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Discussion Starter #1
THIS IS A PRETTY EASY JOB, IT TOOK ME A COUPLE OF HOURS BECUASE I TORE THE VACUUM HOSE AND DROPPED A NUT IN THE CAMSHAFT BAY. LUCKILY I GOT IT OUT. HERE IT IS WITH PICTURES.

TOOLS NEEDED:

-10MM SOCKET
-8MM SOCKET
-SCREW DRIVER
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1. I TOOK OFF THE CABIN FILTER, THERES 3 TWIST-OFF SCREWS FOR THE COVER THE REMOVE THE FILTER. HERES WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE WITH EVERYTHING OFF.



2. TO REMOVE THE FILTER HOUSING, THERES (4) #30 TORX SCREWS. ALSO UNCLIP THE PLASTIC THAT HOLDS THE WIRES.



3. POP OUT THESE LITTLE COVERS AND REMOVE THE ENGINE COVER USING 10MM SOCKET



4. HERES THE ENGINE COVER REMOVED, THEN DISCONNECT THE PLUGS FROM THE COILS BY POPPING THE METAL CLIP. THEN REMOVE THE COILS USING 10MM SOCKET



5. BETWEEN THE 3RD AND 4TH CYLINDERS, REMOVE THE RED WIRE USING 8MM SOCKET

 

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Discussion Starter #2
6. ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, THERES A GRIP OF WIRES YOU GOTTA UNCLIP SO IT WONT GET IN YOUR WAY LATER



7. REMOVE THE VENT PIPE, PINCHING THE TOP AND BOTTOM LIKE THIS



8. ON THE FIRST AND LAST CYLINDERS THERE ARE GROUND WIRES THAT GOTTA BE REMOVED USING 8MM



9. GO AROUND THE COVER AND REMOVE (15) 10MM BOLTS, 3 ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PICTURE ARENT SHOWN. THE BOLTS COME WITH A RUBBER BUSHING AND METAL WASHER

 

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Discussion Starter #4
10. USING A SCREW DRIVER, PRY UP THE VALVE COVER. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH THE VACUUM HOSE, THEY ARE DRY FROM ALL THE HEAT AND CAN BE EASILY TORN. I TORE MINE BUT FIXED IT BACK UP AFTERWARDS



11. HERE IT IS WITH THE COVER REMOVED, LITTLE BIT OF SLUDGE BUT NOT ALOT



12. GET THESE OFF TOO



13. PUT EVERYTHING BACK AND TORQUE 89 INCH POUNDS WHICH IS AROUND 7FT-LBS I THINK
 

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Nice writeup! How many miles on the engine?
 

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If you wanted to clean the sludge and the dust off the inside...how would you go about it? Could you spary carburetor cleaner or a rag or what would you do ?
 

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valve cover gasket

I just changed my valve cover gasket yesterday. Oddly, mine had failed prematurely when I first bought it used at 30k miles. I drove the last 16k miles trying to diagnose an annoying rubber/oil burning odor. Anyway, I agree, the procedure is actually quite straightforward and i finished the entire job in 3 hrs even though this was the first time I ever worked on my bimmer!

Here's another excellent writeup that another list member posted some time ago:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/valve.php
 

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wat a question... 100300.. goin 2 school and work then a little joyriding. i avg almost 100 miles a day.
HeeHee, I've got 121k+ on mine. I wonder how much sludge I've got inside my engine....
 

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Wonder if this will fix my oil burning problem. Too much oil is being burnt and I gotta monitor oil almost every week.

My car is a 330xi 2001 with 210,000KM

Nice write up!
Sergio
 

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Wonder if this will fix my oil burning problem. Too much oil is being burnt and I gotta monitor oil almost every week.

My car is a 330xi 2001 with 210,000KM

Nice write up!
Sergio
If you ever smell oil burning after you take a hard lefthand corner then it's your valve cover (or cam cover) gasket.
 

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nice diy
 

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I don't get it..
everyone says it took like 3 hours or less.. When I did it it took more than a weekend.. well i admit it was getting kinda cold up here in Canada and daylight was sparse.

it took me forever to clean everything and the I degreased the valvecover.
and sprayed it down.. that alone takes like 5 hours to dry in the cold.

did you guys just put the cover back on without cleaning it?
 

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I have taken out all the bolts and none of the wiring is in the way but the valve cover seems to be extremely hard to take off.

I am kind of soft while prying with a screw driver; do I need to be somewhat aggressive while pulling off the valve cover?
 

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I Followed this DIY and its an excellent write up. Took me about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete. I did not use any gasket sealer anywhere because I was told by several BMW mechanics that it is not needed. My vacuum hose also broke but it was an easy fix with some extra I had laying around. After you are finished replacing all the gaskets and torquing down all the nuts/bolts, get the engine up to temperature, let it idle for several minutes, check for leaks, kill the engine, and the re-torque everything. 76,000 miles on my 2001 325i and virtually had no sludge. Oil changes were all done when the oil change light came on. I'll probably knock that in half starting now just to avoid any future problems.
 
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