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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone Im confused as to if I should run a cap on my upcoming system; here's the details on my amps:

SoundStream Van Gogh 320.4 (85x4) - Running CDT 5.25 Components and 6.5 rear fill speakers.

Cadence a7000 Sweet Poison (450x2 @ 2 Ohms, Built in 80A fuse, type A/B) - Running dual CDT 10" Subs.

If you do think I will need a cap can you please recommend the right size for me? Thanks alot!
 

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DarrenE46 said:
Hey everyone Im confused as to if I should run a cap on my upcoming system; here's the details on my amps:

SoundStream Van Gogh 320.4 (85x4) - Running CDT 5.25 Components and 6.5 rear fill speakers.

Cadence a7000 Sweet Poison (450x2 @ 2 Ohms, Built in 80A fuse, type A/B) - Running dual CDT 10" Subs.

If you do think I will need a cap can you please recommend the right size for me? Thanks alot!
your amps have caps built into the circuit topology, maybe a better battery should be the 1st thing, then if you are noticing some of the signs of problems (dimming lights and such) then get a 1 F cap. but in all honesty run it without to see how everything works first
 

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I believe Soundstream amps are unregulated, so yes, a cap will help.

There has been a lot of arguments on the benefits of an extra battery. It is somewhat costly (Prob at least $150) since you'll need an isolator, extra wiring and mounting hardware. Whereas a cap costs about $40 on Ebay.

I will tell you that an extra battery is okay, it will give you some more 12.6V juice. But, with an unregulated amp, you'll want to keep the voltage as close to the car's 14.4V (16V is you have a voltage regulator) as possible since you get a small gain in wattage and a large gain in efficiency...generally...your amp will run cooler when running at a higher voltage.

A cooler amp translates into a better sounding amp.

There also has been arguments on whether certain amps sound different. I will not discuss that here. But I will say that an amp that is far away from its thermal limit compared to an amp near its thermal limit will sound better.

BTW, I doubt that your cadence amp, which you say is Class A/B will put out 450wx2 with an 85 amp fuse rating. Usually, an A/B amp requires 12-15 amps per 100 watts RMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bigjae1976 said:
BTW, I doubt that your cadence amp, which you say is Class A/B will put out 450wx2 with an 85 amp fuse rating. Usually, an A/B amp requires 12-15 amps per 100 watts RMS.
I appreciate your concern about my amp, but trust me this thing is anything but overrated. I did some homework before I bought it, this is one of the old school Zed Audio built amps meaning its most likely underrated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help everyone, I think Im just going to try it w/o it at first. If I come across a problem I may install one.
 

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i would try it w/o it first...

currently pushing well over 1500w to my subs and ~400w to my fronstage. i do get some dimming, but its barely noticeable and only when im cranking it up, thats when i want to be ghetto!! :lmao:
 

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low said:
A cooler amp translates into a better sounding amp.
Its the other way around.

Class A amps displace maximum heat at any input or output level.

Needless to say they get pretty hot.
 

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There's just so much debate over the effectiveness of caps...

I think it might be best to avoid the "band-aid" (cap), and go straight to the source. Having your alternator rewound will strengthen your electrical system more than a cap will do--plus it's cheaper! :thumbup:
 

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where is the other ground?

i know there 1 next to the battery.. that wire is smaller than the power power... maybe you should try that..

thats something i might be doing..
 
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