[Ivegotissues666]

Ok I'd thought I'd share with everyone my experience thus far with Meyle's control arms with replaceable balljoints. Hopefully they outlast the standard OEM ones, but so far the steering has been noticably tighter compared to when I got new control arms less than 2 years ago.

Anyways the tools for this job:

2 jack stands
Torque Wrench
Philips Head scewdriver
16mm socket
19mm open ended wrench
22mm open ended wrench
22mm socket
Pickle Fork
3 lb hammer

3 jaw puller (Not neccesary but helpful)
Possibly some extensions (3 feet not neccesary but helpful)

And some grease (white lithum will work just fine)

New Control Arms:

Urethene Bushings (Which ended up being too small):

OEM Carriers w/bushings:

Step 1:

Jack up car and place on jack stands and remove wheels (Removing wheels isn't neccessary but makes it alot easier.

Step 2:

Remove Plastic under covering peices via the 6 philips head screw

Step 3:

Remove Engine/chassis brace (Once again not neccessary but allows for more clearance) using the 16mm socket

Step 4:

Unbolting the the control arms, first remove the 2 - 16mm bolts on both sides mounting the carrier busshing to the frame. Then at the inner balljoint bolts use either a 22mm socket or open ended wrench to loosen them.

I had no problem getting a socket w/ small ratchet on the pass side but on the drivers side I got it form the top of the engine using extensions going through the empty spaces. However though you can easily get the drivers side inner nut off with a 22mm open ended wrench.

 

[Ivegotissues666]

Moving onto the outer balljoint bolts, both were 19mm in my case and were easy to access using a 19mm or 3/4" open ended wrench. It's especially easy when you don't have your tires on either.

Step 5:

Once bolts all bolts are removed the only thing holding the control arms on is essentially rust and seized on. Not to worry, nothing a simple pickle fork and 3 lb hammer can't take care of.

Anyways working on either the inner or outer balljoints just wedge the pickle fork between the balljoints where they meet the front subframe and hit the pickle fok with the 3 lb hammer. A few good whacks and they should pop free.

Step 6:

Now that the control arms are out (well in my case) I could see how much play the balljoints were giving, no wonder why my car failed inspection. Especially compared to the newer Meyle ones where there was virtually no play what so ever.

Anyways installation is the reverse of removal with the exception of changing the carrier bushings. At first I was going to install a set of BavAutos Urethene bushing but they eneded up being too small I beleive 59/60mm as opposed to my carriers being 65/66mm <-- (Correct me if I'm wrong)

So off to the dealership to pay full price for a new pair of OEM bushings. $140 later, come home and finih up the install. Easiest way to remove the old carrier bushings intact without making a mess was to use a 3 jaw puller. I had one around fom previous job so this is a tool to definately keep handy if you plan on working on your car alot.

 

[Ivegotissues666]

Old Bushing removed from control arm:

Old vs. New Control Arms:

Anyways setup the puller on the carrier and it will pull most of the old carrier off and soe rubber will still be attached to the arm. To remove the rest I just stood on the old arm and pulled the carriers off rubber bushing and all, not mess etc... You can however do it the messy way of taking a dremel tool to the ruber and spewing oil everywhere.

Step 7:

Installing the new bushing carriers to arms is simple, just first double check to make sure you have them going on the right way. Once you know for sure lube up the arms and bushing with plenty of grease and press the carrier bushings onto the arms.

Step 8:

Reinstalling the control arms, splash guard, engine brace which is reverse of removal. Make sure you tighten everything down to spec and it is RECCOMMENDED however not neccessary to change out the carrier bushing bolts and engine/frame brace bolts.

Step 9:

Lower Car, install wheels and enjoy your nice stiffer steering. One thing I'd like to make note of is that I did not need an alignment afterwards and the car did seem to have a noticably stiffer steering as I mentioned before. Hopefully these balljoints last longer than 2 years (I hardly drive my car as well barely pushing 60k on the odometer)

I wish I could have installed the urethene bushings as well but things didn't go quite as planned oh well next time I guess

Good Luck and enjoy!

Jared

 

[Hrvat]

I've done this job before but I wonder how did you get your arms inside of control arm bushings?

I've used bit of dish soap inside of CA bushing and control arm just slid inside.

 

[UnBreakable]

Excellent write up, I've been wanting to do this for a while now. Thanks for sharing the info :bow:

 

[msuka]

Wow this is a great write up this should go in the tech diy installs.:bow:

 

[Ivegotissues666]

I've done this job before but I wonder how did you get your arms inside of control arm bushings?

I've used bit of dish soap inside of CA bushing and control arm just slid inside.

Yeah I guess I failed to mention it, but thats what the white lithium grease was for, lubed up the bushing and control arm and slid right on.

Thanks everyone for the compliments

Jared

 

[LI_BIMMER]

Mentioned before but this is a great write up. Thanks for taking the time out to document. :bow:

 

[Tun6twista]

thanks

Thanks for this diy as I will be attempting it soon.

 

[Oggle]

With Ivegotissues666's permission, I've placed this DIY here:

http://www.wikieasy.org/index.php/Meyle_Control_Arms_Replaceable_Balljoints_For_BMW_3_Series

If you guys have any more DIYs feel free to post it there. I will host the pictures for you too.

 

[kwikt]

Good write up, matter of fact I'm going out to the garage to get started on replacing my C/A now. Should be a piece of cake.

Kevin

 

[kwikt]

Good write up, matter of fact I'm going out to the garage to get started on replacing my C/A now. Should be a piece of cake.

Kevin

Jobs done, it took me about 2 hours tops. The car does'nt wonder anymore even speeds up to 110mph.

Kevin

 

[Slawless]

Has anyone doe this with an M3. The M3 doesn't have an engine/chassis brace. It has a large aluminum plate that attaches to the frame and it looks like it attaches to the underside of the ball joint. Do you just takethis plate off? is it a problem? I will continue looking for a DIY. I will post a link if i find one.

 

[er1c]

Great write-up as always. You're a true asset to the community! Are Meyle CAs supposed to be better than OEMs? Also, do you know any high-performance minded CA options? Thanks ... and once more ... you're the man!

 

[NYSpeedRacer]

BMW Motorsport Control Arms @ $2000 per set

 

[Dan04E46]

Eight month bump!

Does anyone know what the torque specs are on the balljoints?

 

[luckysnafu]

Eight month bump!

Does anyone know what the torque specs are on the balljoints?

I will be doing this DIY this weekend, just got the parts today. As for the torque specs, I have a Bentley manual but it's at home right now. I will look up the specs when I get home and post them here.

 

[luckysnafu]

From the Bentley Manual:
Tightening Torques for REAR WHEEL DRIVE
- Control arm rear bracket (bushing bracket) to frame rails - 44 ft-lb
- Front end reinforcement to front subframe or body frame rails - 44 ft-lb
- Inner ball joint to subframe - 66 ft-lb
- Outer ball joint to steering arm - 48 ft-lb

Tightening Torques for ALL WHEEL DRIVE
- Control arm rear bracket (bushing bracket) to frame rails - 44 ft-lb
- Front end reinforcement to front subframe or body frame rails - 44 ft-lb
- Inner ball joint to subframe - 57 ft-lb
- Outer ball joint to steering arm - 48 ft-lb
- Inner ball joint to control arm - 59 ft-lb

 

[Dan04E46]

Wow. Thanks. I appreciate that. I'm also doing the DIY this weekend needed these specs. Now all I need is a torque wrench.

 

[vert]

Did you use the washers that came with the Meyle Arms? The ones that are circled in red below...