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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Was just looking over the engine bay (no car problems that I can tell, runs nice!) but I’ve heard cracked intake boots are common so looked at mine while I was poking about.
To me it looks pretty damn cracked. But like I said, no issues.
Common to look like this or is it on its way out?
Cheers
 

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'01 320Ci manual
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Hi all,
Was just looking over the engine bay (no car problems that I can tell, runs nice!) but I’ve heard cracked intake boots are common so looked at mine while I was poking about.
To me it looks pretty damn cracked. But like I said, no issues.
Common to look like this or is it on its way out?
Cheers
Certainly?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Goes without saying doesnt it..
Parts ordered, arriving tomorrow to do the work.
ps how do you remove a post, I dont think this one was necessary...
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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how do you remove a post, I dont think this one was necessary...
I can delete this thread if you like, just ask.
IMO it’s useful for the photos alone, as that’s often where the cracks happen.

Air leaks before the throttle body tend to have less effect on the fuel managment than those after the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can delete this thread if you like, just ask.
IMO it’s useful for the photos alone, as that’s often where the cracks happen.

Air leaks before the throttle body tend to have less effect on the fuel managment than those after the throttle body.
Happy to leave it up if its useful for others... added some tags too so it can be found a little easier.
Maybe I’ll add some photos after I’ve done the work and add some comments about how the DIY went. Found a good guide on here though, looks pretty straight forward.
 

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Unless you have a lean code, no, it does not need to be replaced.
But, it's an easy fix, so go ahead and replace
 

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'01 320Ci manual
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Unless you have a lean code, no, it does not need to be replaced.
But, it's an easy fix, so go ahead and replace
This boot is completely damaged
And instead of the code fuel trims are a better indication. Also, tears don't appear unless you actually flex the boot and then it will disintegrate on your hands
 

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2004 325i automagic
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This boot is completely damaged
And instead of the code fuel trims are a better indication. Also, tears don't appear unless you actually flex the boot and then it will disintegrate on your hands
Yeah, that boot has seen better days ... one good bump or pothole could jar it loose, or even the need to remove it for other repairs would likely destroy it.

It'd be interesting to do a cheap cigar smoke test to see if it's actively leaking, but sooner or later it will.
 

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I had mine once crack without error codes. But car became so much quicker after replacing it I can say it was by far best 20€ spent ever on every car I had.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So, I just replaced both parts of the boot and the air filter.. whynot.. but in the process.. a small vacuum(?) hose deteriorated and broke.. I bodged it back up with Duct tape for now... can anyone tell me where this goes? what it does? and difficulty to replace? Image attached.
 

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It goes to the fuel pressure regulator. It's just a vent line in case diaphragm in the regulator leaks so the leaking fuel has somewhere to go.
 

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2005 ZHP
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So, I just replaced both parts of the boot and the air filter.. whynot.. but in the process.. a small vacuum(?) hose deteriorated and broke.. I bodged it back up with Duct tape for now... can anyone tell me where this goes? what it does? and difficulty to replace? Image attached.
That one goes to the fuel filter. Don't remember the function but don't believe it's "don't-drive-the-car critical." FCP sells a replacement that is braided nylon over rubber and should last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Man I wish I came to this forum when I had my old E46... she might still be going now.. Thanks for the quick responses !!
 

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2004 325i automagic
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It's a short length (3 or 4 inches) of vacuum line that connects to a small hard plastic pipe, and at the other end connecting to the fuel pressure regulator there is again a short length of soft vacuum line.

Use a box cutter or small acrewdriver to carefully cut the old soft hose away (if it doesn't just crumble apart). The hard line in the middle should still be good.
 
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