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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Kenny's ideas on drag racing a BMW turbo street car.

I've assumed the following:

+ BMW turbo street car (not street/strip cars)
+ Street radial tyres with street rims (no front runners, etc)
+ Pump fuel
+ Manual transmission

Setup For Drag Racing - Weight Reduction
First setup you car before going to the strip.

Your first task is weight reduction. Ensure you get to the strip with 1/8th tank of gas. That means allowing enough gas to get there with 1/8th left. Better to arrive with too little gas and then topping it up a tad from your gas can, which is of course filled with the same unleaded gas you have in your tank. A properly mixed slug of octane booster (or unleaded race gas) will give you some peace of mind too. Remember to put the booster in first to allow the gas to mix with it properly in the tank.

Every quart of fuel weighs 1.5 lbs.

Next drain all the water out of your washer botle. My M Coupe takes 5 litres in the washer bottle which is 11 lbs you don't need.

Then remove the spare tyre, toolkits and anything else from your trunk and from inside your car. Anything that can be eaily removed should go (CD Stackers, carpets, lose stuff, etc).

Now decide if you want to go to the trouble of removing your rear seats and passenger seat. Believe me when I tell you it will make a big difference. On average they say every 100 lbs is a tenth (0.1 off your ET).


Setup At The Strip - Tire Pressures
Now you've driven to the strip and been through scrutineering, get out your trusty pass journal and tire pressure gauge.

Ensure you've got 1/8th tank of gas - you don't want to starve for gas during a pass. Now hook up your compressor and increase your front tires to 55 psi. If you don't have access to a compressor then swing by the closest place to your drag strip and do this before you arrive at the strip.

You increase the pressure in your front tires to minimise rolling resistance. If you happened to have an alternate set of narrower wheels/tires then you'd fit the narrowest practical set for race day.

The rear tire pressure is more involved, because you've got to try a range of pressures and see what results in the best 60' times. The optimum setting changes as the weather conditions change, so this is a bit of a black art. That's what your Pass Journal is all about. This is where you record your car setup and the results after each run. That way you can make changes one at a time and make some sort of analysis in order to optimise your setup.

Generally speaking you should drop your rear tire pressure 4 psi from standard and then work your way down by half a psi at a time until your 60' times get worse.

Remember that fine adjustments on street radials is less of a factor than when you graduate to drag radials or slicks. However it is still well worth your while to get close to the optimium.

Your Pass Journal will have an entry for every pass you do, including the following information as a minimum:

+ Tire pressure
+ Launch RPM
+ 60' result
+ My comments

More on how to use your Pass Journal seek the optimum setup in a later post.


The Burnout - How Long?
If you are a beginner or feel a bit nervous about the upcoming pass, then simply drive around or through the water box and don't worry about a burnout. You can add the burnout to your later passes as you become more comfortable.

Remember that street cars using street radials are very different to a Top Doorslammer. You're not going to do a half track burnout and wow the crowd. Street cars that do long pointless burnouts are basically wasting everyone's time. Don't be one of them!

Now street radials like a touch of heat in them to get optimum traction. But too much heat and their traction is reduced. However if you don't spin the tires at all then you've still got some water and grit on your tires from the water box (unless you managed to drive around it).

My advice for street radials is to drive through the water box and come to a halt. When signalled by the official, dial up the revs and drop the clutch. Wait until your tires smoke a tad and then button off. We're talking less than a 2 second burnout here. More than that and you risk cooking the rubber (ie reducing traction until they cool).

Realise that drag radials and slicks are made totally differently to street radials. These special tires require a lot more heat to work. Street radials don't.


The Burnout - How To Do One?
Now you know how long to let the burnout go for, exactly how do you perform a decent burnout?

Let's start from standstill, waiting for the official to motion you to start your burnout. Select the appropriate gear (1st, 2nd or 3rd depending on your horsepower, the higher the gear the more power required to turn the tyres over). When the official signals to start your burnout, dial in some revs and drop the clutch. You can dance your left foot over to touch the brake a tad and balance the revs via throttle with forward movement via brake (takes a bit of practice).

Now if you continue to creep forward and start to contact your tires with dry sticky track then you're obviously going to put more strain on your driveline.

