Does the Seat Doctors Dye seal the leather so it can no longer be treated/conditioned like leather?
I'm almost positive that you can still add conditioner to the seats, I'll double check the bottle when I get home. It may even be on their web site...Does the Seat Doctors Dye seal the leather so it can no longer be treated/conditioned like leather?
Matt - Yes, in two places I used some 3M epoxy and 'glued' a 2"x3" piece of vinyl under the crack. One large rip in the drivers bottom seat cushion and one in the drivers side bolster. The filler isn't strong enough to hold those large rips together. If you can see the foam or the leather is so thin that if feels like it will rip at any moment, you need some reinforcement below. Once you add the vinyl, will hold everything together tight and then you can fill in the cracks.That turned out great! I've been eyeing Colourlock's kit, but this seems like a cheaper alternative.
Did you use the Viper filler on the larger hole on the bolster, or did you have to use any other materials there? I have a large crack that's gotten bigger and am curious if I can just get away with using a filler to close it up versus using a patch or some other means.
This is helpful, thank you! Good to know about the small patch being placed under the tear.Matt - Yes, in two places I used some 3M epoxy and 'glued' a 2"x3" piece of vinyl under the crack. One large rip in the drivers bottom seat cushion and one in the drivers side bolster. The filler isn't strong enough to hold those large rips together. If you can see the foam or the leather is so thin that if feels like it will rip at any moment, you need some reinforcement below. Once you add the vinyl, will hold everything together tight and then you can fill in the cracks.
On the blown out bolster, used some extra epoxy to keep it all hard and firm. I went over it 7-8 times with light coats of the Viper filler building it all back up. In order to make the seam and stitching look somewhat correct and match the bolster groove above and below the filler, I took some 80 and 120 Grit sand paper and sanded a groove into the filler so it looked like a seam. Once it was all sanded smooth and shaped, I went over it with 4-5 coats of Dye. Its not perfect but 90% of the people looking at it wouldn't notice it.
Mark - I did give Seat Doctor my VIN and I had a code that my BMW dealer gave me (N6TT). To me the seat color is more of a Silver. Anyway, Andy at Seat Dr. said it was his 'off the shelf' color of Grey with no custom blending. I did a color match on both front seats and in two places on my back seat and it was 100% dead match.Nice results! The color match looks really good, was that a custom matched dye, or did you just buy the standard BMW gray based on interior code?
I'm also interested to see how it holds up. For 100 bucks though even if you had to add more dye every few years that would be worth it.
Good to know, thanks for the info. I've got a gray sport seat with the same color code in my wagon that could use a similar repair. That is great their stock BMW color is a dead on match and they didn't have to custom blend anything.Mark - I did give Seat Doctor my VIN and I had a code that my BMW dealer gave me (N6TT). To me the seat color is more of a Silver. Anyway, Andy at Seat Dr. said it was his 'off the shelf' color of Grey with no custom blending. I did a color match on both front seats and in two places on my back seat and it was 100% dead match.
the problem is that dye dy dye ( 😅 ) you will loose totally the natural leather "grain" making it quite ugly. And adding layers to layers won't assure you a perfect adhesion and a potential major tendency to cracks in the leather above.Nice results! The color match looks really good, was that a custom matched dye, or did you just buy the standard BMW gray based on interior code?
I'm also interested to see how it holds up. For 100 bucks though even if you had to add more dye every few years that would be worth it.
our leather hopefully is way better than BMW new ones: if well mantained, the "grain" is still present, so is mine on the non scratched parts.After 22 years and 100K miles, that natural leather 'grain' is long gone. If leather is properly cleaned and lightly sanded, the dye should soak in work just fine. Yes, it will need a 'refresh' down the road but that is to be expected. Brand new Mercedes and BMW's with 30K miles need the leather refreshed. Just ask any OEM Dealership what they do to their Certified pre-owned cars and the detail work they put into them.
So far the dye and seats show no wear. Keep in mind that our Georgia weather has been cold and raining so I'm not driving the car much. The next 4-5 months will be the real test. As for the Glossy look, the photos I took under the garage LED lights didn't help. They look less glossy in the car and outside in the regular day light. Now, I've been told that if I 'blot' or 'dab' the dye on the leather vs more of swipe and drag process, it would have come out with more of the Matt finish. If I do touch them up, I'll try the Dab-Dab method. So far, I'm pretty pleased with my $100 spend.How is the dye holding up? I've dyed my seats a few times, doesn't last long long. Feels like it needs to be done every year. Your dye also appears to be a little glossy, isn't it supposed to be a matt finish?