I have read in the past that it is possible to get off center when the steering wheel is not locked in place but unsure about your issue.It was locked, it's not off very much. So is the steering rack is keyed correct? Is it possible to get off a tooth on the rack side?
You can buy solid aluminum guibos but then you get more harshness going into the steering wheel. You don't get that butter smooth bimmer feel. The rubber itself is not the problem. It's the looseness around the rivets.Has anyone one thought about making the rubber flexible joint on the steering column fixed?
So in between the 2 UJ's just weld on a few bits of metal over the shroud to the shaft to stop the rubber moving. It seems very slack even moving it by hand, but image going 100 mph over a bumpy road, there would be a lot of play. No wonder the car is all over the place on bumpy surfaces.
I was not able to just slide the new one completely on by hand. For the bottom, once I got it started, I used my long screwdriver as sort of a reverse pry bar to push it down.Has anyone had an issue putting the coupler back on? When I tried to install the new one it only went half way on to the steering rack and stopped. Please help
I'm having the same issue(also have stock sport suspension) and have replaced the cab and tie rod ends. Was going to do the coupler and hope it fixed it, but maybe not. Thinking my old worn/blown shocks aren't helping either. Would be nice to have a solution to this.My 2005 325i (90k miles) likes to wander a bit and pull for the ruts/seams, etc. in the road (is this tramlining?). It has the sport suspension. The LCABs and tie rods were already replaced by a repair shop. Had an expensive alignment put on it too, which didn't solve the issue. Alignment shop said while various parts had a bit of wear here and there, there was nothing worn enough that they would recommend throwing money at it. Thought I'd try the steering coupler myself since it's such an inexpensive repair and appeared to be a DIY.