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2000 323iT - Orientblau Metallic
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
E46 M3 Cluster Retrofit into Non-M
Credits: @nextelbuddy, @TerraPhantm, @drukhadze

I made this thread because information regarding M3 Clusters into Non-M is rather scattered and kind of all over the place. It was quite a bit of PITA finding information to retrofit my M3 Cluster into my Non-M. Hopefully this helps answer all your questions!


Let's get started;

What's the difference between Non-M Cluster and M3 Cluster?

Non-M Cluster
- Speedometer only goes to 155MPH

    • Tachometer goes up to 7,000RPM
    • Fuel economy gauge
    • Gauge Face is Black / White Needles
M3 Cluster
- Speedometer goes up to 185MPH

    • Tachometer goes up to 9,000RPM
    • Engine oil temperature gauge (Replaces Fuel Economy Gauge)
    • Gauge Face is Grey / Red Needle
    • Variable pre-warning zone / Shift lights (Shift Lights only applied to SMG M3's from Factory)
    • Backlight is a bit more yellow (compared to the Non-M which is the orange)
Just a heads up;
- The E46 M3 is a Coupe; for a weird reason; BMW decided to not include the LED's for the rear doors; even though you can see the rear doors on the cluster. (only applies to Sedan/Touring Owners) I am assuming this is the same for Non-M Coupe's. @nextelbuddy did a thread on how he added the rear LEDs to his M3 Cluster for his Sedan which can be found here

How to get rid of Tamper Dot

- Well to begin with, let's ask the question. What is a tamper dot, and what triggers it?
- The specific information is: VIN, Total Mileage, and Service Interval Information which is stored in both the IKE/LCM. This data is compared each time KL15 is switched on. If the data check reveals a mismatch the manipulation DOT is illuminated.


Option 1: When grabbing a M3 Cluster, get the LCM that was paired with the cluster, good thing about newer LCM (4.0 or higher) is ability to code triple blink/brake force display and LED Tail Lights.

Option 2: Recoding your original LCM: Using PASoft; Click (Reprogramming) -> Write Odometer -> Put mileage of M3 Cluster -> Press Okay. Next; Click (Write FGSTNR) Put last 7 Numbers of VIN (You want the VIN of the M3 Cluster) -> Press Okay. Done! Tamper Dot should be gone now.

How do I adjust Mileage to my chassis mileage?

Option 1: Is done by virginizing cluster; which involves unsoldering the chip and reprogramming it (bit more of a PITA) (93C66 for Motormeter clusters, and M35080 for Bosch clusters) If you want to go this route; you will be able to set your VIN, and set your mileage to be accurate.

@mcalihe did a great tutorial!
So today i coded my M3 cluster for my 330Ci.

Start situation:
Car: E46 330 Ci with 199500 kilometers
Cluster: Standard
PASoft BMW Scanner 1.4 with cable
INPA/NCS expert with INPA cable.
R270 CAS4 EERPOM Writer.

Costs:
M3 Cluster from Ebay 150 Euros
PASoft and adapter 30 Euros
INPA/NCS Cable 25 Euros

=> Total: 205 Euros

New cluster: E46 M3 Cluster 2004 (EEPROM M35080 3)

When i installed the cluster, the tamper dot was on. (Mismatching VIN)
Also the DSC and Parking-Brake light was always lit up in yellow. (Also mismatch VIN)
Take a not of the VIN's first. (yours and the M3 cluster VIN)

1)Take a picture of the clusters needles when it is off. Also use INPA to set the needles to a certain degree. E.g. Set rpm to 50 dgree => The needle is on the 40 MPH dash.
Write the degrees down and also where the needle is at that value. (Important to make sure your needles are at the correct position after all of this)

View attachment 906015

Dissasembly the cluster.

Be careful when removing the needles. I used an old piece of cloth to put under the needle first and used this tool for removing.

View attachment 906016 View attachment 906017 View attachment 906018

2) I can see the EEPROM on the clusters electronic circuit.

View attachment 906019

I went to a friend who has enough knowledge on soldering to take it out without breaking it.

