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OpenAutoPro OAP is an extra software running on the pi to connect android smartphones via android auto. It also has some more features.

I use it since v1.0 and there is no problem with pibus, as pibus itself just communicates with the ibus.

It is like using kodi.
So you can control the menus via the iBUS?
 

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I think you need an android smartphone in order to operate with the multimedia and not sure about ios devices but probably it should work the same. I consider BMW's old cars' multimedia very poor as it is really hard to connect to. I even designed a new prototype circuit board for my BMW and have created my own multimedia system from a lot of different parts. Hope it will last long for me and I will not have any issues with it. Anyway, I think people that are not familiar with engineering should probably buy new multimedia that is already done and you will just need to insert it.
 

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The problem is not the pi.

I designed my own pcb which is kocated in tv module housing.

It sends hdmi out to a touchscreen in bordmonitor.

It switches between 3 sources (oem pic from nav, pic from pi if present, pic from rearcam if reverse gear selected).

It is designed to work with and without a pi. If a pi is present the shutdown is simple with petes pibus.

But how to manage shutdown if pi is not present. How to tell the used TI1501 ibus ic to go to sleep mode and cut off pin8.

Thought about consumer shutdown (16 minutes after closing doors this line goes to 0V) but that means to pull an extra wire.

It was better to use a logic which can interprete whether ibus is active or not.

Aerial power cable might also be an option, but if you turn of radio, will this go to 0V while still ignituon is on? If so, then all the rest won't work anymore.
Hi, I'm trying to do the same, I have replaced the original screen with the display and touch screen you suggested and as it's for a Rover 75 I had room to add an extra box to put the driver in. It will save me some messing about if you could tell me how you got the power for the driver.
Thanks

Geoff
 

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Hi, I'm trying to do the same, I have replaced the original screen with the display and touch screen you suggested and as it's for a Rover 75 I had room to add an extra box to put the driver in. It will save me some messing about if you could tell me how you got the power for the driver.
Thanks

Geoff
Hi Geoff, I'm working on something similar too. I'm planning on taking all required power from the existing monitor wiring by linking from the monitors connector board internally. I'm actually working on integrating all the electronics into the monitor housing. I'll be loosing the cassette player to make room, but the kit I have all fits neatly inside.
 

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Have you managed to find a 12v supply that is activated by the i-bus or are you using pibus to switch the permanent live feed from the bordmonitor connector?
 

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Have you managed to find a 12v supply that is activated by the i-bus or are you using pibus to switch the permanent live feed from the bordmonitor connector?
Hi Geoff, Neither really, I'm not sure an i-Bus activated 12v is needed. I'm just taking 12v from the white (pin 8) and blue (pin 7) monitor connectors. It's a 12v Terminal 30 supply, so its on all the time. My screen replacement is simply mimicking the factory unit only in a higher resolution. I wanted it plug and play to keep it as stock as possible, apart from loosing the cassette player. As well as power, all my video feeds are taken from the connector board. An RGsB converter is used to convert the video signals to VGA for my new screen. I've spent countless hours reverse engineering and developing my knowledge base of these old systems, so I haven't had time to finish it yet, but I know it will work in the car fine. That and life getting in the way :)
 

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Hi Geoff, Neither really, I'm not sure an i-Bus activated 12v is needed. I'm just taking 12v from the white (pin 8) and blue (pin 7) monitor connectors. It's a 12v Terminal 30 supply, so its on all the time. My screen replacement is simply mimicking the factory unit only in a higher resolution. I wanted it plug and play to keep it as stock as possible, apart from loosing the cassette player. As well as power, all my video feeds are taken from the connector board. An RGsB converter is used to convert the video signals to VGA for my new screen. I've spent countless hours reverse engineering and developing my knowledge base of these old systems, so I haven't had time to finish it yet, but I know it will work in the car fine. That and life getting in the way :)
If you're keeping it permanently on does it drain the battery or does it have a standby mode and is that similar to the original system? Which RGsB converter are you using, as I was going to use the Pi with a TV dongle and the HDMI input on my monitor I was going to convert the signal from the Nav with separate sync at the TV module and run in a VGA cable to the monitor. I like your solution better.
 

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If you're keeping it permanently on does it drain the battery or does it have a standby mode and is that similar to the original system? Which RGsB converter are you using, as I was going to use the Pi with a TV dongle and the HDMI input on my monitor I was going to convert the signal from the Nav with separate sync at the TV module and run in a VGA cable to the monitor. I like your solution better.
Ok, so when you open your car door the BMW logo should be displayed on the screen. This action is the cars electrical system waking up, it's just like standby on a regular TV. I haven't actually tested it yet but the same thing should happen by "splicing into" that system for the new monitor control electronics. So no extra power should be drawn from the battery. The RGsB converter I'm using is custom, based on one I found in the net. It uses an LM1881 sync separator to strip the sync signal from the Green signal, the result is VGA compatible video. Any RGsB to VGA converter should work, I just like putting my stamp on it.
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