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You know, I think I should give you guys new instructions on how to change the ZCS. It's very easy if you have NCS Expert.

  1. Load NCS Expert
  2. Click file -> Choose Profile. Pick the Expert mode profile (sometimes referred to Expertmodus or something along those lines)


  3. Click ZCS/FA f. ECU. Select E46. Then select either the EWS or KMB. Click okay. NCS will now read the ZCS (GM, SA, VN) from the module you selected.



  4. Click "Enter ZCS". Click "okay" when it shows you the chassis and then VIN (don't worry if the characters don't match exactly). Now you'll be at the ZCS screen.
  5. You'll see 3 fields - GM, SA, VN. For the E46, you need to subtract 8 from the second to last digit of the SA string (so if it's 8, it be comes 0. 9 ->1, A > 2, B->3, etc.). Then remove the last digit from all 3 lines, click the box for "recalculate checksum" and hit OK.


  6. Click Back
  7. Click Process ECU
  8. Select your KMB module.


  9. Click "Change Job" and select "ZCS_SCHRIEBEN" (or sometimes "ZCS_WRITE" with some modules)

    • Optional: Select the EWS and do the same ZCS_SCHRIEBEN job to that as well
  10. Now click back or restart NCS Expert
  11. Click FG/ZCS/FA
  12. Read the ZCS from the KMB to verify that the changes took
  13. click back again
  14. Hit process car


  15. Wait a couple minutes for all the modules to be recoded back to their defaults (for the new ZCS)
Done.

This is all DIS/GT1 does when you change the ZCS. It just takes a hell of a lot longer with DIS.

After this, the only other thing you should need to do is clear the adaptions on your DME (assuming the transmission harness is already disconnected). If your DME is out of date, you may as well updated it with WinKFP while you're at it (not in the scope of this DIY)
 

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Re: DIY: **The New Unofficial Auto ----> 5 speed swap** Lots of pictures!!!

Thanks for the guide on how to do this with ncs expert. Doing a swap as we speak and this thread had been my Bible through the process:thumbup:

Sent from my SGH-I317 using BimmerApp mobile app
 

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I'm about to order all of my parts to do this swap, but I had a question for you guys, did you guys run your own wires for things like the reverse lights?
 

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Update for me...

I coded my car using decoder 0.3 and NCS Expert. My car now thinks its a manual. I didn't do any DME alignment mostly because SSS wont work for me and I am lost on how to align it otherwise. I don't even know if it matters. If anyone has any insight on this let me know.

Now my traction control works but my Cruise won't come on at all. I imagine this is because I didn't wire either of the clutch switches. I have a 99 and the swap kit was from a 99 and I have no clue on how to wire up the 2x 3 wire switches, as there are no diagrams for that set up. Has anyone ever figured this out?

Otherwise the car is doing great, I drive 120 miles a day mostly highway and cruise would be nice...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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:thumbdwn:Update!

While looking around in the GM5 coding with NCS Dummy I noticed a "Touring Functions" Option that was disabled. I enabled it and now my cruise works... Didn't even wire the clutch switches up yet.

I already ordered the pigtails so I will just do it anyway, I was already in the habit of braking before pushing the clutch in while using cruise but it'll be nice for it to work properly.

Its exciting that my car is fully a manual now aside from the clutch switches and reverse switch. Thanks to this thread mostly!

I really appreciate everyone's input on this thread!!!:excited:

Edit: Scratch the touring function thing.... I noticed with that enabled it said my trunk was open in my dash... I disabled it and that error went away but cruise still enables... I don't know what the hell I did at this point to be honest.:thumbdwn: Don't really care at this point if the cruise works.
 

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Need your assistance here guys. Especially @terraphantm.

I have been asked to help code a friends 01' E46 that has been converted to a manual as well. The persons that did the conversion of course did the swap the simpler way and did not hook up the clutch switch or any of the wiring required to do the conversion properly as stated in this thread. The persons have also installed the KMB out of the donor vehicle, so now the "tamper dot" is illuminated as well. Vehicle seems to run properly but the traction control illuminates after about 5mph.

Here is the screenshots of the EWS info:



Screenshot of KMB info:



My questions for the experienced out there are;

A. In your step 5 above, it is mentioned that to read the EWS and change the last digit of the SA (3) to a (B). Then to write this adjusted SA to the entire vehicle. Would this screw up the KMB as the FG doesn't match?