3) I used this R270 CAS4 EEPROM coder which i bought on ebay for 30 euros. (From China, took a while)



I inserted my EEPROM. Make sure the pins are in the correct positions and also make sure it has good contact.

Then i simply opened the software provided with the tool on a Windows XP 64 bit virtual machine.
I selected EEPROM M35080 3 (Thats the one i had in my cluster. Make sure you select the correct one).
Then i pressed read binary. After that was finished i checked if the VIN was read correct (Matched with the M3 VIN read from NCSExpert / PASoft.)
Then i pressed "erase odometer".

=> the first too lines are all 0 and if u read the odometer it should say 0 kilometers.

4) I resoldered the chip to the circuit.

5) Reassemblied the cluster. The needles should be put in 2 milimetes and the turned in anti-clock direction. (So the electric motor is at its zero point.) Then you turn the needles (still always anti-clock direction) into the state they were in the picture you took in step 1. Once you are in the correct position, press them down completley. (Speed and RPM had a 1 mm space when i dissasseblied it. I also made sure it still has this space when i put them back in. The other needles were pushed completley)



6) Put the cluster back into the car. Use PASoft to write the VIN to the cluster.

7) VIN was correct and when i started the car the mileage was set correctly.

8) Check if the needles are at the correct position.


So that is how i done it. If you have questions, you can send them to me. (Also if you need more footage)
Option 2: This is a crude way, however using PASoft read EPPROM and look for offset 0x317 and change 24 to 08, this will give you access to coding data. (I would recommend finding a cluster with lower miles then your chassis. The cluster I snagged was 103,559.) After getting access to coding data. Now you will change the tire scaling value (imp/km) from 4797 to 1. Every 1 miles = 8,000 miles. (YOU CAN'T GO BACKWARDS SO BE CAREFUL)

My car currently has 123,909.

103,559 + 8000 = 111559 = 1
111,559 + 8000 = 119559 = 1
119559 + 4350 = 119559 = 1.84
So will be about 3.84miles, it wont be 100% exact but 1-2 +- is completely fine.

It is crazy how fast the mileage goes up, so make sure you have your laptop, and you find an area safe to bring your mileage up, so you can pull on the side of the road and change the tire scaling value back from 1 to 4797






Why is my DSC Light on?

  • When I plugged my cluster, I didn't have this issue. However, I have read from multiple threads that steering angle calibration fixes the issue? If it doesn't, I'd recommend scanning your car via PASoft/INPA.
    [*]If anyone else can chime in on this issue and found a solution for it. Cheers!
Engine Oil Temperature Gauge
- AFAIK (I may be wrong); Only MS43/MS45.1 DME's is a direct retrofit you can plug in the M3 Cluster, and the Oil Temp will work. However, for MS42's it will still act like a MPG Gauge.

Options for MS42 Owners?
- drukhadze makes an awesome module which gives you all the M3 Cluster Function which involves making pin outs to the module via the 26 Pin Connector behind the cluster. (I have this, and it works perfect!)

Shift Lights - Warm Up Lights
- I do believe Terra has been able to code the DME to get the warmup lights/shift lights to work. (I don't have much knowledge on the DME aspect so someone will have to chim in)

To make the warmup lights and shiftlights work, you will have to flash your MS43 with an unlocked software so you can change the code in that.

The MS43 Wiki is the best site to get more information about this. There are also some good youtube videos about how to flash the MS43.
BE CAREFUL and ALWAYS make backups while doing this. Also charge the car battery and the laptop battery. If the process fails you can buy a new MS43.


After the MS43 is unlocked, you can access the MS43 with the MS4X-Flasher and copy the binary data (Full binary 512kb required for LED Mod).

Download the M Cluster LED Mod from the MS43 Wiki.

Open the binary file in TunerPro and also open the LED Mod definition file (Included in the M Cluster LED Mod downloaded).
There will be an entry in the list on the left side of TunerPro which is called "Patch". Apply this to your 512 kb binary by double clicking.
After that you can save the binary and flash it onto your car using the MS4X-Flasher.

Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds and put the ignition on.
Red and yellow leds will allways light up for the 6500 rev limit.
The warmup lights will work with the oil temperature sensor and shiftlights will appear at 6000+ rpm.

