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· OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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just went to PowerFlex's website. They say to use their Copper based grease to resist heat and keep constant viscosity. They also say Anti-seize loses it's lubrication properties over time. :yikes:
http://store.powerflexusa.com/powerflex-copper-impregnated-grease-packet-p1145.aspx

The Powerflex copper impregnated grease is the only lubricant we suggest for long, squeak free operation.
The lubricant contains copper than resists heat and keeps the lubricant at a more constant viscosity to
allow it to stay in the bushing as temperatures increase. The lubricant also does not lose it's lubrication properties
over time like a anti-seize type lubricant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 · (Edited)
My garage queen has no squeaks but it doesn't get alot of use. My 530 daily driver on the other hand had powerflex front thrust arm bushings which just began to squeak after 50K with the same copper antiseize. 50K is the most mileage Ive seen without a squeak in my many years of using similar bushing.

I'd use whatever is proven to last the longest. I can vouch for 50k on a front end in extreme weather. If the green stuff previously mentioned has seen more miles, I'd use that.

Luky has passed the 4 year mark, his post was 4/2011......he can hopefully chime in on mileage. Then again he lives in San Diego, I think they see 1/4 inch of rain a year! ;)

I have had the powerflex RTABs installed for almost 3 years now. No squeaks, no problems, handles great... And I don't have to worry about changing them again after another 20k miles... I think you just have to be generous where you put the anti-seize. I covered everything that might touch the PU surfaces of the RTABs and plenty between the RTAB disks. (Powerflex bushings come in two pieces shaped like a "top hat". The "brims" of the "top hats" act as limiters when they are installed.
 

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Sorry meant to post this in this thread but also posted in another thread. not trying to double post :)

Ok.I think I'm going attempt the RTAB . I'm reading about having to preload unless I get the powerflex.
Can someone tell me how the powerflex feels for normal day to day driving. I don't
want a hard feel every bump ride , will the powerflex give me this ride?
So preloading is pretty much tightening the center bolt while measuring from center hub
to top of fender which the DIY below explains. Doesn't seem like a big deal but if powerflex provides a good ride
I rather go with that. I was thinking of ordering the Meyle HD rears on BMA for like 18 bucks.

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...placement.html

also the power flex below seem to not have that metal around the rubber bushing. I do see a slotted part.
where it be obvious where that slot needs to be lined up to the housing bracket?

http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...-rtab-p91.aspx
 

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If you like oem ride and comfort.....STICK TO OEM BMW!!!!! They are improved and should last you 60 to 70 K miles
Forget about MEYLE,RE, Powerflex as they will ride harder with more road feel...not bad, definitely more sporty feeL, but not as as smooth as OEM
I have used all of above and speak from experience.

THE PRICE DIFFERENCE OF THE PARTS IS RELATIVELY NEGLIGIBLE FOR SOMETHING YOU WILL USE FOR 50k PLUS MILES
 

· OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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26,196 Posts
I put Meyle hd in the front and it feels pretty good
. might put those or oem in the rear. It doesn't matter if
I mix and match right?
If you have Meyle HD in the front and want a firmer but still compliant ride then I would stick with rubber and go up to M3 rear bushings then. if you want it even softer than go oe bmw non-m. anything new at this point if the others are worn will give you an improved feel. but the M3 ones i feel are just enough of an upgrade here that someone not wanting polyurethane would enjoy it.

(the UUC ones i have installed make me happy with no unwanted side effects at this point).
 

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I called a local bmw mechanic which is highly recommended around here and he says preloading is just tightening the bolts
while the weight of the car is in place. So if I have my car on ramps will tightening the bolts isn't that preloading it? or will it not be possible to get the trailing arm back in place with the weight of the car on it, thus, needing the special tool or using the straight edge approach?
 

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you can't access the bolt to tighten with the weight on the car. this is why you need a preload like tool to align it. just need a straight edge and align the carrier bracket base with the center of the hub, and tighten the bolt that goes through the rtab.
 

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To compress the bushings, try using hose clamps. There is no front or back to the bushings. I would suggest to keep the 'gaps' in the rubber vertical just to assist with putting the carrier back over the bushing and back on to the trailing arm.

Also, When pressing in the bushings, do it from the outside of the trailing arm inwards. Reason being is that the outside edge of the trailing arm is bevelled and will allow the bushing an easier, aligned entry into the trailing arm. A little diluted dish soap or similar rubbed onto the bushing would not hurt either.

I highly recommend using the MIS tool or similar.

Good luck!
 

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Planning to do this DIY soon along with FCABs and have a 4 wheel alignment.

I bought Meyle HD FCABs, Meyle HD M3 RTABs plus limiters, and Meyle HD RSMs.

Other things look straight forwards except for the preloading section.
How do I go about preloading the RTAB without the given tool? The picture in the thread is in such an angle that I am not able to see what the tool is actually doing?
Can I use something else than the BMW pre-loading tool?

Also, if I dont use the preloading tool and install the RTABs, get an alignment immediately, will it still give any adverse effects? What I mean to ask is will an immediate alignment make the preloading needless.
 

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just did this today and it was a BBBBBIIIIII....TTTCHHHH to do.

If you don't have a lift, and you don't have this rtab tool, you are in for the struggle of your life.

I am beat now, I did it on a buddy's 325ci and then in my m3 boyyyyy what a mission!!!
 

· OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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^ you don't need a lift. just jackstands. but the tool makes this a breeze. i suggest rent, buy or borrow one for people doing this in future.
 
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