B. Need to also clarify if I drop the last digit (3) all together and change the (8) to (0)?

C. Should I try to change the FG of the KMB first using PA Soft before trying to write to it using NCS?

Your input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
 

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A) Don't change the last digit to B. The last digit is a checksum. Remove the last digit from all 3 lines (SA, GM, VN), then modify your SA
B) Change the 8 to 0 (previously was the 2nd to last digit, now is the last digit).
C) If the mileage of the cluster is lower than what the car came with, then yeah, give it a shot. If it's higher, don't, because otherwise all the other modules will set themselves to that mileage. Probably not a big deal if it's only a couple thousand off, but it'd be a shame to have a 50k mile car read as 120k or something.

Edit: Actually, both SAs are the same. Either you got extremely lucky and both cars had the same options (doubtful), or one was copied to the other.

What happened to the original cluster?
 

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Thanks for the response. Not quite sure what happened to the original cluster but I tried to change the mileage today but it would not do it. (something about a particular chip installed) Donor cluster had approximately 27k/km more than the ews was reporting. I have read that you can program up but not down (mileage), so I guess they are stuck with the tamper dot for now.

As for coding the vehicle, I should be able to just follow your instructions? (Thanks for the more detailed steps)

In you instructions it mention to write to the KMB then check to see if it takes then if successful process the entire vehicle. "Optional" to do this to the EWS as well then process the vehicle. Can I just write to EWS instead then process the vehicle as KMB still has different FG number? (Does it make a difference?)

I tried writing vehicle FG to KMB today and it would not take it. Seems I have a little researching to do. I have done it once before but I think I need to find the guide online again to make sure I was doing it right.

I apologize for the tedious questions but I want to make sure I don't mess something up by mistake.

Thanks for taking the time to help out.
 

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Alright, so I got to change the SA,GM,VN as per the instructions above. I closed NCS and opened again and the changes took. My question is now about step 14 and 15.

A. When I hit process car, another set of boxes at the bottom show and should I click on the box that says "code car"?

B. Should the job name still equal sg codieren?

C. When I enter the adaptations screen in INPA there are about 7-8 different adaptions that can be cleared. Do I clear all or just a specified few?

Your help would be appreciated.
 

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Need more help from the members.

I have programmed the vehicle correctly as per the guide above. Did run into some other items that had to be addressed (KMB,LEW) but those have now been coded properly as well. Car runs fine but now but after about 50 miles of driving I get a error code of P1895 (manufacturer control Code for trans(auto)) I thought that after coding the vehicle to think it is a manual that the DME would no longer be looking for any sort of auto transmission signals? Is there still something I am missing?

I have double checked that the GM/SA/VN are all matching but under EWS it still says automatic.



Is the EWS supposed to report as manual as well? Need to mention that VIN has been fixed to match on the cluster since picture was taken.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Wiring in the early e46 clutch switches (Two Switches no module)

:thumbdwn:Update!

While looking around in the GM5 coding with NCS Dummy I noticed a "Touring Functions" Option that was disabled. I enabled it and now my cruise works... Didn't even wire the clutch switches up yet.

I already ordered the pigtails so I will just do it anyway, I was already in the habit of braking before pushing the clutch in while using cruise but it'll be nice for it to work properly.

Its exciting that my car is fully a manual now aside from the clutch switches and reverse switch. Thanks to this thread mostly!

I really appreciate everyone's input on this thread!!!:excited:

Edit: Scratch the touring function thing.... I noticed with that enabled it said my trunk was open in my dash... I disabled it and that error went away but cruise still enables... I don't know what the hell I did at this point to be honest.:thumbdwn: Don't really care at this point if the cruise works.
Alright, so after awhile my cruise quit turning on, and I should mention it never actually worked it would just enable. I got pigtails for my clutch switches and wired them up. I had to do a bit of guessing along with the known info. So here it is, if you have two clutch switches and no module on the master cylinder this is how you wire it up.

