E46 Fanatics Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

61 - 80 of 98 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Hey thanks for the help, and especially so for this DIY! So far the oil pan gasket change is a success, nice and dry.

I did figure out the play in the steering. When reinserting the steering column into the steering coupler I did not insert it far enough. The column has a groove that the bolt needs to sit in. I ended up replacing the coupler with a new on as well. $80 for the part from BMW, but only takes 10 minutes plus time to jack up the car and my steering is noticeably stiffer at 100,000 miles.
Jeremy,

Thanks for posting the root cause of the steering wheel play and I'm glad to hear that the coupler didn't disengage while you were driving!!!

I was actually hoping to add your point re: ensuring that the steering coupler is inserted all the way onto the steering column connector, as a reassembly note at the end of the DIY. From memory, it's a stiff connection and required a fair bit of force to engage properly. Unfortunately it looks like after a certain amount of time the post gets locked and you can't make any more edits...

My E46 had a fairly loose steering wheel since I bought it, even after I fitted polyurethane bushings. Even though it only has 120,000 km's on the clock, I suspect it was used as a city driver by its former owner, so the uni-joints would have gotten a fair workout. The next time I do a bulk order of BMW parts from the USA, I'll also replace the steering couplers to see if that improves steering wheel feel...

Mine is leaking and I am putting up with it at 175k. My concern is to pull the engine, how can I make sure all cables and gearbox engagement is not going to be affected as I am not a mechanic and just learning. Its scary :). Also, if I am down there, what else to change as maintenance. Need to do the homework I guess.
Saturn,

Can I assume that your concern is in relation to the pull on the cables attached to the engine, the transmission and mounts, when you lift the engine using the support bar? If this is the case, then I'm pretty comfortable in saying that it won't be an issue. The procedure requires lifting the front of the engine by 10-15mm, which is just enough to transfer the weight off the engine mounts and onto the support bar, allowing you to disconnect the engine mounts and remove the brace underneath. I would even go so far as to say that lifting the engine by 10-15mm would be well in the normal range of movement of the engine (in relation to freedom of movement within the mounts, between acceleration and deceleration) and wouldn't result in any measurable additional stress on the transmission mounts or cables connected between the chassis and engine.

I note that your profile on the LHS banner states that you own a 525i. While there should be some similarity in the procedure, I would strongly suggest obtaining a Bentley manual for your particular model (if you haven't already done so), before attempting this DIY on your car. Make sure you get the correct part numbers from the RealOEM website too.

In terms of other related maintenance jobs that you can undertake while changing the sump gasket, the E46 has particular weaknesses with:

1. Oil filter housing gasket (which will almost always leak before the sump gasket fails);
2. Front control arm bushings; and
3. Engine mounts (refer to notes in this DIY).

As you've correctly already noted, you'll need to do some research to the specific weaknesses of your model.

P.S. Not sure where you're based in Australia, but if you're in ADL and you decide to go through with this DIY; you're welcome to have a loan of my engine support bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Thanks OP (anonymous_coward)! Just did the first half - oil pan is out and cleaned up. Will install tomorrow, along with: new engine mounts, control arms, control arm bushings and tie rod ends. I also have some cooling system maintenance, but first things first. John
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Hi, i am just now finally getting to changing my oil pan gasket out of necessity because I am losing a quart of oil every 120 miles even after just doing the ccv, vcg and ofhg(3rd time now in Iast 50,000 miles). Question, I am attempting to replace all the oil pan bolts for piece of mind. I found the part number for the 21 small bolts and the torx bolts, but I could not find the part numbers for the medium and long bolts. Anyone know what they are? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Just ordered them. Thanks! wish me luck. I hate getting under my car, but I gotta get it done. I have the engine bar and im thinking of renting a cherry picker so I have 2 points of failure before engine can fall. I don't trust an $80 metal bar from HF to keep me safe. I figured ill also put bricks behind the jacks stands as a backup to catch the car if jacks break and a tire under the car. hopefully 3 points of failure to catch the car incase of a problem. did I mention I hate getting under my car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
I don't blame you; always a good idea to have multiple safeguards.