When you've got some heat into the tires, just let off the brake and /or drop revs a tad and your car will creep forward. Get off the gas and allow the car to roll gently towards the staging lights.


How To Pre-Stage
You're rolling gently towards the staging lights. Keep your eyes on the Christmas Tree and look for the White Pre-Stage light to blink on. The instant you see this light come on you nail the brakes and come to a total halt. You're not yet fully staged - just pre-staged. The second Full Stage light is still unlit.

I recommend you now wait until your opponent is at least Pre-Staged or even on Full Stage before you bump in to Full Stage. Once either competitor is on Full Stage, the other racer has only 20 seconds to fully stage or the starter may disqualify you. In practice at a street meet the starter will rarely disqualify you, but they may come over and bang on your side window to hint that you're holding things up!

Once you are pre-staged you must now focus on that Full Stage light with all your concentration. Because as soon as you fully stage, the starter can trigger the Christmas Tree at any time.


How To Bump On To Full Stage
You're at a halt with the Pre-Stage light up and your competitor is fully staged.

Now apply your ebrake gently and dial up your pre-determined launch RPMs. You've already thought about what RPM you're going to launch at before you lined up. If this is your first pass, then just choose whatever starting point you think appropriate.

Your clutch is in, your RPMs are steady at your launch point and your ebrake is slightly on. Now you ever so gently tease your clutch out - looking for the friction point where the RPMs start to dip showing you the clutch is dragging your engine just slightly.

With your hand you are holding the ebrake just slightly on. This is a delicate balancing act, ensuring your engine is at launch RPMs, your car rolls forward ever so slightly and your rear brakes are just slightly on to ensure you move very very slowly on to Full Stage.

This is called bumping on to Full Stage and is not easy to do. If you roll forward too far you will Redlight by crossing over the start beam. No big deal, it's all practice and you'll do better next time.

Once you bump on to Full Stage you pull your ebrake up firm so your car comes to a dead stop. But you don't allow the ebrake to ratchet on lock, you keep it on but not locked by pressing the button as you hold it.

If you get it right you will find yourself fully staged, motionless on the start line and most importantly, you are solidly locked on your launch RPMs with your clutch just at friction point, dragging against your ebrake.

You are not looking at your tacho to check your RPMs. You are not looking at your ebrake. You are not looking at anything other than the Christmas tree.


The Launch
It's been covered in detail in many other places so I'll just state it here. Because of human reaction time and because of the vehicle reaction time of your car's suspension and drivetrain, you do not launch when you see the Green light on the Christmas Tree. You launch the instant you see the last of the three Amber lights come on.

Option One
You're at steady launch RPMs with the clutch at friction point and the ebrake held on but not locked. As you see the last Amber come on, you release the ebrake fully (holding the button in) and flatten the gas while modulating your drivetrain using your clutch. Because you're launching a turbo car you flatten the gas. On an NA car you wouldn't do that.

Option Two
You've got your ebrake held on but not locked. You pulse your gas pedal so your RPMS peak at redline and drop slightly but stay in the power band of your engine (revving your engine quite hard). As you see the last Amber come on, you release the ebrake fully (holding the button in) and flatten the gas while modulating your drivetrain using your clutch. This is your attempt to build some boost off the line. Negatives are it's harder to get a consistent launch. Up to you - maybe try it both ways and see what you prefer.

Whichever option you choose this is not easy to do and takes many repetitions to get a good result. This is where it's all at - your reaction time versus your opponent and how well you can launch your car without wheelspinning.

You must slip your clutch mercilessly to get an optimum launch. Sometimes you may find you have not let the clutch out fully before it is time to change up a gear. This is OK.

Wheelspin on launch or upshift will cost you precious time. The optimum launch is at 10% wheelspin. This is very difficult to achieve and again comes only with much practice and experience. It's all good!

Yes, you will punish your clutch. Yes, it will give off that awful smell of tortured components. Yes - it is the only way to optimise your launch.

Clutches are consumables and are meant to be replaced. Regular drag racing will severely shorten the life of your clutch, but so what? You replace the clutch and go on your way. Just like tyres.

Take a look at my Pass Journal below. More about that in part 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Drag Racing 101 Part 2.

