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Just did this whole thing... Biggest project Ive done by myself. Really nothing went wrong and it is working great..

HOWEVER: should note that you need to put the white key thing in the proper position... I had it spun the wrong way (clockwise) and the manual unlock wont work.
Hey my manual unlock (with the key in the door) won't work. What thing are you talking about? I need to fix that in case my battery goes "Tango Uniform"
 

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just wanted to give a shout to KO Performance for their great prices and fast FREE shipping. I submitted an order on Sunday night and they had shipped by Monday afternoon and also upgraded me for FREE to 3-day FedEx. Now I will get my part for the weekend and won't have to drive around for another week with my door strapped closed with a bungee cord. Thanks KO! They were also the only vendor that had ALL the parts I was looking for in stock. ESC had almost all of them and Bavarian said the actuator was a special order.
 

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Wow, great diy, I did this yesterday and thanks to your writeup it only took me a little over an hour to do. thanks!
 

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One caution that I didn't see noted is that if you disconnect your airbag and then turn the car on, when you reconnect the airbag, you will get a caution light. This light can only be turned off by using the $100+ reset tool available through Peake. I bought one on Ebay for $81 and I will promptly be selling it after the reset. Also, before you buy the tool, make sure if you plug in under-the-dash or in-the-engine. This determines which model you buy. I am sure all of this is common tribal knowledge but I seemed to have missed it on the forums until it was too late.

The other thing about this repair is that the window clam has a little 15mm rubber o-ring that holds the whole assembly together. Mine rotted out and the moment I disconnected the reverse Torx bolt (ps, it's worth buying the ratchet head which I found at Sears in a set of 6) the whole thing fell apart. There is a thread on this forum with photos of how this unit goes back together. I would recommend replacing this O-ring even if it didn't snap. Most of the time it is a special order at BMW but any home improvement store will have this size o-ring.

Getting the window back in alignment was not super easy but not super difficult either. There is also an adjustment screw underneath each of the window clams accessible through a hole in the base of the door (one at rear and one at front). This screw helps you adjust the height of the window so when it drops down as you open it, it clears the trim. The other adjustment is accessible if you pull off the trim which is mid-height on the outside of the door. This is all outlined in Bentley. They don't give much detail on the lock removal - I had to look to my e46 Comrades for the real DIY info!
 

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When I first installed the door lock, it would lock, but not unlock with the door handle. After consulting Bentley, all you have to do is remove a small rubber plug from the door which is on the latch side above the latch but below the big rubber flap. There in an allen bolt in there. You simply loosen it, then tighten it up again. Worked perfectly afterwards. Going on 3 weeks since the repair and all is good.
 

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Just wanted to give a big thumbs up on this.

Took me about 1.5 hours- including a trip to Harbor Freight to get the female torx set.

WISH- i would have known about the airbag light. I unplugged the door and ran the car to diagnose the actuator.

Now I have an airbag light.

anyone have one they want to loan out? Does autozone have them?
 

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Keith, I'm on Long Island. If you are passing through, you can borrow my Peak reset tool - just pull up, plug in and you'll be all set. It's an under the dash plug in which i think works for your car. PM me if you want to come by. AZ most certainly would not have a tool like that - AZ caters to a different audience than the BMW crowd. It's a really special tool.
 

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You can find them all over Ebay. Buy it and then resell it. You will probably lose about $10 in the transaction. Or, buy and keep. I was going to sell mine right away but then if you plan on doing repairs in the future, I think you can use it to diagnose all the fault codes in your car. So you might as well get one and hold onto it.
 

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I just got my Peake R5/SRS-16 (the 16 pin unit) and I found out that it's the wrong one - I need the 20 pin unit. What is confusing is that there is an 16 pin connection with OBD hatch under the dash AND a 20-pin connection under the hood. I have a 2000 328ci. I went through the whole exercise on the Peake website and didn't realize that you could have both on the same car. Only after 30 minutes of trying to troubleshoot the dreaded E10 error on the Peake unit did I backpedal to discover that I really need the 20-pin unit. So now I have a never been used R5/SRS-16 that will be going up on Ebay. If anyone wants a first crack at buying it, let me know. I think $99 is fair plus shipping - they are going for $119 on Ebay with free shipping.
 

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Yes, if you don't tear it. I re-applied mine numerous times
Thank you. I am not sure I made in clear in my question though.
Can you just put it back in place using the sticky butyl adhesive already there on the door, or do you need to put some more butyl adhesive/tape on the door first?
 

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Yeah i have a very similar problem as the video you posted paraklas, the only difference is with mine when i enter the key into the door and unlock manually it unlocks it.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Thank you. I am not sure I made in clear in my question though.
Can you just put it back in place using the sticky butyl adhesive already there on the door, or do you need to put some more butyl adhesive/tape on the door first?
It was clear :) Yes, you can. The butyl adhesive usually splits; some stays at the door frame, other at the vapor barrier. Just re-align and it should be good to go.

Yeah i have a very similar problem as the video you posted paraklas, the only difference is with mine when i enter the key into the door and unlock manually it unlocks it.
If you have ruled out the BCM as the cause, or freezing weather, it could be the actuator again. Good luck!
 

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It was clear :) Yes, you can. The butyl adhesive usually splits; some stays at the door frame, other at the vapor barrier. Just re-align and it should be good to go.



If you have ruled out the BCM as the cause, or freezing weather, it could be the actuator again. Good luck!
Yeah not sure yet, doesn't really affect me yet because it only happens occasionally and when it does i can just manually unlock. But this will def be replaced this spring along with all new window actuators.
 

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Just completed this with many many thanks to OP

I had different part numbers as my 1999 328Ci has 'pull out towards you' exterior door handles, which were put on the first lot of E46 coupes up until Sept 2000.

The VIN and RealOEM will confirm which part no's you need.

As OP said, PITA!! Took my a few hours - scratched hands later!

I stumbled on a few things;

1) always check the door lock catch does open when pulling the outside handle BEFORE closing the door. i.e put a screwdriver in the door latch and make it closed, on the outside of the door pull the handle and it MUST drop/open the door latch!! Adjustment shouldnt be needed - but is vital or you may never open your door again.

2) Usual things apply - leave air bag in, just cable tie the foam out the way and just really keep trying to get the actuators out!

I did passenger first, and I didnt know why the E8 had to come out as didnt help me. It wasnt until I did the drivers side did I realise, it allows the window regulator to pivot the glass/window guide rail in order to get enough movement on it to pull actuator through/past it!



ONE VITAL POINT. I fitted passenger first, with door open I pressed lock, unlock and pulled door pin up/down etc - all worked great.

I then once finishing the drivers did the same....but DAMN! It just wouldnt unlock or lock by the key, or the fob?!??!?! Anyway, turns out UNLIKE the passenger, the drivers door wont lock (or cannot be tested) until the door is closed! I even spent 20min removing the new and putting the old in....to see if that did the same...and it did! So you're not in trouble if it reacts differently to the passenger as mine did!

Car sounds and opens PERFECT now THANK YOU GUYS!

Check out my pics, hope OP doesnt mind. This is worth being the best DIY ever!!









 
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