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I have a tool that I rent out, but it just went out to a guy this past Monday. I will probably have it back in a week or two if you can wait. Send me an email if interested. $100 deposit and I refund $76 when I get the tool back in good condition. The $24 includes paypal fees and shipping/insurance costs to you. Return shipping is about $7.80 with insurance, $5 without. I ship in a USPS small flat rate box and it has been taking about 2 days to go cross country.
 

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For the record, my Powerflex RTABs still squeek. Only when I sit down in the car, but it happens. I have another 6 months left on my alignment warranty, so I might get back under the car this summer and try regreasing the bushings to see if that stops the squeeking. But my brakes squeel so much, I don't know if it even makes a difference. PEACE.
 

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I have a tool that I rent out, but it just went out to a guy this past Monday. I will probably have it back in a week or two if you can wait. Send me an email if interested. $100 deposit and I refund $76 when I get the tool back in good condition. The $24 includes paypal fees and shipping/insurance costs to you. Return shipping is about $7.80 with insurance, $5 without. I ship in a USPS small flat rate box and it has been taking about 2 days to go cross country.
That all sounds great, pm me or post on this when it's back in your possession. Thanks!
 

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For the record, my Powerflex RTABs still squeek. Only when I sit down in the car, but it happens. I have another 6 months left on my alignment warranty, so I might get back under the car this summer and try regreasing the bushings to see if that stops the squeeking. But my brakes squeel so much, I don't know if it even makes a difference. PEACE.
Go back to OE/OEM bushings. They will feel much better and they dont make these noises. Most who buy AM end up going back to OEM.

Are your brakes AM or OEM?
 

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I have had the powerflex RTABs installed for almost 3 years now. No squeaks, no problems, handles great... And I don't have to worry about changing them again after another 20k miles... I think you just have to be generous where you put the anti-seize. I covered everything that might touch the PU surfaces of the RTABs and plenty between the RTAB disks. (Powerflex bushings come in two pieces shaped like a "top hat". The "brims" of the "top hats" act as limiters when they are installed.
 

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Since we're talking about RTABs, migth as well mention the Vorshalg limiters.

Some folks like to install their RTABs with these.
 

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Just looking at powerflex rtab's and fcab's and was pondering...

I'm not sure if i have the 60mm or the 66mm lollipop housing, but if I did have the 60mm one could I whack on a 66mm one with new powerflex fcab's??? Is it a simple swap or is it more complicated than that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
I have had the powerflex RTABs installed for almost 3 years now. No squeaks, no problems, handles great... And I don't have to worry about changing them again after another 20k miles... I think you just have to be generous where you put the anti-seize. I covered everything that might touch the PU surfaces of the RTABs and plenty between the RTAB disks. (Powerflex bushings come in two pieces shaped like a "top hat". The "brims" of the "top hats" act as limiters when they are installed.
No squeaking here either....be generous with the grease!

Going back to stock, NEVER, even if it eventually squeaks.....

The car is on rails with these RTAB's, TMS adjustable lower control arms and an aggressive alignment :D
 

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I'm in the process of replacing my OEM RTAB's. I've got the driver side finished. It went pretty smooth. I'm using new OEM bushings and Vorshlag limiters. I may have screwed up - I lubed the bore with a coat of motor oil before pressing in the new bushings. Will this cause an issue? Thanks!
 

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Thanks for reply, Luky. I'll use a bit of anti-size on other side, instead of motor oil, to help ease insertion of new bushing, and make it easier to change in future. I plan on keeping my car many years!! Hopefully, this is the first and last time I'll need to touch my RTAB's!
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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8) Next, get yourself copper based anti-seize. This is a must if you don't want squeaks, creaks or clunks


9) Take a wire brush or some emery cloth and clean out the inside and outer edge of the trailing arm.
10) Once cleaned, generously apply the antiseize to the entire trailing arm as pictured
curious why it is that one is to use the Copper based anti-seized. i always thought the Copper based A/S was for metals that see High temp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
curious why it is that one is to use the Copper based anti-seized. i always thought the Copper based A/S was for metals that see High temp?
"Powerflex polyurethane bushings are designed to decrease the amount of deflection in your car's suspension for better handling, driver feedback, and tire wear. Powerflex uses premium polyurethane materials for minimal NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) and increased longevity over the stock rubber bushings. Copper-based grease is supplied with every dynamic product. We suggest using only a copper-based grease for lubrication. Due to grooves and knurls cast into the material to hold the lubricant, bushings will rarely need re-lubing. "

If you can find a copper based grease, that would be ideal. At the time, the anti-seize was readily available
 

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I used the cheap & easily available 'green grease' from Autozone & Advanced Autoparts. You need a small $10 grease gun to use it, comes in a pack of 3, it's green. I've resolved every suspension related creek & groan in my E36 & E46 with no re-occurance by using the stuff after Powerflex's copper lube started to fail after a few thousand miles.

Also, according to Powerflex, their copper lube is NOT copper anti-sieze, copper based anti-sieze is not recommended by them either; it is a copper impregnated lubricant according to them (although it looks, smells & feels just like my can of copper Anit-sieze). Again, I have had bad luck in two cars with their supplied lube, the cheap 'green grease' has never failed me yet & has worked great for others as well when they get the creeks & groans from their urethane bushings.

Another product I've been messing around with is Permatex 'Extreme ceramic' Brake lube; good results so far. Seams nice & thick and it is supposed to not wash off of brake parts which is obviously more exposed & severe than suspension components.
 
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