off the ground? That's my challenge working in my home garage!

Even GoingNuts would agree that while I'm there, trans mounts at 193K probably need to be replaced. I was going to buy the 'special' ones with the pyrotechnic charge that allows me to just push a button and explode the trans. off to make changing it easier, but since your warning, decided not too...so thanks for that advice! LOL

Doug
I have a oilpit so i dont need to get it off the ground :thumbsup:

Lol at the exploding ones ^^

As far as matching marks , i believe i haven't seen any while working down there , though i could just have missed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wish I had a pit...would make it so much easier! Next time I'm around the house playing with a pneumatic hammer, I might just dig through my foundation and build myself one of those things!

Thanks again guys...will post a report on what my vibration turned out to be so future 'searchers' have some useful info!

Doug
 

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What vibration symptoms in particular? The BMW dealership told me I need a new driveshaft, but they said they were not 100% certain it would fix my problem. Sounds like an expensive gamble to me...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Infurno,

First, I can't confirm it is 'really' my driveshaft until vibration is gone...that's the only proof. Right now I'm guessing.

Second, I did call the local dealer and talked to a service rep who said that they 1) see very few unbalanced driveshafts and 2) they don't rebuild them, just replace them with new ones.

The symptoms I have is a constant 'undertone' of vibration from 15-70. Although it isn't a large vibration, it felt strong enough to me at highway speeds that I decided I couldn't ignore it anymore. (Not too objective, I know).

The 'speed' of the vibration seems to match what my 'seat' tells me is that of the driveshaft or other small rotating things. There's no difference turning right or left or under pressure from long sweeping turns right or left...so I've ruled out things that are assymetrical like bearings (had rears replaced anyway)...I'm also hoping that it isn't the rear driveshafts for the same reason. It 'seems' centered in my car.

From all my research, and I've done a lot, I know that the most common problem is the flex disk/ aka guibo...and that frequently when folks do that, they do the center support bracket/bearing at the same time. It seems the 'out of balance' would only happen if the csb was replaced improperly...meaning the two halves weren't put together again as they were when the shaft was factory balanced. With my mileage (193K) I'm also thinking the centering sleeve could be gone.

I hate to admit this, but I 'broke down' and brought it to my mechanic--didn't want to risk car being apart and not being able to easily get it to him. He's a genius, a friend, and obviously I trust him...was 'this' close to just doing it myself, but since I can't balance the driveshaft myself, there was a risk of me not being able to get exhaust off (common issue for many), it's at his shop now and I'm praying and awaiting the news!

Okay, that's my "War and Peace" on driveshaft stuff. Short story, unlikely anyone needs a new one coz BMW says so--there are alternatives...I actually found rebuilt ones online with 'serviceable' U-joints...which might come in handy every 100K! Odds are such vibrations as I described can be fixed with guibo and center support bearings, if the shop knows what they're doing and marks the two halves accurately so when reassembled, the splines mate as they did when original.

Doug
 

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Thanks for the input, that helps me.

I'll give you some background on mine, maybe it will somehow help you... Here is a video with the tone and vibration I'm getting.

http://vimeo.com/6609844

The noise can get so bad it hurts my ears, and the vibration can be pretty alarming. Although, I usually forget its even there since it's completely gone at highway speeds. It's worst when the car is under load (up hill) and it's worse on cold weather.

Just like yours, the sound won't change with turning the wheel left/right, it's always the same no mater which gear (3, 4,or 5) and it's independent of the RPM.

The vibration and noise is only when the clutch is engaged connecting the motor to the wheels. BMW said its probably not my differential or my transmission. I have taken it to 5 shops and nobody can figure it out. Driveshaft is my only lead.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
infurno,

That sound is not the same as mine...no difference with clutch in or out with me.

But, I do recall reading something about the difference in sounds with clutch in or out...and I'm sure someone here will know what that means...I'd just be guessing. I was going to go on and guess anyway, but that'd be unfair...that's definitely a good diagnostic and if you search...or wait...the answer will appear!

GL

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #15
infurno,

Just in case you haven't done this yet, get down and look up at your flex disk...you can see it if you didn't know.

I'm thinking that 'maybe' it's the guibo...giving problems when engaged and under load, but not when disengaged and just spinning from rear end forward?

Doesn't sound like CSB is involved since the vibes your getting disappear when disengaged...isn't that right?

Said I wouldn't guess...so sorry. I didn't want to hint that it might be transmission related and frighten you!

Doug
 
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