Getting A Better Time
Your reaction time (RT) is all about how quickly you react on the start line. It does not factor into your ET at all. However the winner of each race is very much affected by the RT. So once you are comfortable with the process of doing the burnout, launching and shifting up through the gears I recommend you treat each pass like it's a race. The only way to get better is to practice like you race.

Drag racing is all in the launch. Every tenth (0.1 second) reduction in your 60' time is .15 to .25 reduction in your ET.

You can beat an opponent with a much more powerful car by getting a sharp RT and by getting a sweet launch.

Using Your Pass Journal
After each pass I recommend you drive back to the pits after collecting your timeslip. Get out of your car and get your Pass Journal out.

Now note down the vital pieces of information about the pass:

+ Launch RPMs: (eg 4500 RPM)
+ Tire Pressure: (eg 28 psi)
+ 60' time: (eg 2.150 seconds)
+ My comments: (eg Car bogged down, need RPMs)

Sometimes you can easily tell what you did wrong - too few RPMs on launch and you bog down. Too many RPMs and you get wheelspin or wheel hop.

Sometimes you have to use your 60' times to help you work out what's going on.

The important thing to remember is to only change one thing at a time. Otherwise you have no idea which of the changes you made created the different result, not to mention that the combination of changes hopelessly confuses things.

I recommend you start with your launch RPMs and keep your tire pressure at your standard setting (ie what you run on the street).

The rule of thumb is that you want to launch at your peak torque figure. Now this is not so easy to find, because as you launch your engine and drivetrain slow as the load comes on. So you have to launch at an RPM level higher than your engine's peak torque, so that as the load comes on then you are at your peak torque.

In practice, pick a fairly low launch RPM .. say 2000 RPM, and then bump it up 500 RPM at a time. Keep doing this until you get hopeless wheelspin on the launch. Then drop the launch RPM down by 250 RPM and try again. You're doing a sort of chop sort by way of hitting on the optimum launch RPMs.

And how are you evaluating what is a good launch? By examining your 60' times after each pass. You soon note that wheelspin or wheel hop means a shitty 60' time and that bogging down results in a shitty 60' time, too. But sometimes it all goes right and you get a stormer!

Before too long you'll have a good idea of the RPM band your car best likes on that day. Remember that different weather conditions will change what your car wants, but it will only change so far.

Let's say you finally settle on 3750 RPM as the best launch, the one at which you consistently get the best 60' times. Now it's time to fiddle with the tire pressures. So you dial in every pass at 3750 RPM and then you adjust your rear tire pressure down by 0.5 psi each pass until you again notice your 60' times get worse.

You should notice that the 60' times improve for a while and then get worse again. In any circumstance, you don't want to go much below say 10-12 psi less than recommended; that can be dangerous.

Once you've done this analysis you will have an optimum launch RPM and an optimum tire pressure for that day.

Now you will find that the optimum tire pressure will allow you to launch at a higher RPM! So you start the trial and error analysis all over again. Of course, for each pass you pre-determine what the launch RPMs will be so there's no thinking on the start line. And you record all your results in your pass journal when you get back. A pass journal may sound fancy but I use the back of a scrap of paper usually (see attachement image in post above) - whatever you prefer.

Also don't forget to factor in your improvement as a racer. Your first passes will be crappy compared to your most recently passes as you get the hang of it all.

It's all good fun! And it doesn't matter if you've got the most powerful car in the world or a stocker, the thrill of drag racing is there for everyone.

A good racer can beat an opponent with much less hardware at his or her disposal using the techniques listed above. And it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile ... winning is winning ;-)

Here is my formal Pass Journal loaded up into a spreadsheet for more detailed analysis (just using my daily driver as an example):
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Drag Racing 102: Advanced Techniques

Kenny's ideas on drag racing a BMW turbo street/strip car.

I've assumed the following:

+ BMW turbo street/strip car (not racecar)
+ Drag Radials or Drag Slicks
+ Racing fuel (like C16)
+ Manual transmission
+ Line locker
+ Racing clutch
+ Boost controller

Setup At The Strip - Tyre Pressures
Set the pressure in your front runners to the maximum allowable (say 55 psi). Then forget them.

Cars over 3000 lbs are considered a heavy car by drag racing standards. There are special slick compounds for cars over 3000 lbs (most of us).

I'd recommend starting with 18 psi and varying to see what gets you the best short time.

