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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
To start off, If you do anything to hurt or damage you or your car I am not to be held responsible. Proceed at your own risk.

Parts needed:
- steering coupler
P/N
Up to 4/2001- 32306752957
From 4/2001- 32301094703

^Part number 2 in picture above^

Tools needed:
- car ramps
- 12" socket extension
- 16mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 8mm socket or inverse torx
- 14" straight slot screw driver
- hammer
- Thread locker blue or red
- PB blaster
- #2 Phillips screw driver

lets begin....

1. Start by putting your car up on ramps making sure that your wheels are straight.


2. Lock your steering wheel in the straight position. This will stop you from wrecking your alignment.


3. Get under the car and remove the cover under the engine and the brace that goes across the car.
cover under engine-

Remove the screws and pop rivets

brace that goes under car-

There are 8 size 16mm bolts that hold this to the car.

Next we need to locate the steering coupler. The picture below was taken from the drivers side just behind the front tire.


4. You need to remove the 2 bolts on the steering coupler. This is where the 8mm socket or inverse torx come in. Also i found it helpful to have a 12" extension to get the wrench to where there is more room to turn.


The bolts look like this


5. Once the bolts are remove spray PB blaster on the coupler where it connects to the steering rack.


now let the PB blaster do its job


6. Next is where the big a$$ straight slot screw driver comes in handy. Take the screw driver and hammer and hit the coupler up toward the steering wheel. This takes a lot of effort and you can also move the steering rack if it helps for you, to remove the steering rack, take out the 2 15mm bolts that hold it to the car.

Big A$$ screw driver


The steering column is telescopic so it will move up as you hit the coupler off the steering rack.


7. Now that the old coupler is off we can clean up the spot where we sprayed the PB blaster then reinstall the new one. Make sure we put thread locker on the bolts before putting them back.


When putting the coupler back, the side that hooks to the steering rack has a slot that fits in the coupler so that you cant mess up your alignment. Also the side on the steering column has a notch in it where the bolt slides through.

Old vs. New-


Install is just the reverse of above.

Make sure to let the thread locker dry properly and then you can take your car out and enjoy nice, tight steering again.

Now enjoy some-

I do not condone drinking and driving so make sure you enjoy this AFTER you have test drove your car.

Go easy on me this is my first DIY write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think you have to mark it before you take out old coupler otherwise the steering wheel turns and it is Hard to alighn it. That is what happened to me.
That is what the second step solves. You need to lock your wheel and your alignment won't be messed up. Like take the key out then shake the steering wheel till it locks.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
how loose was your steering and how did it feel afterwards?
my fcabs are fairly new i have new suspension.
my steering has maybe 1/2" play. possibly less.
i'm not sure if this is normal or if it can be improved.
That is about what mine had. I changed this and everything feels new again. Its worth doing, trust me.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I replaced my coupler yesterday using this DIY. I also replaced the bolts (which had threadlocker already on them).

The DIY was so well done that it all went off without a hitch. The only difference was I didn't need PB Blaster. Considering the car has 133K, mine came off with relative ease. It took longer to get the car up and secure than it did taking off the coupler!

As far as how the car feels, I noticed the biggest difference on the highway ... it wants to stay in the lane I'm in. :D

Follow all the steps mentioned and you shouldn't have any troubles.

Thanks snowborder142190 :thumbsup:
Thanks! Also you can reuse the bolts even though they have thread locker on them.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
snowborder142190,
can you tell me what kind of ramps you're using?
it looks like a hybrid ramp/lift.
i would like to get a set for myself. looks like it would be VERY useful.
thanks
They do something like 6 different things. They are really nice. I purchased them from autozone about 6 months ago for around $100. I'll see if I can find a link to some online for you.

Edit: here is the link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-Truck-and-ATV-steel-ramp-kit/_/N-25g3?counter=8&filterByKeyWord=Ramp&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=875210_0_0_
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Fabulous job. I'm annoyed the squeaking from the steering, dealer told me a coupler replacement would help. I cannot believe you've completed it like a easy job. Can I follow it on a XI? XI has a much higher part price $170, comparing $40 on other models.
I am not quite sure if the xi are the same but I can check it out when we do your vanos seals :hi:


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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My steering wheel "shakes" back and forth a little bit between 60-70MPH. I have replaced control arms, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, wheel bearings, and sway bar end links with no change. Would this coupler be my problem?
It could be the problem but Likely it is a bent or out of balance rim.


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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
hmmmm....wondering now if mines need to be replaced. So the symptoms of a bad coupler is car drifting to the left or right? anything else.

Great DIY!
It just seems like you have a lot of play in your steering that is how I can best describe it. If it is the original and it has gone 80k miles it's a safe bet it needed to be replaced. Very easy diy and only costs 40 dollars.


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