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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed I was getting a rumble sound about 6 months ago when leaving the neighborhood. Thought it was the road, but it made me pay closer attention. Not the road but the car. A year ago I replace both motor mounts and front bushings. Just finished replacing the Center bearing, flex plate and transfer case bushing and nothing has changed. I am down to the ujoints in the axle being bad. That said, I have not changed any of the rear suspension bushings, but don't think that a bad bushing would manifest itself in such a manner.

Before I spend $400 on a driveshaft, anybody have any insight?????
 

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Does the rumble go away while making left or right turns could be wheel bearings .Did you inspect the u-joints on your driveshaft
 

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Just to add info - auto or manual? Any major work done on the car in the last few years? Any input on history, like "I've owned it since new", or "I bought it a year ago and it was lowered, with tinted windows and 24's (heh)" or other things like an accident in its history? Tell me about the tires - matching and put on as a set, 3 of one type, 1 of another, or "I"ve never ever rotated them in the car's life", or you had a patch put on one a year ago, etc. Thanks.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
auto. I bought 2 years ago with 89k miles. Lots of differed maintenance. I have done vanos, oil filter housing gasket, plugs, valve cover gasket, motor mounts, all new PVC hoses, new radiator, waterpump, expansion tank and power steering lines. To address the rumble, I have recently replaced the flexplate, the center bearing and transfer/trans mount.

I only had a short drive yesterday. I am going to get her out on the highway today and see what I see...
 

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So, curious about getting a response from #3. Also, dry CV joints can slowly ramp up to a rumble like wheel bearings and I'm guessing yours are 20 years old with original dried grease? Does the sound change when you let off the gas, and get on the gas - just a slight accelerator pressure/coast back and forth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok... Runs out fine on the highway at 80MPH.

While accelerating from a stop
rumbles turning left
rumbles turning right
rumbles going straight

All under medium to medium hard acceleration. If fully throttle, hardly noticeable. Accelerating downhill hardly noticeable. Seems to rumble before gear changes more often then not. 2 to 3; 3 to 4... but here is the weird thing holding speed up a steep long hill I can make it vibrate constantly. Even when manually shifting the auto trans between 2 3 and 4. I WANT IT TO GO AWAY....:mad:
 

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05 330i rwd
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My 330i started with a rumble that eventually became a vicious vibration. It was the guibo. Replaced it and all is good. Just throwing that out there.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Again, sounds like a worn inner right front CV joint. Tough call w/o me driving it.
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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rumbles turning left
rumbles turning right
rumbles going straight
All under medium to medium hard acceleration. Accelerating downhill hardly noticeable. but here is the weird thing holding speed up a steep long hill I can make it vibrate constantly.
since you said you did the CSB I initially thought maybe you didn’t use the butyl tape as an isolator.
but hearing how it makes the vibration steady going up a hill sounds A LOT like the guibo. yes I know you said you replaced that but did you do it or a professional? are you absolutely certain the important arrows to correct bolt holes and flanges were followed. i have seen more incorrectly installed guibos being done than I can say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Car didn’t have butyl tape on part I took off and replacement didn’t have it either. The metal above the bearing was clean and shine no evidence nod it ever having had butyl. This is a 2001. Was that something added in later production ? 99.9 sure guibo is correct. Arrows toward flanges.

this problem was here before I started replacing part. So kind of confident I didn’t create it. But what do I know.
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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this problem was here before I started replacing part. So kind of confident I didn’t create it. But what do I know.
sorry my bad I didn’t catch that part. I thought it was new issue.
if it’s the same before and after then agreed your variables didn’t create it.
 

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So the tape I heard some cars have it and some don't. Mine does and always replaced it with when changing the CSB. The tape does not come with the bearing unless you are buying a package deal or something. I always had to buy it when replacing the CSB. I had to buy it when I changed the driveshaft as well. The new driveshaft came with a new CSB already on the rebuild. Now with that said and if it is drive train related, which it sounds a lot like the issue I was having, it could be your driveshaft. I had the issues before I replaced the flex disc and the CSB and changed those plus the engine mounts and tranny mounts, made sure I preloaded the CSB and made sure the flex disc was pointing the right direction within in about a month later it tore up the CSB, flex disc was fine. Ultimately I pulled the drive shaft, and had it rebuilt. Some say if you are at 100-150K it is about time on those universals and constant velocity joint where it matches up to the rear differential. Depending on the year of the car there are a few different set ups in driveshaft. When I pulled mine, the CV at the rear of the shaft was binding, which I believe why it ate the new CSB, which made the thumping worse. That is just my opinion if you did everything right and it is still tearing up drive line things. Pull the shaft and check the joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
checked the front drive shafts and the inner passenger side boot is toast. Gonna try to get that replaced today. hopefully that fixes it. I can grab that shaft and it has play in it.....
 
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