Remember small slicks need more air in them, especially with high power sedans.


The Burnout - How Long?
Drag Radials (eg Mickey Thompson ET Street) require two hard burnouts to get up to heat. After tha a quick burnout before each pass.

Drag Slicks require one hard burnout at the start of the night, followed by a light burnout each time.

For a hard burnout wait until you can see the rubber hazing and then button off.


The Burnout - How To Do One?
Select 3rd gear with your rubber in the waterbox. Now pump up your brakes and activate your line locker (if you have a brake pressure guage you're aiming for 2000 psi).

If you are running a twostep activate it now in burnout mode.

Fully press the gas pedal down and wait until you hit the two step, then step off the clutch while keeping the line locker activated.

When you see the rubber hazing, deactivate the line locker and allow the RPMs to drop, then button off.

Stage immedaitely while the rubber is sticky.


How To Bump On To Full Stage
Creep into Pre-Stage. Pump up your brakes to about 300-400 psi on the brake pressure gauge. Activate your line locker.

If you are running a two step activate it now in launch mode. If you're running antilag activate it now.

With the line locker on, dial up some RPMs and slip the clutch out a little so the car is pulling against the brakes. This way you can very precisely bump in to full stage.

Once in full stage clutch in and floor the gas pedal. You are now bouncing off your twostep limit and antilag is popping away nicely.

The Launch
When you see the last amber light drop the line locker and step off the clutch in one motion. Start shifting fast!

At the Stripe
Stay into it for one-one-thousand-two-one-thousand after you think you've crossed the stripe. That's to make sure you actually have crossed the finish line before you button off.

Stay into the gas as you trip your parachute and wait until it's deployed, then button off and slip your tranimission into neutral. Let the 'chute kill most of your speed and then ease on the brakes slowly and gently.

If You Break
If something lets go then it's usually at the start line. Immediately drive off the race line towards the sidewall and stop as quickly as possible. That reduces the cleanup time for the track officials if you're dropping any fluids onto the race surface. They will like you a lot more if you remember to do this.

If the Car Gets Loose
Nobody ever crashed by buttoning off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Best rubber fitment for BMW street cars with unmodified bodywork

This is the place to document the largest (tallest and widest) rubber fitment for unmodified BMW street cars (for drag racing).

BMW E36 M3 unmodified bodywork
With 17" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial part number 3743R -> 275/40 R17
    + Tread width 10.2" (Can fit on rims 8"-10")
    + 26.0" tall and 82" circumference
    + Sidewall width 11.0"
    + Credit: Kurt (ParadigmGuy)
With 16" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Street part number 3793 -> 26"x11.5"-16
    + Tread width 9.7" (Can fit on rims 9"-11")
    + 26.2" tall and 82" circumference
    + Sidewall width: 10.8"
    + Credit: Mike Radowski
  • Hoosier QuickTime Pro DOT part number 17430 -> 26"x9.5"x16"
    + Tread width ? (Can fit on rims 6"-8")
    + 26.1" tall and 82" circumference (VERY tight fit in wheel well)
    + Section width 10.0"
    + Credit: Ulysses (Card Counter)
  • Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial part number 3793R -> 255/50 R16
    + Tread width 9.7" (Can fit on rims 7"-9")
    + 26.0" tall and 82" circumference
    + Sidewall width: 10.5"
    + Credit: Dave, George (trthrrt489, ImportedCars)
With 15" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial part number 3752R -> 235/60 R15
    + Tread width 8.0" (Can fit on rims 7"-9")
    + 26.0" tall and 82" circumference (VERY tight fit in wheel well)
    + Sidewall width: 9.5"
    + Credit: Alan (morerevsm3)
  • Hoosier Drag Slicks part number 18110 -> 26.0"x8.0"-15
    +Tread width: 8.0"
    +Diameter: 26.1"
    +Circumference: 82"
    +Recommended rim: 7-8"
    +Section width: 9.7"
    + Credit: Dave (trthrrt489)
BMW E37/8 M Coupe unmodified bodywork
With 15" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Drag part number 3053 -> 26"x10"-15
    + Tread width 9.6" (Can fit on rims 9"-11")
    + 26.0" tall and 82" circumference
    + Sidewall width: 11.6"
    + Credit: Kenny (MrBlonde)
  • BF Goodrich Comp TA Drag Radial part number no longer available but try 82648 -> 275/50 R15
    + Tread width 9.6" (Can fit on rims 8"-10")
    + 26.1" tall
    + Section width: 11.3"
    + Credit: Kenny (MrBlonde)
BMW E30 unmodified bodywork
With 14" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Drag part number 3013 -> 24.5"x8"-14
    + Tread width 7.7" (Can fit on rims 6"-8")
    + 24.5" tall and 77" circumference
    + Sidewall width: 9.9"
    + Credit: Donovan (BMW sob)
BMW E46 M3 unmodified bodywork
With 16" rim:
  • Mickey Thompson ET Street part number 3792 -> 26x10.50-16
    + Sidewall width: 10.3"
    + Tread width: 8.4"
    + Height: 25.9"
    + Credit: Adam (PEI330i)
With 18" rim:
  • BF Goodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radial part number 89451 -> 275/35 R18
    + Tread width ?" (Can fit on rims 9"-11")
    + 25.6" tall and ?" circumference
    + Sidewall width: ?"
    + Section width: 10.9"
    + Credit: Vik (TaZaM3)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Gearing for Drag Racing

