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12) Take the RTAB's and install them in the trailing arm. Apply antiseize to the barrel and push the barrel through both bushings. You may need to tap it with a hammer to get the barrel through
GREAT write-up...I have one question though - RE: the PowerFlex RTABs - did you need the RTAB tool to install them - or since it's 2 pieces (unlike OEM which is a whole unit), can you simply push them in by hand?


Thanks!
 

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No, you do not need the RTAB tool to install the powerflex RTABs, only to remove the old bushings.

I did find using a couple of small C clamps helped for pushing the center barrel in and compressing the two urethane bushing halves together.

I have an RTAB tool for rent if you're interested...

Luky
Thanks Luky!

I see yer in SD also. I'm actually going to try and pry the OEM RTABs out another way (there many DIYs here using alternative methods). If these fail, I'll definitely hit you up for your tool!

Thanks,
AJ
 

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not trying in anyway to take from a great thread...but i just replaced my rtabs and found using a whole saw bit..2 inches...worked great..just sawed out the rubber and then the aluminum race came right out. for those that dont have the puller. i put the power flex brand in..and you can just press them in..not much force is needed..or just love tap with a rubber malett.
 

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man, i'm pretty strong but using my own strength to put up the control arm into place was a no go. great write up and the tool was easy to get the only hard part was getting the passenger side wheel off the hub. it just wouldn't come off what a pain. the only difference is i used marine based grease.

thanks i appreciate it
 

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This is a great DIY! I am getting ready to remove my UUC RTAB's, I am tired of dropping the arms and re-greasing them to get rid of the squeeks. I have new M3 RTAB's and this issue of pre-loading is key. Please take a look at the figure from above I modified. Is the top of the bearing hub and the top of the carrier alignment tool in the same plane? It looks like it is in the pic and in the pdf posted above. If so, I think I can devise a method to get this lined up properly. Anyone know for sure?

 

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not trying in anyway to take from a great thread...but i just replaced my rtabs and found using a whole saw bit..2 inches...worked great..just sawed out the rubber and then the aluminum race came right out. for those that dont have the puller. i put the power flex brand in..and you can just press them in..not much force is needed..or just love tap with a rubber malett.
LOL: Great idea!
 

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Other control arms

Is this bushing the controlling item in the rear suspension for alignment? I have 120k miles on my car and am looking at refreshing the suspension. Have people replaced the busing on the aft end of hte RTA or the bushings on the upper or lower control arms? Would replacing these other bushings be worth the effort and do they have any impact on the alignment?

Thanks in advance.
 

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It affects the rear alignment a noticeable amount, specifically the toe.

I just changed my RTABs and before an alignment, the measurements came in at .22º and -.01º, after having been within spec prior to bushing replacement.

Stock spec is between .08 and .18º FYI

I would recommend and alignment contrary to if others claim they've been 'just fine' without one
 

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I just took my new to me E46 M3 to the stealership for an alignment and they told me they couldn't do it due to worn rear wishbone bushings and front control bushings. Is that what you guys call the RTAB's and FCAB's?

They wanted $1300 to replace all of and I almost fainted.....think I'm gonna do it myself as I'm very mechanically inclined (used to build Subaru STi's and DSM's but this is my first BMW).

So questions are:
1) Is the RTAB and FCAB what the dealer is telling me about
2) what poly brand is the best for comfort and reliability....DON'T want OEM
3) Are there any other bushings that affect alignment other than RTAB and FCAB?

Thanks guys.
 

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I just took my new to me E46 M3 to the stealership for an alignment and they told me they couldn't do it due to worn rear wishbone bushings and front control bushings. Is that what you guys call the RTAB's and FCAB's?

They wanted $1300 to replace all of and I almost fainted.....think I'm gonna do it myself as I'm very mechanically inclined (used to build Subaru STi's and DSM's but this is my first BMW).

So questions are:
1) Is the RTAB and FCAB what the dealer is telling me about
2) what poly brand is the best for comfort and reliability....DON'T want OEM
3) Are there any other bushings that affect alignment other than RTAB and FCAB?

Thanks guys.
RTAB = rear trailing arm bushing
FCAB = front control arm bushing

OE is the best imo for comfort and some spirited drive, if not, then buy the Meyle bushings. Anything else will be stiffer.

3)The only bushings which affect alignment are the RTAB and FCAB.
 

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So questions are:
1) Is the RTAB and FCAB what the dealer is telling me about
2) what poly brand is the best for comfort and reliability....DON'T want OEM
3) Are there any other bushings that affect alignment other than RTAB and FCAB?

Thanks guys.
Powerflex PU RTABs and FCABs. Just make sure you lube up the PU contact areas where they rub so they don't squeak. Also you may want to replace your front control arms when replacing the FCABs. It is really a pretty simple job to do both of these (especially if you have a RTAB tool) and buy the FCABs in new housings (lollypops) ready to bolt up.
 
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