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DIY: List of Tools for E46

9063 Views 31 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  burntoutrubber
THIS IS A GROUP PROJECT (hopefully!)

I have seen (and used) many different lists of tools required to work on our cars. Unfortunately, they are either lean (like @Mango's), or they are a long conversation with a tool or two in each post.

I thought I would see if we could collate what we know as a group into a spreadsheet that showed the tools, the application and an A/B/C coding for beginner, intermediate, advanced. I have put a bunch down, but encourage you to add more, fix errors, suggest brands (include part number) or add applications.

The net should be a list that can live here as a convenient link for newbies and intermediate-bees asking the question "What tools do I need"

Here it is - anyone can edit
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Holy crap. That's awesome af. Saving to drive :)
Thats pretty much a great list of standard tools. For me those are the essentials to start working on your car. Then there's all the specialty tools and diagnostic tools....
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Thats pretty much a great list of standard tools. For me those are the essentials to start working on your car. Then there's all the specialty tools and diagnostic tools....
I started putting them on the bottom
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I can only read the file. No option to add anything.
A Cheap 22 MM wrench combo open end/box end.
Cut the wrench in two places: Leaving about 2-3" on either end and removing the majority of the center.
Have a tough O2 sensor? Disconnect the connector, slide the box end down/over the O2. Orient how you need and now using a prybar get it loose.
Works great.

931476
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I can only read the file. No option to add anything.
Hmm. Let me see why.
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I can only read the file. No option to add anything.
Can someone else try to edit? I have it set to editable by anyone with the link.
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Works for me
Can I make a request?

I may be having to do an exhaust manifold changeout pretty soon, didn't see any specifics for exhaust manifolds in there but the videos and guides I've seen point out there are some really tough to reach/break nuts on the manifolds sometimes. Any specific extension lengths, socket sizes and depths, special wrenches, etc. that can get into tough places would be greatly appreciated. I know these were last changed in ~2013 which may have been over 125k miles ago so I'm anticipating stubborn nuts/studs.
Can I make a request?

I may be having to do an exhaust manifold changeout pretty soon, didn't see any specifics for exhaust manifolds in there but the videos and guides I've seen point out there are some really tough to reach/break nuts on the manifolds sometimes. Any specific extension lengths, socket sizes and depths, special wrenches, etc. that can get into tough places would be greatly appreciated. I know these were last changed in ~2013 which may have been over 125k miles ago so I'm anticipating stubborn nuts/studs.
I've never done it with the engine in the car, so I don't know. Anyone?
Can I make a request?

I may be having to do an exhaust manifold changeout pretty soon, didn't see any specifics for exhaust manifolds in there but the videos and guides I've seen point out there are some really tough to reach/break nuts on the manifolds sometimes. Any specific extension lengths, socket sizes and depths, special wrenches, etc. that can get into tough places would be greatly appreciated. I know these were last changed in ~2013 which may have been over 125k miles ago so I'm anticipating stubborn nuts/studs.
In terms of the hardware, I did this recently with engine in the car using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a flex head and some short extensions and possibly a u joint as well. I think I used a 3/8" ratchet on some of the bank 1 nuts but quickly switched to 1/4" drive. Great access from below, especially on bank 2 manifold. I don't remember specifics unfortunately.

I used an engine support bar to hold the engine up in order to remove the right motor mount & bracket. (You can use a floor jack with a block of wood/piece of plywood on the oil pan to spread the force out, but the support bar from above is ideal if you have one.)

I didn't have to fight any rust, but some of the studs did turn out with the nuts. Always a good idea to put some penetrating fluid on before loosening if things look crusty (pb blaster, kroil, atf/acetone mix, etc.) and turn the fastener back and forth if there is lots of resistance to try to avoid snapping off a stud.
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Can I make a request?

I may be having to do an exhaust manifold changeout pretty soon, didn't see any specifics for exhaust manifolds in there but the videos and guides I've seen point out there are some really tough to reach/break nuts on the manifolds sometimes. Any specific extension lengths, socket sizes and depths, special wrenches, etc. that can get into tough places would be greatly appreciated. I know these were last changed in ~2013 which may have been over 125k miles ago so I'm anticipating stubborn nuts/studs.
Can someone else try to edit? I have it set to editable by anyone with the link.
I can now. Before it would only open as a pdf.
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First addition by a fanatic! Would love to see more (especially recommendations on individual parts)

I added a section on wiring and harnesses
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I added:
  • B/C; 3/8" drive; 15mm deep; Exhaust Manifold to Exhaust Lock Nuts (to remove exhaust)
  • C; 1/2" drive; 32mm 12-point deep socket; Axle nuts (rear), some replacement nut sizes differ from original
  • A; 1/2" drive; 32mm extra deep socket; VANOS solenoid, Exhaust Side, socket must be 3.5" or longer to fit over solenoid; Lisle 39700, any socket 3.5" or longer
Archbid, for the extra deep exhaust VANOS solenoid socket, I put it after the current entry that links to the German Specialty Tools website. Specific tools may become unavailable over time, so might be good to reference needing a 3.5 inch or longer socket. Please edit or consolidate as you feel appropriate.
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I had to use a pipe wrench on the slip joint to get the drive shaft separated, I know it may not be the preferred way but it worked great for me. Just a thought.
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I had to use a pipe wrench on the slip joint to get the driveshaft separated, I know it may not be the preferred way but it worked great for me. Just a thought.
added. thanks
Thank you for this list, I was really confused on what to get. Now more so worried about the actual cost of acquiring these tools as they will all be needed at some point so best off buying a set which is always more expensive. Any tips on where to get cheap but durable tools from or specific brands ? I know ebays good for stuff but need to know what to look for first. Any help would be appreciated :)


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You really do need a lot of the "A" tools, but you can scan the column showing what job they are used for and wait on those you don't yet need.

First step is sockets and torx bits plus the basic wrenches and drivers. A lot of folks will recommend buying a huge kit. I won't. I would buy racks of 1/4" and 3/8" metric and pick up good 72 tooth ratchets and then Harbor Freight extensions.

An example set:

Get some cheap screwdrivers and Allen keys.

I don't like sets for a few reasons:
1. You are almost always buying tools you don't need - notably complete SAE sets. I have used my SAE sockets maybe ten times since I last had an American car in 1986.
2. Unless you pay up, it is always made in China, and Chinese manufacturers love to "mix and match" quality. Basically making a decent 10mm and 13mm socket and the rest are subpar under the assumption that suburban dads buy these huge kits and use two of the sockets.
3. Blow-molded cases are fine for dedicated tools like a Sawzall or a compression test kit. They are so dumb for hand tool sets because you can't modify the set! If you want one more socket, there is no place for it. Socket rails, especially the locking type, are much more versatile.

I prefer sockets that are knurled, as you can easily twist them with your fingers to remove a fastener.

Tekton, Gearwrench, Craftsman and Dewalt are reasonable. There are certainly more expensive sets - I would call out Wera for my absolute favorite set of sockets.

One overlooked virtue of Craftsman, Dewalt, and a few others (notably not listing Harbor Freight) is that you can buy the sockets individually when you lose one or need a random size.

I would get a decent set of torx bits from t10-t50 at your local hardware store, as well as a bit holder and a 1/4" bit holding socket.

Also you can consider Craigslist. I would rather buy a nicer brand used than a new set of crap "lowest price" stuff
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