Gearing Basics
To determine your optimum gearing you need to know the following:

+ The rubber under your rear guards
+ Your engine's redline
+ Your gearbox ratios
+ Your diff ratio
+ Your car's trap speed on it's best ever pass

Given that the optimum rubber you can fit under your BMW street car for drag racing purposes is the tallest and widest rubber that will fit, click on the link in my sig to find the optimum rubber for your car (or look for the post near the top of this thread).

You must work out what gearbox you are running and what the gearing is for each gear. It's also important to note which gear is your 1:1 gear. Optimally you want to be one car length past the finish line when you hit redline in your 1:1 gear.

Once you know your engne redline, optimum rubber and your gearbox ratios, you can then calculate the best diff ratio, given that you know the best trap speed you've ever hit. If you expect to make mods to improve your trap speed, then go test it before changing your diff rato.

Your objective is to calculate what diff ratio will give you 1-2 MPH higher than your best ever trap speed at redline in your 1:1 gear. There are a limited choice of diff ratios available depending on what BMW model you have. You may end up finding a great match in the gear lower than your 1:1 gear (for example 4th rather than 5th). Or you may end up more than 1-2 MPH under your best trap speed. That's OK, you are working towards your optimum setup and doing the best you can.

For specific examples or calculations just post a request thread and I will help.

E46 M3 with OEM tranny
Let's examine an E46 M3 with the OEM transmission. Let's assume a redline of 8000 RPM as well. Let's also assume you're running the rubber listed below (thanks to Vik for proving this fitment).

BF Goodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radial part number 89451 -> 275/35 R18
+ Tread width ?" (Can fit on rims 9"-11")
+ 25.6" tall and ?" circumference
+ Sidewall width: ?"
+ Section width: 10.9"
+ Credit: Vik (TaZaM3)

The OEM 6 speed transmission gearing is below:
1st: 4.23
2nd: 2.53
3rd: 1.67
4th: 1.23
5th: 1
6th: 0.83 overdrive

For drag racing then, the optimum is to hit the stripe at redline in 5th gear (which is your 1:1 gear).

364 diff (OEM diff ratio)
  • 1st 40 mph
  • 2nd 66 mph
  • 3rd 100 mph
  • 4th 136 mph
  • 5th 167 mph
  • 6th 202 mph
391 diff (BMW Motorsport CWP available)
  • 1st 37 mph
  • 2nd 62 mph
  • 3rd 93 mph
  • 4th 127 mph
  • 5th 156 mph
  • 6th 188 mph
410 diff (BMW Motorsport CWP available)
  • 1st 35 mph
  • 2nd 59 mph
  • 3rd 89 mph
  • 4th 121 mph
  • 5th 149 mph
  • 6th 179 mph
461 diff
  • 4th 107 MPH
570 diff
  • 5th 107 MPH
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Racing Fuels

To help people understand what fuels are what for a turbo BMW here are some facts. Note that it's not as simple as "the higher the octane the better". Many other factors come into it.

