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I disagree. The outside of the stock RTAB carrier should be lubed with anti-sieze or it may not come out the next time they need to be replaced... This will also help when installing the new RTABs.
The outside of the carrier or the inside (where the RTAB makes contact w/ the carrier)? Anyways, there isn't any consequences with applying anti-seize to contact points on the RTAB anyways, right?
 

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I have a question regarding the preloading also. What if your car has been lowered. My car has the UUC Stage 3, about an inch lower than stock sport suspension. Do you need to change the distance from the wheel center? From the BMW TIS, when you use a tube that is 16mm in diameter and then align the center of the tube with the wheel center, would you need to align the tube center a little higher than the wheel center to compensate for the body of the car being lower?
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 · (Edited)
I have a question regarding the preloading also. What if your car has been lowered. My car has the UUC Stage 3, about an inch lower than stock sport suspension. Do you need to change the distance from the wheel center? From the BMW TIS, when you use a tube that is 16mm in diameter and then align the center of the tube with the wheel center, would you need to align the tube center a little higher than the wheel center to compensate for the body of the car being lower?
The top of "preloading" does not pertain to the installation of the powerflex bushing. It pertains to the replacement of stock bushings only which is not the topic of this thread.

http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=285053
 

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Hello all. Long time viewer first time poster. Using this post I found out why I was going through so many rear tires. Rear Trailing Arm Bushing. I thought I would post what happened when I took it to the dealership to maybe inspire people to DIY or to shop around. I saw this thread before going to the dealership and good thing I did because if you look at the estamaite it does look like they are replacing the complete wishbone on each side. It was because of this post I knew better. When I asked, "Just the busing right?" They said, "Yes just the bushing" Also you can see there was a programing update I am not sure where or if I should post that somewhere.



Recall: (i was told it was for emissions monitoring access)
 

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This is what having your rear trailing arm bushing go out. LOTS AND LOTS of tires! Here is why. I took these after driving 5 miles. If you are getting a lot of tire wear in the same place you see heat on mine then this most likely is the problem. Just thought I would share what the damage looks like in real time. I have been buying used tires because of the cost and distance they go. This forum helped me find out what was really wrong

Rear Left

Rear Right
 

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Anybody has Melyle HD Front CA bushing and Powerflex RTA bushing? What do you think about this combination?

I just installed the Melyle HD front bushing and am thinking about Powerflex RTAB. Thks.
 

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The poly RTAB's will ride and handle just fine and are easy to install. They really don't seem to have all that much more life than OEM. I got about 75K mi out of a set I bought from UUC. I had to pull them out and grease them every spring because they would squeak so much. I replaced them with M3 RTAB's this spring.
 

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This is what having your rear trailing arm bushing go out. LOTS AND LOTS of tires! Here is why. I took these after driving 5 miles. If you are getting a lot of tire wear in the same place you see heat on mine then this most likely is the problem. Just thought I would share what the damage looks like in real time. I have been buying used tires because of the cost and distance they go. This forum helped me find out what was really wrong

Rear Left

Rear Right
WOW! First time seeing a FLIR shot being used for our cars. Do you have a FLIR camera? Where did you get yours?

Could the cause of the increased heat on the inner side of the tires be from the negative camber our cars have? I'm curious what the temperatures would be from a FLIR shot of tires with correct rear cambers and a shot with rears that have excessive cambers.

:thumbsup: Awesome shot!
 

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I just got some Meyle HD rtabs and Vorshlag limiters...

Anyone know if I should be concerned with the preload? The rtab sure resembles an oem closely. I have the newer style with the split casing and it doesn't flange out on one side..

Any input appreciated, Ken
I'm a little late to this party but I wanted to share my experience with replacing my RTAB's on 2002 330ci with stock sport suspension.

All the info in this thread is valuable and spot on. If you're using OEM type bushings (Meyle, Lemfoerder) you must preload the bushing...period!

If you are installing Rogue engineering/Powerflex polyurethane bushings, you do not need to preload them.

I researched this topic to death before I changed my RTAB with Lemfoerder OEM type bushings - immediately had a dealer four wheel alignment. I didn't see this thread in all my research, so I didn't preload the bushings - the result - my car feels like the rear end is steering the front - the car tramlines like crazy - under acceleration, the rear end feels like it has other ideas about where it wants to go.

I was unable to find the BMW tool 33-3-280, which is used to preload the bushing, so....I'm redoing my RTAB's with Powerflex bushings (rear shocks, front struts and another four wheel alignment).

Good luck to you all. I hope my info helps a bit. You've all made it possible for me to do a ton of work on my car myself. This one just slipped through the cracks on me - no worries - I've saved so much money, I'm still up a couple grand at least :)

Cheers!
 

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How long do these typicly last?
Powerflex has a lifetime warranty for the original purchaser.

Grease every surface not in direct contact with pure air with the supplied grease. Driving on these for 10 years with not a peep using this method.
 

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How long do these typicly last?

50K of NYC driving and I replaced the originals with M3 RTABs. Im glad I went with M3 RTABs and not the standard stock ones that came with the car.

Honestly, I think they should be changed much sooner, though. At least for me. I think 40K would have been better. All depends on how comfortable a ride you want and when, as these gradually lose their absorption abilities over time. The rear feels less loose and planted and driving over bumps I dont hear that hard clank anymore.

You can buy a pair (L/R) of BMW OE M3 RTABs for less than $45.00 from www.BMWmercedesPARTS.com - they're a BMW dealer with an internet parts divison. I would also advise buying new nuts and bolts as well.

33326770817 (2) M3 RTAB $22.15
33326760389 (2) RTAB BOLT $1.17
33326760668 (2) RTAB COLLAR NUT $0.43
33326760386 (6) CARRIER BOLT $0.95
 
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