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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Guys

I've been getting lots of help here and I decided to write Window regulator and wind noise fix especially for e46 coupe.

I never fixed my window regulator before and it took me more than 4 hours to do this job. First I didn't have right tools, second I was not familiar with window regulator DIY.

Please read through carefully and hope you can fix wind/rattle noise thru your window seal.

Here is the tools you need for this DIY.



First. You need to check the gap between your front window and rubber seal. (aka weather strip)





I had more than 3cm of gap and I hear constant wind noise when I am on the highway. It was very embarrassing and ambient temperature when down rapidly due to the gap between weather strip and window. So it was pretty hard for me to maintain constant in car temperature.

I thought it's because of worn out weather strip so I actually ordered a new window seal from Tischer. (BMW Toronto asked me to pay them $400 for the part only!!) Thank you Tischer. (http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...fo&PartID=468198&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462)

After I change my window sealing (weather strip) I thought I will no longer have noise/rattle problem between my window and strip.


Well I was facing exactly same problem even after I change the sealing.

Now I decided to change my window regulator because that might fix my problem. So I ordered both driver/passenger side window regulators and installed passenger side first.

I should've take some pictures while I am working on my passenger side window regulator but as I said above I didn't have right tools to take every part out and that lead me into panic mode :banghead:

So I will use driver side window regulator to explain this DIY.

Before you do this please disconnect your battery since you need to take out your side airbag.

Original Window regulator DIY for Sedan.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=356847

(pics from other DIY)








For coupe it's little bit different.


Here is Driver side window regulator.



now the driver side window will fit like this.



There is a hole on the window and there is a screw that you can tighten it.





You can't see a screw here because it's with my original window regulator. You have to re-use that screw. There is a black plastic part inside part A. That makes you able to move window back and forth.

In order to move window back and forth there are two screws involve. One from Part A and the other from Part B.

Also you can adjust window height.

Make sure you have less than 0.7cm of gap between window and sealing.









There is another way to adjust this without take door panel out but you won't be able to do this without understanding the mechanism.

Several people include myself asked why I keep hear wind noise when I go over +90km/h and no one seems they are able to answer it.

Hope all e46 coupe drivers can fix this problem.

My point is You can't fix problem by changing Window sealing (weather strip) so don't waste your money on that!
 

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the other way is in the bentley manual.. it requires you to remove the trim outside the door and use an extended hex screw or something along those lines. I dont have my manual on me right now so i cant give exact details. i havent tried it yet for mine but i intend to asap.
 

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Hi summit,

Thanks for a superb thread. There are a couple of details I'm unsure about I'd just like you to clarify if you could.

Here is the tools you need for this DIY.
Reading through the Bentley thread it seems you also need a Torx T20 bit if adjusting the screws from underneath for parallelism and depth of retraction ?

I had more than 3cm of gap and I hear constant wind noise when I am on the highway.
That's a huge gap, did you mean 3mm ?

For coupe it's little bit different.
You do need to "open here" on a UK coupe (RHD), that's where the mirror controls would be. Depending on your interior trim, you may or may not have to "open here" on your passenger side, my wood trim doesn't have a removeable cover there, my old grey plastic trim did. Rule is, if you have the small cover (or mirror switch) there you will need to pry it out, as there is probably a screw underneath it.

If I understand how the mechanism works correctly, the (top) screw you have circled to "move window back and forth to reduce gap" is the clamp screw that holds the glass in place. Once you have positioned the glass correctly (and repositioning may help of course), according to Bentley this should be tightened to 8Nm regardless. (and window-mounting screws have left hand thread) ? You cannot actually turn this screw to "adjust" rake. Any "adjustment" then made to this screw I imagine would just result in loose glass.

To adjust the inward rake of the window (what BMW call window pretension) you actually need to adjust the other screw (the one you can just see sticking out opposite the (top) one circled) "through the door" from the outside. It's not the "other" way, it's THE way of adjusting the rake. Thinking about this it makes sense, as you can more accurately judge the window's rake and sealing from the outside.

The height adjuster screw is the one Bentley claim is Torx T20 ?

Sorry if it seems like I'm nitpicking (I know how easy it is to get lost in the detail when composing technical threads, and trying to include everything). Let me say once more, this is a brilliant thread, many thanks for posting, threads like yours are the reason I think e46fanatics is such a great forum.

Cheers,

Tony.
 

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Here's the Coupe door removal diagram

I've taken the pics but didn't get round to posting my Coupe door panel removal DIY. As it's needed, I've improvised a quick guide for weisiong123 using his original pic.

I've added colour coded notations to the pic to make things clearer.


