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The only piece I'm aware of that is a cold weather version is the oil separator itself, which is covered in foam, and it's said, is more difficult to fit.
 

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I should say that these part numbers are for my 2000 323i whose mfg date is between 7/2000 and 9/2000 iirc. (although now that I think of it, those mfg dates would put it as a 2001 i think, idk, its early and the car is at the body shop right now getting some rust cleaned up before winter salt hits). These are the part numbers I see on AutohausAZ. If someone knows of a place that has better prices, please let me know as these guys consistently seem to have the parts I need and free shipping for any order over 50 bucks, which is damn near everything on this car :p

11617501566 - Oil Separator; Pressure Regulating Valve/Oil Separator; Standard, Not for Cold Climate version models
11617533400 - Oil Separator; Pressure Regulating Valve/Oil Separator; Cold Climate, For models with Cold Climate S842A equipment code.

11617533399 - Cold Weather Engine Crankcase Breather Hose; Connecting Hose from Vent Valve
11611440317 - Non-Cold Weather Crankcase Breather Hose; Connecting Hose from Vent Valve - For models with production date from 11/1998 through 12/1999
11617504535 - Non-Cold Weather Crankcase Breather Hose; Connecting Hose from Vent Valve - For models with production date from 1/2000

11157532649 - Engine Crankcase Breather Hose; Crankcase Vent Hose, Vent Valve to Dipstick Tube; For use with standard valve, not for models with Cold Climate S842A equipment code
11157532629 - Engine Crankcase Breather Hose; Crankcase Vent Hose; Vent Valve to Dipstick Tube; Cold Climate Version.

11611432559 - Non-Cold Weather Engine Crankcase Breather Pipe; Vent Pipe, Valve Cover to Pressure Regulating Valve; For use with standard valve, not for models with Cold Climate S842A equipment code
11617533398 - Engine Crankcase Breather Pipe; Vent Pipe, Valve Cover to Pressure Regulating Valve; For models with Cold Climate S842A equipment code pressure regulating valve.

11617504536 - Engine Crankcase Breather Hose; Return Pipe to Connector Hose; For models with production date from 1/2000. Used in conjunction with connector hose 11617504535
11157520035 - Engine Crankcase Breather Pipe; Return Pipe to Connector Hose; For models with production date from 11/1998 through 12/1999. Used in conjunction with connector hose 11611440317, also need 1 clamp 07129952104


^-- These bad boys. Not sure why there is a cold climate version of everything else. However, if nobody can see a reason to get the cold climate version of this piece then I wont worry about it.

-Edit-
I just did a price check on by swapping all the "cold climate" for the standard version and the price difference is only 13-14 dollars, well worth it IMHO.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

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Learned something new ... thanks for posting the part numbers, gintohewoo. Others can validate for their year/model on realoem.com.
 

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Additional supplies?

Hello guys,

First off, great thread it helped me a lot in gathering the right materials for the job. I was browsing some other forums just to be on the safe side, and came across some items and wondered if I do indeed need them in completion of this job. The items are axle seals, screw plug and sealing sleeve additionally there are 19 Hex bolts on the oil sump that I have been told would have to be replaced as they are one time use. Can anyone confirm this information and that I do indeed those other parts? any answers would be greatly appreciated I am tackling this job soon and want to have all the bases covered, some additional information my car is a X3 3.0i built in 2005 with a M54 engine. Thanks guys and again great thread.
 

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I did mine following every step on this and everything went fine. Only screw that I replaced was the engine support mount. I reuse all 19 screw from the oil pan.

Where are you located. I live in Orlando and can let you borrow tools. Like the engine suspension bar.

Hello guys,

First off, great thread it helped me a lot in gathering the right materials for the job. I was browsing some other forums just to be on the safe side, and came across some items and wondered if I do indeed need them in completion of this job. The items are axle seals, screw plug and sealing sleeve additionally there are 19 Hex bolts on the oil sump that I have been told would have to be replaced as they are one time use. Can anyone confirm this information and that I do indeed those other parts? any answers would be greatly appreciated I am tackling this job soon and want to have all the bases covered, some additional information my car is a X3 3.0i built in 2005 with a M54 engine. Thanks guys and again great thread.
 

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I did mine following every step on this and everything went fine. Only screw that I replaced was the engine support mount. I reuse all 19 screw from the oil pan.

Where are you located. I live in Orlando and can let you borrow tools. Like the engine suspension bar.
Hey Krod1982,

Thank you for the reply, I'm in Southern California so those 19 hex bolts can be reused huh? this is good news do you have any experience with any of the other items I listed in my post? Because if you or nobody else needed them in the repair then I could finalize my part list and get started on this job fairly soon. Thanks again for the speedy reply much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi X3WhittierGuy,

Regarding your question on whether you need to replace the hex bolts (that hold the sump onto the bottom of the engine block); refer to discussions at posts #33 and #34 on page 2 of this thread.

In short, you probably would have been told to replace these bolts because the new bolts may come with dry thread locker. There's no reason why you couldn't achieve the same result (and save a few bucks) by reusing your existing sump bolts and applying Loctite onto the threads.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to help with your other question re: replacing axle seals, screw plug and sealing sleeve. The only thing I'm certain of if that I didn't come across these parts when undertaking this DIY on my RWD 2000 320Ci.