Please take a look at the VP Racing Fuels site

Unleaded Fuels

MOTORSPORT 109
Produces more power than any other unleaded fuel. Recommended for higher boost applications with CRs up to 11:1 or naturally aspirated engines up to 13:1.

• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane: 101
• R+M/2: 105
• Research Octane: 109
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Specific Gravity: .722 at 60° F

Streetblaze 100
Oxygenated with ethanol, this CARB-legal fuel is specifically engineered for high-performance street cars including sport compacts, muscle cars, street rods and more. It's environmentally friendly and street legal throughout the U.S. In applications with anything from 4- to 12-cyclinders or engines equipped with a turbocharger, supercharger or nitrous oxide system (NOS), StreetBlaze 100 will generate optimum power and performance. In turbocharged or supercharged applications, it allows an increase in boost without fear of detonation. NOS users can also leverage their higher octane ratings to step up to a more powerful nitrous oxide system. Dyno tests with a turbocharged application proved StreetBlaze100 generates up to 14% more horsepower compared to premium grade 91 octane unleaded gasoline. Designed for use in cast-iron head engines with CRs up to 13:1 and aluminum head engines up to 14:1. Works well on the latest generation of electronically-controlled turbo engines. Contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

• Color: Orange
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Motor Octane: 96
• R+M/2: 100
• Specific Gravity: .746 at 60° F

MOTORSPORT 101
This 101 octane (R+M/2) fuel allows an increase in timing and more powerful nitrous oxide systems, with substantial power increases compared to premium pump gas. Designed for CRs up to 13:1 in cast-iron head engines and up to 14:1 with aluminum heads, MS101 is particularly effective in turbo- and supercharged applications. It contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

• Color: Yellow
• Motor Octane: 99
• R+M/2: 101
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Specific Gravity: .800 at 60° F


MOTORSPORT 103
MS103 provides power and protection equal to some leaded racing fuels. Compared to Motorsport 101, it allows even more aggressive timing and higher compression-up to 14:1 in cast iron head engines and up to 15:1 with aluminum heads. Can allow doubling of stock boost - consult your engine builder. Also contains no metal compounds and won't harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. AMA legal for Supercross & Outdoor Nationals.

• Color: Red
• Motor Octane: 99
• R+M/2: 103
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Specific Gravity: .743 at 60° F


Leaded Fuels

C16
Used in turbocharged engines, blown engines and nitrous applications with CRs up to 17:1. Recommended by the top nitrous oxide companies. Spec Fuel for NHRA Comp Eliminator.

• Color: Blue
• Motor Octane: 117
• Specific gravity: .735 at 60° F


VP Import
Maximum power and torque in small displacement, high RPM, all motor, turbocharged or nitrous sport compact applications. Makes 5% more power than C16 and similar nonoxygenated fuels. Works well under high temperatures due to mechanical heat.

• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane: 120+
• Specific Gravity: .744 at 60° F
 

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Discussion Starter #7
NHRA rules for BMW street cars

Here are the relevant rules for NHRA certified tracks for street cars.

NHRA Sport Compact 2007 rulebook PDF download here.
2007 Rulebook revisions here.

My summary:

1.3 Exhaust: All street stock must be equipped with functioning mufflers and may be required to meet maximum decibel levels at certain facilities.

1.12 Supercharger: Screw type supercharger prohibited.

1.15 Vent Tubes, Breathers: Tubes must terminate into a permanently attached catch tank with min capacity of 1 gallon. NHRA may introduce mandatory breather systems on all nitrous injected and/or boosted engines.

2.4 Driveline: All RWD 13.99 or quicker with slicks and 11.49 or quicker with street tyres must have a tailshaft loop.

2.5 Flywheel: Stock cast type flywheels prohibited for cars running 11.49 or quicker. Must use SFI Spec 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4.

2.10 Flywheel shield: 11.99 or quicker require a flywheel sheild SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3 or 9.1.

2.14 Automatic transmission: Quicker than 10.99 or faster than 135 MPH require tranmission shield meeting SFI spec 4.1

4.4 Frames: All cars running 9.99 or quicker must have a serialized chassis sticker affixed to the frame (NHRA issued).

4.8 Parachutes: Mandatory for cars 150 MPH or faster.

4.10 Roll bars: Mandatory in cars 11.49 or quicker. Mandatory for convertibles 13.49 or quicker.

4.11 Roll cage: Mandatory in cars 10.99 or quicker or faster than 135 MPH. Cars with unaltered firewall, floor and body running between 10.00 and 10.99 roll bar permitted in place of roll cage. I do not believe that this applies to a convertible: they require a rollcage.

