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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There was a post somewhere and i thought i would just add my pics to it, but can't seem to find it.

This a very easy DIY, you only need a screwdriver, 10mm socket and 1/4 wrench. You also need BMW part number 11121438086 and this is a blanking plate.
I was removing it to make room for a oil separator and because other than reducing emissions on a cold start, it serves no purpose.

Once done i started it up and got no EML. Mines is Euro car with a remap many years ago. Pictures are pretty self explanatory, excuse the dirty engine, valve cover gasket needs replaced and I cleaned up the area around the valver with degreaser to make it easier to remove, hence it all looks wet.

Web address for the photo bucket album since the links don't work anymore:
http://s128.photobucket.com/user/oz_striker/library/E46 Secondary Air Pump Delete



As stock:




Disconnect hose to pump and valve:



Remove 10mm screws on bracket for pump.



This frees up the pump, tilt it and disconnect the electrical connector




Remove smaller vacuum hose (this comes from the intake manifold i believe). This hose is more brittle, so just be a little careful taking it off, incase you wanted to return to stock config.



10mm socket on short extension, gets at the 2 nuts holding the valve on to the engine.



Removed:




Not too dirty, unlike my leaking valve cover gasket engine:




The blanking plate:




And with it installed. Use something to block off the small tube that was disconnected from the valve:




Tape up the electrical connector and remove the remaining bracket from the strut tower, and you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How would removing the pump for a car that is driven in cold weather affect the performance/drive? I'm in NYC and we get winters near 0F and below.
I wont have any affect on performance (positive or negative), AFAIK it basically takes air from the intake to heat up the cats a little faster, hence reducing start up emissions. It only runs for 20secs or so at start up.
I read one person here or on E39 section at bimmerforums mention that it could result in fouling of O2 sensors.... not sure how though
 

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Thanks for the DIY Oz. I did this yesterday and it was very easy. Took no more than 10 min to complete. Haven't started the car up yet since its in pieces. I'm still waiting on Todd from RiotRacing to send out my BBTB lol. Its been almost 3 months.


Plus plug that vacuum tube up+

What vacuum tube are you talking about? I didn't cap anything off.
 

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How would removing the pump for a car that is driven in cold weather affect the performance/drive? I'm in NYC and we get winters near 0F and below.
never had it in any on my previous BMW
Ny weather is the same of Tuscany (maybe here is colder)
Never had problems in cold start.


the secondary is only for emissions at start up..

obviously if you remove that you've to deal with possible problems on emission tests
 

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I wont have any affect on performance (positive or negative), AFAIK it basically takes air from the intake to heat up the cats a little faster, hence reducing start up emissions. It only runs for 20secs or so at start up.
I read one person here or on E39 section at bimmerforums mention that it could result in fouling of O2 sensors.... not sure how though
it generates its own air (hence air PUMP) and dumps that through the valve that is opened up by the vacuum hose during cold starts. it runs for 90 seconds and then turns off, providing extra combustion to heat up the 02 sensors so that your vehicle goes from open loop (basic parameters) to closed loop (reading from sensors) faster.

where did you get the block off plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
is this smog legal in California? check engine light?
No check engine light comes on at least on Euro map cars. you could always disconnect the electrical connector, thus disabling the secondary air pump and see if a check engine light comes on.
 

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I like to idle for at least a minute in 0-10 F in the morning inside the garage so I actually like my SAP. Don't see any benefits deleting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I like to idle for at least a minute in 0-10 F in the morning inside the garage so I actually like my SAP. Don't see any benefits deleting it.
Yeah sure I do the same, rather a fast idle, but to circulate a little oil round the engine before moving off. But the SAP plays no part in this, just warms up the cats a little faster for quicker emissions control, and I will probably need the space for an oil separator.
 

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EU cars do not have it. It will give you a CEL. Flashing the ECU to the Euro 2 software will remove it. Daniel F in the tuning section has said his tuning can do this without the Euro flash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)

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Here is 330CI which was sold new in Germany.
SAP is there.
I have had this pump like 4-5 different E46 cars. In Europe.

So that is not correct if you think there is no SAP pumps in EU cars.
I dont have any interest to delete SAP, i like my cars original.

 

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I would like to add that my car is an European version and it didn’t came with this air pump system, the blocking plate was installed from factory and its not needed for anything else than helping with emissions.
 

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The primary function of the SAP system is to extend the life of catalytic converters. Pouring raw gasoline through a cat is a quick way to kill it. The SAP system only functions when the DME is commanding an excessively rich mixture on cold start. AT the same time the DME commands the SAP to pump air into the exhaust system so the excess gas is burned before the flow carries it into the cats. If you have catalytic converters and you delete this system they will fail prematurely.
 
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