I can add pictures and go more into detail. I flashed my MS43 a year ago for the exhaust pop mod.
Last week i added the LED patch and it all worked fine.

For help just contact me :D
- Stated above @drukhadze has a great module that makes the shift lights and warm up lights work in correlation with oil temperature gauge like the M3.
- If you don't care about shift lights or warm up lights, nor SMG Display because your vehicle is manual then you won't have to worry when you start your car you'll have two red lights illuminated and one yellow light. (Like the Manual M3)


Here is @drukhadze module in action.
Want more info to acquire this module? Link


How to fix speedometer to read more accurately; (I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS)

- @TerraPhantm did a wonderful guide on how to fix this.
Link



Hopefully this helps, Cheers!
 

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Because Race...Convertible?
Turbo ZHP Convertible
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2,941 Posts
Oil temp gauge still worked direct with my previous MS45.1 as well
 

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Registered
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To make the warmup lights and shiftlights work, you will have to flash your MS43 with an unlocked software so you can change the code in that.

The MS43 Wiki is the best site to get more information about this. There are also some good youtube videos about how to flash the MS43.
BE CAREFUL and ALWAYS make backups while doing this. Also charge the car battery and the laptop battery. If the process fails you can buy a new MS43.


After the MS43 is unlocked, you can access the MS43 with the MS4X-Flasher and copy the binary data (Full binary 512kb required for LED Mod).

Download the M Cluster LED Mod from the MS43 Wiki.

Open the binary file in TunerPro and also open the LED Mod definition file (Included in the M Cluster LED Mod downloaded).
There will be an entry in the list on the left side of TunerPro which is called "Patch". Apply this to your 512 kb binary by double clicking.
After that you can save the binary and flash it onto your car using the MS4X-Flasher.

Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds and put the ignition on.
Red and yellow leds will allways light up for the 6500 rev limit.
The warmup lights will work with the oil temperature sensor and shiftlights will appear at 6000+ rpm.

I can add pictures and go more into detail. I flashed my MS43 a year ago for the exhaust pop mod.
Last week i added the LED patch and it all worked fine.

For help just contact me :D
 

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Registered
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So today i coded my M3 cluster for my 330Ci.

Start situation:
Car: E46 330 Ci with 199500 kilometers
Cluster: Standard
PASoft BMW Scanner 1.4 with cable
INPA/NCS expert with INPA cable.
R270 CAS4 EERPOM Writer.

Costs:
M3 Cluster from Ebay 150 Euros
PASoft and adapter 30 Euros
INPA/NCS Cable 25 Euros

=> Total: 205 Euros

New cluster: E46 M3 Cluster 2004 (EEPROM M35080 3)

When i installed the cluster, the tamper dot was on. (Mismatching VIN)
Also the DSC and Parking-Brake light was always lit up in yellow. (Also mismatch VIN)
Take a not of the VIN's first. (yours and the M3 cluster VIN)

1)Take a picture of the clusters needles when it is off. Also use INPA to set the needles to a certain degree. E.g. Set rpm to 50 dgree => The needle is on the 40 MPH dash.
Write the degrees down and also where the needle is at that value. (Important to make sure your needles are at the correct position after all of this)

906015


Dissasembly the cluster.

Be careful when removing the needles. I used an old piece of cloth to put under the needle first and used this tool for removing.

906016
906017
906018


2) I can see the EEPROM on the clusters electronic circuit.

906019


I went to a friend who has enough knowledge on soldering to take it out without breaking it.

3) I used this R270 CAS4 EEPROM coder which i bought on ebay for 30 euros. (From China, took a while)



I inserted my EEPROM. Make sure the pins are in the correct positions and also make sure it has good contact.

Then i simply opened the software provided with the tool on a Windows XP 64 bit virtual machine.
I selected EEPROM M35080 3 (Thats the one i had in my cluster. Make sure you select the correct one).
Then i pressed read binary. After that was finished i checked if the VIN was read correct (Matched with the M3 VIN read from NCSExpert / PASoft.)
Then i pressed "erase odometer".

=> the first too lines are all 0 and if u read the odometer it should say 0 kilometers.

4) I resoldered the chip to the circuit.