6.3 Window net: A ribbon type SFI Spec 27.1 mesh type window net is mandatory on any car required to have a roll cage.

8.2 Delay Boxes/ Devices: Prohibited in all vehicles.

8.4 Master Cutoff: Mandatory if battery is relocated or if car is 135 MPH or faster or 9.99 or quicker.

9.1 Computer: Traction control prohibited.

10.3 Arm Restraints: Required for any car that must have a roll cage. Convertibles require arm restraints if 11.99 or quicker.

10.4 Credentials: Each driver must have a valid unrestricted state or government issued driver's licence or NHRA competition licence. Class 3B or 4B NHRA licence required if 9.99 or quicker. A new driver who has not previously held a competition licence will be given the blindfold test and will be required to make a minimum of 6 runs under the observation of two licenced drivers and a designated NHRA official.

10.5 Driver Restraint Systems: Quick release 5 point 3 inch harness SFI Spec 16.1 mandatory in cars that are required to have a roll bar or roll cage.

10.6 Head Protector: In any car with roll bar or roll cage a padded head protector must be provided at the rear of the driver's head. Also required if car 135 MPH or faster.

10.7 Helmets: Drivers must wear an SFI or SNELL approved helmet. 13.99 or quicker require Snell 90, 95 K98, 2000, SFI 31.1A, 31.2A, 41.1A or 41.2A specs.

10.8 Neck Collar/Helmet Restraint Device: Required with helmet.

10.10 Protective Clothing: Drivers are required to have as a minimum:
- 11.49 to 10.00: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1. All drivers are required to wear full length pants to the ankle, shoes and socks. Nylon clothes and open toe shoes prohibited.

10.11 Seat belts: All cars not required to use 5 point 3" wide SFI Spec 16.1 harnesses must be equipped with accepted quick release driver seat belt.


Class regulations: Sport RWD

+ Minimum weights: For 6 cylinder with 1 power adder (eg turbo): 3500 pounds. with 2 power adders (includes CO2 or Nitrous intercooler spray): 3750 pounds
+ Engine containment device mandatory.
+ All exhaust must flow through functioning mufflers and must exit behind rear tires.
+ Six cylinder turbo applications limited to maximum 76mm turbo, where the maximum compressor housing exducer diameter is 77.50 mm.
+ Transmission - automatic: Must be from same manufacturer, no crossbredding (ie no GM/BMW).
+ Transmission - manual: Must be from same manufacturer.
+ Rear end: Swaps probhibited.
+ Interior: Complete interior, including dashboard, door panels, headliner, etc mandatory. Two matching front seats mandatory. All factory controls must be retained, ie lights, signals, horn, wipers, windows.
+ Body: lightweight body panels limited to hood, fenders and deck lid.
+ Street equipment: Windsheild wipers mandatory. Complete headlight and taillight assemblies mandatory, must be operative. Complete OEM windshield and windows mandatory, Windows must be operative as per factory specifications.

If your street car cannot meet any of these rules then you are in "Modified" class. Basically you'll be racing against race cars so forget it!
 

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Awesome right up! thanks
 

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Good stuff Kenny!! Thx for the info!:thumbsup:
 

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Awesome stuff.
Cant wait til next year!
SUBSCRIBED for future reference!!
 

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Good writeup.

I think you should note however - that the stiffer the sidewall of the tire, the closer to your daily pressures you will want to be. I drop mine 3 psi (if any) from my daily 36 when I'm at the track. Other launch factors play a much bigger role.
 

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Great info. I went to the drag strip last night and found out I have a lot to learn...like pay attention when the lights start coming on.
 

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"The rule of thumb is that you want to launch at your peak torque figure. Now this is not so easy to find, because as you launch your engine and drivetrain slow as the load comes on. So you have to launch at an RPM level higher than your engine's peak torque, so that as the load comes on then you are at your peak torque."

My peak torque is at 6700RPM, so I should put the two step at 7000RPM launch? Wouldn't this be to high?
I have never launched more then 5500RPM.
 
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