Joined
·
588 Posts
Ok I'd thought I'd share with everyone my experience thus far with Meyle's control arms with replaceable balljoints. Hopefully they outlast the standard OEM ones, but so far the steering has been noticably tighter compared to when I got new control arms less than 2 years ago.
Anyways the tools for this job:
2 jack stands
Torque Wrench
Philips Head scewdriver
16mm socket
19mm open ended wrench
22mm open ended wrench
22mm socket
Pickle Fork
3 lb hammer
3 jaw puller (Not neccesary but helpful)
Possibly some extensions (3 feet not neccesary but helpful)
And some grease (white lithum will work just fine)
New Control Arms:
Urethene Bushings (Which ended up being too small):
OEM Carriers w/bushings:
Step 1:
Jack up car and place on jack stands and remove wheels (Removing wheels isn't neccessary but makes it alot easier.
Step 2:
Remove Plastic under covering peices via the 6 philips head screw
Step 3:
Remove Engine/chassis brace (Once again not neccessary but allows for more clearance) using the 16mm socket
Step 4:
Unbolting the the control arms, first remove the 2 - 16mm bolts on both sides mounting the carrier busshing to the frame. Then at the inner balljoint bolts use either a 22mm socket or open ended wrench to loosen them.
I had no problem getting a socket w/ small ratchet on the pass side but on the drivers side I got it form the top of the engine using extensions going through the empty spaces. However though you can easily get the drivers side inner nut off with a 22mm open ended wrench.
Anyways the tools for this job:
2 jack stands
Torque Wrench
Philips Head scewdriver
16mm socket
19mm open ended wrench
22mm open ended wrench
22mm socket
Pickle Fork
3 lb hammer
3 jaw puller (Not neccesary but helpful)
Possibly some extensions (3 feet not neccesary but helpful)
And some grease (white lithum will work just fine)
New Control Arms:





Urethene Bushings (Which ended up being too small):

OEM Carriers w/bushings:

Step 1:
Jack up car and place on jack stands and remove wheels (Removing wheels isn't neccessary but makes it alot easier.



Step 2:
Remove Plastic under covering peices via the 6 philips head screw
Step 3:
Remove Engine/chassis brace (Once again not neccessary but allows for more clearance) using the 16mm socket



Step 4:
Unbolting the the control arms, first remove the 2 - 16mm bolts on both sides mounting the carrier busshing to the frame. Then at the inner balljoint bolts use either a 22mm socket or open ended wrench to loosen them.






I had no problem getting a socket w/ small ratchet on the pass side but on the drivers side I got it form the top of the engine using extensions going through the empty spaces. However though you can easily get the drivers side inner nut off with a 22mm open ended wrench.
