The only piece I'm aware of that is a cold weather version is the oil separator itself, which is covered in foam, and it's said, is more difficult to fit.
First off, great thread it helped me a lot in gathering the right materials for the job. I was browsing some other forums just to be on the safe side, and came across some items and wondered if I do indeed need them in completion of this job. The items are axle seals, screw plug and sealing sleeve additionally there are 19 Hex bolts on the oil sump that I have been told would have to be replaced as they are one time use. Can anyone confirm this information and that I do indeed those other parts? any answers would be greatly appreciated I am tackling this job soon and want to have all the bases covered, some additional information my car is a X3 3.0i built in 2005 with a M54 engine. Thanks guys and again great thread.
Hey Krod1982,I did mine following every step on this and everything went fine. Only screw that I replaced was the engine support mount. I reuse all 19 screw from the oil pan.
Where are you located. I live in Orlando and can let you borrow tools. Like the engine suspension bar.
Hey thanks for the help, and especially so for this DIY! So far the oil pan gasket change is a success, nice and dry.Hi Jeremy,
Unfortunately I can't offer any definitive explanation for why you've got steering wheel play, but I would suggest investigating:
1. The condition of your control arm bushings. If the bushings are original factory units, chances are they are quite degraded and unbolting them from the chassis may have done some further damage.
2. Any play in the bolts that the steering rack was mounted to the sub-frame (although unlikely, unless you unbolted the steering rack).
Lastly, for some reason (unknown to me), lowering the sub-frame tends to mess up the wheel alignment. This has happened to me on two separate occasions (when changing the sump gasket and when changing out the engine mounts a few months later). If you don't find any issues with the items above, I suggest taking your car in for a wheel alignment at a reputable workshop, to see if that fixes the problem. If you opted to replace the control arm bushings while doing the DIY, you will definitely need to get a wheel alignment done.
It started leaking after the quick and dirty job that included cutting the gasket in just a few thousand miles. Others have had more success, but honestly doing it the right way is worth it just because of the labor involved. There are more nuts/bolts being removed, but they're all easily accessed.So was the pan was leaking for 2nd time after now many K's?
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Mine is leaking and I am putting up with it at 175k. My concern is to pull the engine, how can I make sure all cables and gearbox engagement is not going to be affected as I am not a mechanic and just learning. Its scary . Also, if I am down there, what else to change as maintenance. Need to do the homework I guess.It started leaking after the quick and dirty job that included cutting the gasket in just a few thousand miles. Others have had more success, but honestly doing it the right way is worth it just because of the labor involved. There are more nuts/bolts being removed, but they're all easily accessed.