The top switch with the blue connector -

Purple with yellow stripe wire goes to the purple with yellow stripe wire on the brake switch

Brown with black stripe wire goes to the brown with black stripe wire on the brake switch

Blue with brown stripe wire goes to pin 23 on the DME


The bottom switch with the red connector -

Purple with white stripe wire goes to the purple with yellow stripe wire on the brake switch

Brown with black stripe wire goes to the brown with black stripe wire on the brake switch

Blue with black stripe wire goes to pin 8 on the EWS


I have gone out and drove the car and the cruise does in fact work 100% if I push the clutch in it cancels if I push the brake it cancels.
I also have to push the clutch in to start the car. If you want to be able to start the car without pushing the clutch I would highly recommend you just program it to do that. I do believe you would connect the pin 8 from the EWS to the Purple/Yellow wire on the brake switch though to bypass the push clutch to start.:thumbsup:


Edit: I also wanted to mention that after I wired these in and started the car, shut it off then started it again the cruise would finally enable. It appears that if the DME doesn't get the input it wants from the switches it ultimately doesn't allow you to turn on the 1st step to cruise. This is why after a short period of time I was no longer able to make the cruise light on the dash turn on. I hope that makes sense.
 

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Hey guys I need help, my 2000 323i doesnt have any markings on the auto transmission plug and I need to jump pins 2 and 8 to get it started. The post neil had with the pdf shows the link isnt working.


Thanks!
 

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hello guys. although I am showing as a new member I was on here a lot about 3 years ago. but unfortunately I have forgotten my user name and password. but if I did know my username I would have no chance of getting my password as I changed email a while back as well.

I have a 323ci manual complete and also a 325i sport auto. I came across this thread last week when I was looking at changing the auto to a manual. my plans include using all the parts from the 323 manual (checked on realoem and all parts are the same from the 323 as what would be fitted to the 325 if it came as a manual.

so if I swap all the manual parts over how complicated are the electrics? I need to wire up a set of wires to the fuse box for the reverse lights, but what about the electrics to get the car to start? what do I do about the autos transmission ecu? and is there some thing in the cars ecu that I need to change? I think in America the ecu is the dme

the local bmw technician said its a massive job that is to complicated due to the wiring looms ect. can you give me some advice please. I looked at Ivegotissues666 thread on this but most of the pictures are no longer there.
thanks in advance.
 

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Is the EWS supposed to report as manual as well? Need to mention that VIN has been fixed to match on the cluster since picture was taken.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
No, EWS doesn't need to report manual. In reality, the "auto/manual" switch is actually a parameter that dictates whether or not the park/neutral interlock is enabled. In the US, that parameter is indeed enabled and tied to the clutch switch. So every US car will report itself as "automatic"
 

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hello guys. although I am showing as a new member I was on here a lot about 3 years ago. but unfortunately I have forgotten my user name and password. but if I did know my username I would have no chance of getting my password as I changed email a while back as well.

I have a 323ci manual complete and also a 325i sport auto. I came across this thread last week when I was looking at changing the auto to a manual. my plans include using all the parts from the 323 manual (checked on realoem and all parts are the same from the 323 as what would be fitted to the 325 if it came as a manual.

so if I swap all the manual parts over how complicated are the electrics? I need to wire up a set of wires to the fuse box for the reverse lights, but what about the electrics to get the car to start? what do I do about the autos transmission ecu? and is there some thing in the cars ecu that I need to change? I think in America the ecu is the dme

the local bmw technician said its a massive job that is to complicated due to the wiring looms ect. can you give me some advice please. I looked at Ivegotissues666 thread on this but most of the pictures are no longer there.
thanks in advance.
It's not too difficult. Use the clutch, flywheel, and driveshaft from the 323. Wire up the clutch switch to where the park/neutral signal would go on the EWS (I think Nervous' 6spd swap has more details on this part). Remove the rest of the auto harness, and clear the adaptions from the DME. The car should start
 

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It's not too difficult. Use the clutch, flywheel, and driveshaft from the 323. Wire up the clutch switch to where the park/neutral signal would go on the EWS (I think Nervous' 6spd swap has more details on this part). Remove the rest of the auto harness, and clear the adaptions from the DME. The car should start
Thanks. You make it sound so easy. can you clear adaptions in inpa? or do I need ncs? is there not some where I need to change to tell the car it is a manual instead of automatic?
 

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few questions terra:

after step 9 I'm assuming you want to hit execute job to take the changes...which i did.. both on KMB and EWS

when I get to step 14 process car i hit that then hit code car... the problem I am running into is a fault in the abg where it cannot clear any codes within it so i believe the whole process is failing.

Car still shows gear indication and CEL for various transmission faults.

IPNA also cannot clear any codes from the airbag module.

Any help would be appreciated thanks!
 
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