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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At 220k km my car developed a "wobling" sound coming from the rear end. I suspected rear bearings due to mileage so I gave it a go.

Ordered 2 new SKF bearings, lock clip and the nut as a kit. The nut for the 320 is a 30mm one. Torque 250nm. Also ordered a set of genuine ATE handbrake spring kit to replace the rusted parts.

First of all, this is NOT an easy DIY. I do not have any special tools and I made my own trying to remove/install the bearings. Since 2001, everything was seized; hub on bearing race, bearing on housing, shaft on bearing etc. It took me 3 days to do this mainly because of stuck parts.

Place car on jackstands; lift rear end from diff support bracket first.






Bearing kit:


Handbrake spring kit:


Bearing pressing pipe, 30mm socket & E14 socket for half-shafts to diff flange


Impact wrench for removal of everything


I will show only one side for this DIY, the hard one with the exhaust in the way
Wheels out:


fun begins


E14 bolts for removal - REPLACE WITH NEW - 80Nm


Using a punch, undo the nut security lock on the shaft


Impact wrench to get the nut out


http://vid283.photobucket.com/albums/kk310/paris320ci/E46bearing/DSCF2135.mp4



Long extension to get the half shaft bolts




Remove disk by locking it on the caliper and unscrew the little allen bolt


16mm bolt removal for brake calipers. Remove and hang them to not stress the brake lines. 65Nm




Forgive the ugly brake shoes from my 330 brake conversion




Puller to push the shaft out + banging with a large hammer. I temporarily installed the collar nut to avoid damage to axle threads.


After around 2h


Remove anti-roll bar, loosen exhaust to make way for the axle to drop


Home made tool to act as a hub separator :)




Using wheel bolts as a counter force to push






Tata!


Bearing race stuck on hub


Puller to get it out (scratched the surfaces a bit but nothing critical:


Custom puller to get the rest of the bearing out of the case AFTER REMOVING THE CIRCLIP OF COURSE:




Cleaned and rust proofed all surfaces:


New bearing going in


FAT threaded rot with pipe to be used a a pressing tool




All in


brand new lock clip in place. If it snaps in place, means the bearing is fully seated
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pressing the hub in, whatever washers are used must be inside the housing to be in contact with the bearing race. You don't want to push it out!




Repeat all of the above for the opposite side. Slide halfshafts in the hub and gently tap them on the bearing side (not on the diff side) until there is enough threaded part to allow the collar nut to grab.

Secure the exhaust in place, re-install the anti roll bar.

Assemble the rebuilt handbrake and adjust it roughly with the rotor


Install brake disk and caliper and lock the disk to allow proper collar nut tightening.


Start the car put it on 2nd and check for noises, etc
http://vid283.photobucket.com/albums/kk310/paris320ci/E46bearing/DSCF2184.mp4

Punch the new collar nut to secure it on the shaft


Don't forget the details


Install wheels and properly torque them
 

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Also......eds garage has and excellent top not video of this on you tube.
Installation and removal
 

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Nice non-tool DIY.
But what the hell happened to your dust shield that it had to be welded back together in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice non-tool DIY.
But what the hell happened to your dust shield that it had to be welded back together in the past?
330 rear brake conversion, in the DIY section here too. The 330 rotor is much bigger, so i improvised regarding the dust shield. Not a pretty job but nobody can see it back there
 

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I'm in the middle of doing both of my rear bearings. Using a B-90 tool but one of the stub axles was stuck in the hub and by Dad and I tried everything we could for days to get it out. were taking sledgehammers and gear pullers to it every which way. I broke down and bought a CTA 4305 because I read in another post that if you attach the tool then loosen the lugs 2 turns for clearance and tighten it down all the way, then hit the bolt with a sledge, it'll get it loose little by little. I bolted up the tool and didn't even need a sledge, it took the hub with the inner race out and left the axle spindle sitting there loose.
 

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Just finished the left rear on my daughter's 2002 325i. Couple quick observations based on using this and a couple of other threads for help. Our hub was very stuck. Broke two manual pullers (weren't the greatest quality). Finally used the Harbor Freight 12 ton puller, plus a 2 1/2 lb sledge in conjunction with a brass hammer (also HF) plus a MAPP torch. Alternated heating, then shots with the sledge (where we used the brass hammer as a punch to prevent damage to the threads, and then the puller. Finally popped free in very small increments. I don't think the HF 5-ton puller would have pulled this off - we had a couple occasions where the hydraulics bypassed internally with the 12 ton. Used a slap hammer to pull off the hub and the HF bearing puller kit to remove and replace the actual bearing. Our inner race stayed intact, so we were spared that fight.

Couple other quick thoughts - if you're going to use a slap hammer, might want to have a couple of extra wheel bolts - it's pretty hard on them. Also, when removing the 6 inside Torx axle bolts, make sure to seat the socket all the way. Our bolts were pretty crudded up and it would have been very easy to not seat the socket all the way and have it slip and round off the bolts.

Thanks to everyone who has posted the detailed DIYs for this job - when using this much force on the car, it's nice to know you're not doing something stupid.
 

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I just got done replacing the rear wheel bearings on my ’03 325i and I thought I’d add on a few notes here.

I rented a 5 lb slide hammer and a hub attachment for it (for removing the hub), a bearing separator and the puller attachment for it (for removing the old bearing inner race from the hub), and a 250 lb torque wrench (which I verified) at Auto Zone for $300. I already had a bearing press kit with the sleeves (for pressing the bearing in/out) and etc. I also already had a large 2 jaw puller which I ended up using as well to push one of the axles out of its hub. I also have a large air compressor and air impacts, which made quick work of the axle nuts and such.

Everything went smoothly until I got to the passenger side and axle was seized in the hub. I used my 2 jaw puller to push it out without much fuss but I knew it wasn’t going to want to go back in. So before I installed the hub into the new bearing, I tried to put the hub on the axle with them out of the car. No dice. I spent probably 2 hours cleaning the splines of the hub and axle with emery cloth, had it shiny, but it was still a tight fit. Then I decided to knock it on with a dead blow hammer and pull back off with the puller. I did that a couple times and it was getting easier every time. So after doing probably a dozen times, it was finally fitting easy enough to install it. I still had to lightly tap the back of the axle to get it through the hub enough to get the nut on so I could use it to pull it the rest of the way. BMW makes/made a special tool to pull the axle through the hub, if I ever do another one I’ll be looking for that tool.

Anyway, overall it’s not that bad of a job if you’re patient and take your time. Luckily, this car isn’t a daily driver, so I had all of the time I needed.
 

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Is it necessary to replace the wheel hub itself? Or I can keep it?
Any parts are recommend to replace when replace the bearing?
 
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