1 - RED dots: Here are the 5 Torx screw locations you need to undo.
First prise out "airbag" label (label is held by a plastic clip at each side, use a tiny screwdriver and prise towards you where black dots are, then pull to remove label).
Secondly, prise out the small black disc which covers a screw behind chrome door opening handle (pushing disc on one side to pivot or using a tiny screwdriver with a bent tip seems to works well)
Remove the now visible 5 torx screws, note length in case some are longer. (Hint: magnetise tip of screwdriver to assist removal / replacement of screws. Using a cordless on a low torque setting is quick).

2 - YELLOW A: Remove and disconnect mirror switch - (prise up from back with very thin screwdriver and pull switch upwards, unclip wiring connector.) (When refitting door panel remember to poke wire back through this hole before clipping panel on).

3 - GREEN dots: Using strong flat screwdrivers (or flat piece of metal / BMW tool if you have one ?) prise panel away from plastic clips. Use cloth or thin cardboard against leverage points to prevent marking if required.
Start at green X and work down then up vertical edge, then green Y and work along bottom edge, then green Z upwards.

4 - BLUE: Pull panel ONLY a couple of inches away from door at:
blue 1) towards you and upwards, then
blue 2) towards you and upwards
blue 3) from front top of door panel, working towards rear, pull the panel a couple of inches away from the door HORIZONTALLY towards you (DONT lift upwards yet, as you might with other cars) to disengage horizontal metal clips along top of door
blue 4) when horizontal metal clips along top of panel have been disengaged, now you may lift panel just enough to clear locking pin.

CAUTION: Only move the panel a couple of inches, you still have to disconnect the door handle lever cable.

5 - YELLOW B: disconnect door opening handle operating cable from behind door by releasing clip and swivelling white plastic connector out of handle connector.

Finally disconnect speaker wires if more clearance is required for working.

Peel back rubber moisture shield from top corner to view window regulator inside door.
 

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I’m not sure about the saloon but the coupe needs a T20 to remove the regulator and adjust the window.

That gap doesn’t look that big, what’s the avg gap people have on the coupe? Im having the same problem with wind noise at high speed but I reckon my window regulator was badly damaged when someone tried to pry my window out when trying to steal my car in recent weeks.

Has anyone had this problem as a result of attempted theft? i.e someone pulling the window of the coupe out in an attempt to get a bar/screwdriver onto the inside of the window?
 

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Have you fit new window regulators? Im not sure if that will work to be honest. Ive seen coupes with new regulators and the windows still have some degree of lateral movement.

It seems to be a problem with these cars, if you are having huge problems and there is a large degree of movement id replace the regulators. Start with the driver side first to see if the problem improves.
 

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Its a problem because I compared windows...driver and passenger side....so obvious my driver side wiggles more..could it be the rubber piece which holds my exterior chrome trim? cause the rubber piece is kinda beat out and does not hold the exterior trim in place well.
 

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I found the cause of my problem, when fitting the new regulator I noticed the window was not staying on one of the levers.

On the outer part of the regulator (Part A) where the window itself has the small round hole and white plastic plate (Coupe) This part is quite rattley at the best of times in the coupe.
It was jumping off the clip when rolled completely down into the door.

I reckon this was caused by the window seal in the door itself holding the window too tight and when fully down the window would jump off the carrier as it would be loose inside the door.

I have used a cable tie to hold the window to the clip on the regulator, I used my new regulator cus at that stage I had the window out of the car and I was comparing the regulators.

I also found quite a bit of broken glass inside the door and a large metal bolt that was causing the banging noise against the glass when the window was fully down. This was evidence that the car had seen glass in some past life and the job wasn’t done right, the regulator I had was fine which is a bit :banghead:
 

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Looking at this you need to adjust the height of your window as it dosent look to be going up height enough to give a good seal.

Also if you want to improve the lateral movement in your window you will need a new regulator as the small green parts of the regulator get worn out, in my case they got damaged when someone tried to break into my car.
 

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Hey irishbaz, recently someone broke into my car and broke the driver side window...got the window replaced by some glass company and since then i hear constant wind noise through the bottom part of the window...called the glass company and they tried to fix it..made a bit better but i can still hear wind noise and feel it...anyways i decided to take it to the stealer and they quoted me 1500$ for a new regualator and window sealing...insurance agreed to pay half the amount...the claim is still opened since i havent decided what to do...gonna try to take to a local shop to get it fixed....so ya i feel ur pain...
 

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I installed a new regulator. After installation the window would sometimes go down when opening the door sometimes not causing the window to hit the trim. It also rattled when driving on bumps when it was in fully up. Any suggestions on whats causing it. I have tightened and re adjusted a couple of times with no luck.
 

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Looking at this you need to adjust the height of your window as it dosent look to be going up height enough to give a good seal.

Also if you want to improve the lateral movement in your window you will need a new regulator as the small green parts of the regulator get worn out, in my case they got damaged when someone tried to break into my car.
Seems crazy to have to replace the entire assembly just for a broken 5 cent part. I'm trying to source some new green guides now.
 
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