5) Reassemblied the cluster. The needles should be put in 2 milimetes and the turned in anti-clock direction. (So the electric motor is at its zero point.) Then you turn the needles (still always anti-clock direction) into the state they were in the picture you took in step 1. Once you are in the correct position, press them down completley. (Speed and RPM had a 1 mm space when i dissasseblied it. I also made sure it still has this space when i put them back in. The other needles were pushed completley)



6) Put the cluster back into the car. Use PASoft to write the VIN to the cluster.

7) VIN was correct and when i started the car the mileage was set correctly.

8) Check if the needles are at the correct position.

906063



So that is how i done it. If you have questions, you can send them to me. (Also if you need more footage)
 

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Registered
2000 323iT - Orientblau Metallic
Joined
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219 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So today i coded my M3 cluster for my 330Ci.

Start situation:
Car: E46 330 Ci with 199500 kilometers
Cluster: Standard
PASoft BMW Scanner 1.4 with cable
INPA/NCS expert with INPA cable.
R270 CAS4 EERPOM Writer.

Costs:
M3 Cluster from Ebay 150 Euros
PASoft and adapter 30 Euros
INPA/NCS Cable 25 Euros

=> Total: 205 Euros

New cluster: E46 M3 Cluster 2004 (EEPROM M35080 3)

When i installed the cluster, the tamper dot was on. (Mismatching VIN)
Also the DSC and Parking-Brake light was always lit up in yellow. (Also mismatch VIN)
Take a not of the VIN's first. (yours and the M3 cluster VIN)

1)Take a picture of the clusters needles when it is off. Also use INPA to set the needles to a certain degree. E.g. Set rpm to 50 dgree => The needle is on the 40 MPH dash.
Write the degrees down and also where the needle is at that value. (Important to make sure your needles are at the correct position after all of this)

View attachment 906015

Dissasembly the cluster.

Be careful when removing the needles. I used an old piece of cloth to put under the needle first and used this tool for removing.

View attachment 906016 View attachment 906017 View attachment 906018

2) I can see the EEPROM on the clusters electronic circuit.

View attachment 906019

I went to a friend who has enough knowledge on soldering to take it out without breaking it.

3) I used this R270 CAS4 EEPROM coder which i bought on ebay for 30 euros. (From China, took a while)



I inserted my EEPROM. Make sure the pins are in the correct positions and also make sure it has good contact.

Then i simply opened the software provided with the tool on a Windows XP 64 bit virtual machine.
I selected EEPROM M35080 3 (Thats the one i had in my cluster. Make sure you select the correct one).
Then i pressed read binary. After that was finished i checked if the VIN was read correct (Matched with the M3 VIN read from NCSExpert / PASoft.)
Then i pressed "erase odometer".

=> the first too lines are all 0 and if u read the odometer it should say 0 kilometers.

4) I resoldered the chip to the circuit.

5) Reassemblied the cluster. The needles should be put in 2 milimetes and the turned in anti-clock direction. (So the electric motor is at its zero point.) Then you turn the needles (still always anti-clock direction) into the state they were in the picture you took in step 1. Once you are in the correct position, press them down completley. (Speed and RPM had a 1 mm space when i dissasseblied it. I also made sure it still has this space when i put them back in. The other needles were pushed completley)



6) Put the cluster back into the car. Use PASoft to write the VIN to the cluster.

7) VIN was correct and when i started the car the mileage was set correctly.

8) Check if the needles are at the correct position.


So that is how i done it. If you have questions, you can send them to me. (Also if you need more footage)
Awesome! Thank you; great stuff!

As for the DCS issue; I never had that issue before I started the retrofit process! (Seems like some people have that issue, and some other don't, glad you figured it out!

So glad we finally have a full fledged guide on how to get a M3 Cluster to work in Non-M's! (y)

Also I HIGHLY Recommend to do @TerraPhantm DIY on the Speedometer Accuracy; before I adjusted it; it was reading quite high; and i had my UNIDEN R7 for confirmation; its more or less basically spot on now on the accuracy of speedometer.
 

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Because Race...Convertible?
Turbo ZHP Convertible
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2,941 Posts
I was able to fix my DSC errors with a steering angle sensor calibration.


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