[scrote]

I've been trying to get my door lock actuator to work properly since I've had this car. It will not unlock with the fob, but will lock. The locking pin thingy would get jammed when I used the key, and would barely unlock the car, resulting in the door jam getting caught a little when opening the door. Ive tried 3 different actuators, and none seem to solve the problem.

Today I went to the junkyard, found a very good condition actuator and installed it in my car.

I try to unlock the door with the fob: NOTHING. So I try the key: THE FUCKING LOCK CYLINDER BREAKS.

So now I have no really easy way of unlocking my driver door.

1. Could it be the GM5 module instead of the actuator?
2. could it be something else in the locking system?

I'm losing my mind here.

UPDATE:
I traced the wire from the gm5 to the door lock and measured it with a mulimeter when pressing the unlock button on the fob.

I am getting normal results (~12V when pressing unlock) but the lock still doesn’t unlock. This would make me believe that the actuator is at fault, but i’ve tried many different ones and gotten the same result. i’m really at a loss right now.

I wouldn’t think the ground is bad, because all the other functions work fine.


I check on INPA, tried using the activation menu to toggle the lock. same behavior as the fob.

I have a lot of errors in the gm5. one of them relates to the driver door locking system relay.
“zentraverriegelung relais verriegeln fahrertuer: oeffnerkontact unterbricht oder schliesserkontakt klebt” Error frequency: 31

Could this be pointing to the relays in the GM5 module being bad?

 

[VpointVick]

"Could it be the GM5?" - Need more info. Does the button on the console work? Is there anything else not working? Wipers? Interior lights?

"Could it be something else in the locking system?" - Are you using aftermarket actuators?

There's a lock cylinder repair kit available on Amazon for >$10.

 

[yjsaabman]

Lock cylinder breakage is not uncommon. They were a bit under designed with the plan to use the keyless.

My guess is a wiring issue, most likely in the door jamb. Test for the unlock signal at the actuator, then work your way back if it's not there.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[scrote]

"Could it be the GM5?" - Need more info. Does the button on the console work? Is there anything else not working? Wipers? Interior lights?

"Could it be something else in the locking system?" - Are you using aftermarket actuators?

There's a lock cylinder repair kit available on Amazon for >$10.

The button on the console works just as well as the fob.
Everything else with the gm5 works just fine
Actuators are from BMW

 

[scrote]

Lock cylinder breakage is not uncommon. They were a bit under designed with the plan to use the keyless.

My guess is a wiring issue, most likely in the door jamb. Test for the unlock signal at the actuator, then work your way back if it's not there.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I will try that. Thank you

 

[VpointVick]

The button on the console works just as well as the fob.
Everything else with the gm5 works just fine
Actuators are from BMW

I don't know why you phrased this this way, it's confusing since your OP makes it seem as though the fob isn't working very well at all.

 

[Mike.Santos999]

^ got me confused too.

 

[Bali]

I'm losing my mind here.

This is what happens when you don’t follow a proper diagnosing process. Guessing at what is wrong, replacing parts without first testing them, etc., leads one straight to frustration.

The right way is this:

1. Study and understand the system and how each component works
2. Test each component
3. Isolate the defective one
4. Replace just that part

Refer to the wiring diagram here.

BMW WDS Online

bmw wds online for all browsers

bmwteka.com

 

[scrote]

I don't know why you phrased this this way, it's confusing since your OP makes it seem as though the fob isn't working very well at all.

i’m saying that it behaves exactly like the fob. (driver door will lock but won’t unlock)

 

[scrote]

This is what happens when you don’t follow a proper diagnosing process. Guessing at what is wrong, replacing parts without first testing them, etc., leads one straight to frustration.

The right way is this:

1. Study and understand the system and how each component works
2. Test each component
3. Isolate the defective one
4. Replace just that part

Refer to the wiring diagram here.

BMW WDS Online

bmw wds online for all browsers

bmwteka.com

where is this wiring located in the car? the gm5 or the actual lock actuator? not too familiar with wd’s

 

[yjsaabman]

where is this wiring located in the car? the gm5 or the actual lock actuator? not too familiar with wd’s

The wiring runs all through the car. For this, I'd guess from the fuseblock and GM5, across the dash, through the door jamb, and through the door to the latch. You don't need to dig it all out to test it, just to repair it if you have a break somewhere. Use a multimeter to test continuity between points, like door jamb connector and the GM5, the door jamb connector and the latch, etc. Then if you find a problem you trace that wire until you find the problem. The door jamb would be my most likely location as the wires are constantly flexing and can break.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[OURMANDAN]

where is this wiring located in the car? the gm5 or the actual lock actuator? not too familiar with wd’s

Scrote did you get your lock working? What did it take? I can help you .. but if you don't need the help and/or have moved on please advise before your thread goes cold.

 

[scrote]

Scrote did you get your lock working?

yes i got it sorted out for a while by getting my gm5 worked on