In case it's of any help, here are some additional links/resources I referenced when doing mine a few months ago: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=16738122#post16738122.

You may have come across them already, but they helped me tremendously.

Best of luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
ok guo removeys/gals, in the middle of the oil pan job, at the step to remove steering guibo, i was going to replace it, but,i have a receipt from previous owner for new steering guibo that he appears to have insalled about 3 years ago roughly 30,000 miles. the guibo also looks relatively new I.E no rust yet pretty much no corrosion. since i dont feel comfortable messing with critical piece of steering if it appears to be fine, no play in steering, if i dont have to, i was not going to replace it, just disconnect one end per the instructions in the thread. does this make the most sense?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
The steering giubo is easy enough to replace on its own later on if you decide to address it separately, and if it's been replaced within the last 30,000 miles it still has a lot of life.

Assume you're leaving it attached to the steering rack and simply disconnecting the top bolt. If you're reusing that torx bolt, you might put some fresh Loctite on (blue) when reassembling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply. Apparently i bought the wrong part, i got the guibo for cars up to 04/2001. My car was manufactured in 10/2001 so that makes my decision very easy. I am going to just disconnect the top bolt so i dont have to mess with the teethed part of it. what part should i knock on to seperate the telescopic steering column from the top of the guibo? i wasnt sure if i should try lightly tapping the steering column, i dont obviously want to damage it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
taking this really slow, just got the subframe bolts broke loose and im about to lower subframe on the jack. I have an auto so the transmission cooler lines are in the way. Do i have to work around them or is there a way to drop them a bit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
Automatic here, as well, and the lines definitely like to get in the way. You'll have to put some pressure on the flexible hoses by the radiator when you slide the pan forward, but you shouldn't have to disconnect anything.

I worked around them, but also had the subframe, steering rack, etc. completely removed (tackling other maintenance), so had a bit more room from not having everything lowered on a jack. It's a tight fit for sure, but doable.

I smeared the RTV a couple times on reassembly, so be sure to save some patience if things go back up and don't line up on the first attempt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Thanks. that helped. Well I got all the bolts off and am finished for the night. Im hoping gravity will loosen a bit in the next 16 hours before I get to work on it again. The scariest thing was laying under the engine wrenching on the bolts trying to loosen them and each time I would break one loose I keep thinking the torque from that's going to break the tiny hook on the engine bar that's holding the engine up. I have both chains also hooked to the engine and the jack below the pan still holding up the subframe, but its still scary. Question, when pulling the pan forward, I obviously cannot pull it to far forward because the crank pulley is right there. Do I slide up the oil pan until I hit that then drop down to remove it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
I agree. Knowing that little hook is all that’s holding the engine up is a little unnerving, but keeping a jack/jack stand or two underneath it all is a bit more comforting from a personal safety standpoint.

When you pull the pan forward/down, it’s not by a whole lot, but you’ll feel the rear disengage. There’s a lip that fits into the bell housing and once you start fiddling with things, you’ll be able to see how to maneuver it around that pulley.

The thing I had to watch more were the cooling lines and being comfortable putting some pressure on those flexible hoses. You might make a mental note (or even take a video) of exactly how you work the angles getting the pan down so you have a reference point when reinstalling.

Getting the pan down won't be the issue; it's getting it back up while trying to keep the gasket clean and RTV where it should be. For what it's worth, I used four pieces of scotch tape to temporarily hold the gasket to the pan while I worked it past the cooling lines and crankshaft pulley. Made things a little easier without it sliding around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
I got the pan loose but cannot get it past the transmission cooler lines. I am going to try draining the coolant so i can disconnect the heat exchanger to see if that gives me more wiggle room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
omg, done. The pan is off. Feels like i delivered a baby.the gasket leaked like a civ. completely dried and cracked around the seal. definitly explains the leak. whew..................
 
61 - 80 of 98 Posts
Top