I note that you are going to attempt to apply this DIY to an AWD X3. Having a quick look at the sump gasket replacement procedure in my Bentley manual for the AWD variant of the E46, it looks like the procedure does vary substantially, whereby the Bentley procedure only calls for the sump to be "lowered", rather than "removed". Removing the sump from the AWD version of the E46 looks like a whole new world of pain...

If you haven't already done so, I would strongly suggest getting your hands on a copy of the Bentley Manual for your particular model, before attempting to apply this DIY to your car.

Probably not the answers you were looking for, but hope that helps nevertheless!
 

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This is a very thorough and detailed DIY. I tackled this today with the help of a friend. Two things that we noticed with my car (2004 330i ZHP) were: First, the automatic transmission cooler lines made removal of the pan awkward and the lines also were in the way for the driver's side pan bolts. Second, with Xenon headlights, you need to disconnect the wires for the self leveling unit. Aside from that, there really isn't much to add. Thanks for the great write-up!
 

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Awesome DIY! Thanks for putting this together. I am on the tail end of this project and have a question.

I have extra bolts. I cant seem to find the part you describe as: Front end reinforcement to frame rail / suspension sub-frame bolts, and you state that the quantity is dependent on vehicle type.

I went to the dealer and gave them the P/N you provided and they gave me 8 bolts. I can not seem to see where they might go. The only thing I did not replace were the stabilizer bar nuts, and there are 4 of those.
Advice anyone?
Thanks!
 

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If your front reinforcement plate looks like part number 3, that's where the bolts are used. Those bolts are use once bolts.

 

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Thanks again for the great DIY.

I found it interesting that after installing the new engine mounts, my engine support bar had no tension in it, and I had raised the engine about 10-15 mm. Just shows how far gone the old mounts were.
 

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steering wheel play after DIY

After completing this diy I have some steering wheel play. I did not remove the lower bolt of the steering coupler as in the diy, I removed the upper bolt on the steering column side and replaced with a brand new one. I am going to investigate tonight,

any tips on what to look for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Hi Jeremy,

Unfortunately I can't offer any definitive explanation for why you've got steering wheel play, but I would suggest investigating:

1. The condition of your control arm bushings. If the bushings are original factory units, chances are they are quite degraded and unbolting them from the chassis may have done some further damage.

2. Any play in the bolts that the steering rack was mounted to the sub-frame (although unlikely, unless you unbolted the steering rack).

Lastly, for some reason (unknown to me), lowering the sub-frame tends to mess up the wheel alignment. This has happened to me on two separate occasions (when changing the sump gasket and when changing out the engine mounts a few months later). If you don't find any issues with the items above, I suggest taking your car in for a wheel alignment at a reputable workshop, to see if that fixes the problem. If you opted to replace the control arm bushings while doing the DIY, you will definitely need to get a wheel alignment done.
 

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Hi Jeremy,

Unfortunately I can't offer any definitive explanation for why you've got steering wheel play, but I would suggest investigating:

1. The condition of your control arm bushings. If the bushings are original factory units, chances are they are quite degraded and unbolting them from the chassis may have done some further damage.

2. Any play in the bolts that the steering rack was mounted to the sub-frame (although unlikely, unless you unbolted the steering rack).

Lastly, for some reason (unknown to me), lowering the sub-frame tends to mess up the wheel alignment. This has happened to me on two separate occasions (when changing the sump gasket and when changing out the engine mounts a few months later). If you don't find any issues with the items above, I suggest taking your car in for a wheel alignment at a reputable workshop, to see if that fixes the problem. If you opted to replace the control arm bushings while doing the DIY, you will definitely need to get a wheel alignment done.
Hey thanks for the help, and especially so for this DIY! So far the oil pan gasket change is a success, nice and dry.

I did figure out the play in the steering. When reinserting the steering column into the steering coupler I did not insert it far enough. The column has a groove that the bolt needs to sit in. I ended up replacing the coupler with a new on as well. $80 for the part from BMW, but only takes 10 minutes plus time to jack up the car and my steering is noticeably stiffer at 100,000 miles.
 

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I just did the oil pan gasket last weekend. I've now done it both ways, having first done it without an engine support bar and cutting the gasket, and this time having done it with the support bar. Honestly, it's easier to take the extra steps and use the support bar and drop the crossmember. While I was in there I replaced my oil pump nut with the safety wired one from Bimmerworld. At 221,000 miles my original oil pump nut was still nice and tight so I guess I would have probably been fine without that, but I still feel better having that security.
 

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So was the pan was leaking for 2nd time after now many K's?

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It started leaking after the quick and dirty job that included cutting the gasket in just a few thousand miles. Others have had more success, but honestly doing it the right way is worth it just because of the labor involved. There are more nuts/bolts being removed, but they're all easily accessed.
 

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It started leaking after the quick and dirty job that included cutting the gasket in just a few thousand miles. Others have had more success, but honestly doing it the right way is worth it just because of the labor involved. There are more nuts/bolts being removed, but they're all easily accessed.
Mine is leaking and I am putting up with it at 175k. My concern is to pull the engine, how can I make sure all cables and gearbox engagement is not going to be affected as I am not a mechanic and just learning. Its scary :). Also, if I am down there, what else to change as maintenance. Need to do the homework I guess.

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