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DIY: No heat fix - Thermostat, Heater Core Sensor and Valve

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28K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  DarkPhoenix  
#1 ·
There is little to no heat coming out of this E46. First thoughts would be to inspect the thermostat, and heater core valve, as those are typically the most influential pieces that contribute to poor heating.

Other symptoms experienced were the water temperature on the dash was fluctuating, so it was solidified that there is possibly a bad thermostat on the vehicle.

Once replacing the thermostat, and inspecting the heater core valve to see it was clean and in good condition, the system was filled, and bled only to see the car was still not getting proper heating. Confirming the heater core was clean, and free to open and close the valve, the HCV was unplugged to default the valve into the open position. This immediately brought heat into the cabin, confirming that our valve is operational, and our thermostat is cycling coolant correctly through the system, as well as being bled correctly.

The next logical path of correction was to understand how the heater control valve receives its signal. There is a sensor behind the HVAC unit in the cabin, the heater core sensor. If improper signal/temperature is registered, the valve will not open and close correctly not bringing in heat to the cabin. Replacing this sensor solved the problem for this vehicle, and there is full heat in the cabin, under full control of the HVAC unit. Problem solved, and a costly visit to the mechanic averted.

Bonus features of this video, you can reference this on how to remove radio, HVAC/IHKA unit, sunglass holder, and dash trim.

https://youtu.be/YZdGg3qShh4_a_
 
#3 ·
:bump: for later! nice job with this one man
 
#5 ·
Thanks for posting this! I'm having the same exact issue, and this is the only post I found to describe the issue exactly.

Before I buy a new sensor and open the dash up, I am planing on putting a volt meter to the wires going to the Heater Control Valve (HCV) to see if the 12v ever turn off, defaulting the HCV to open. My hope and suspicion is that it will not, and that there is always 12v going to the HCV. If true, I now know how to fix it thanks to this post!

Here is another questions before I do all this however:

Before the fix, did your HVAC unit still control the vent speed when you had it set to auto?


Mine does. For example, if I set the heat to 91F and set the climate control to auto in cold weather, the fan speed is automatically lowered to one dot or the minimum. In other words, the HVAC system (or sensor) knows that the air coming out of the HVAC is not helping warm up the cabin. When I unplug my Heather Control Valve like you did, the heat is restored, the system controls the fan properly to heat up the cabin, and lowers it only when it's warm in the cabin.
 
#6 ·
I know this post is 3+ years old. I joined just to say thank you for this!!!

I bought my first e46 just over a week ago. After putting the intake manifold on, fixing all the vacuum lines, and general used car stuff (Flush antifreeze, oil change, new spark plugs, battery, and air filter) I had no heat at all. I work 3rd shift and the nights have been between 10*-20*. So it has been some cold rides. I searched and searched and did everything everyone said to do. Bleed the system, change the HVC, thermostat, Flush the heater core, ect..... I didn't want to make a new post to beat this dead horse all over again, Then I finally found your post. When I left work to go home, I unplugged the HCV and instantly had heat. I ordered the blower motor temp sensor as soon as I got home.

Again, I can't thank you enough for this post...