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+1
Unfortunately I replaced my actuator before this DIY was posted, and I removed the central bolt of the window rail as described in this DIY http://www.e46toronto.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=8893
{in 3. It's the left star-like bolt in (2) and it can be removed with a 6mm? socket. Remove the bolt completely (this detaches the window from the rail). Please note this bolt is reverse threaded.}.
But watch out, something fell down inside the door, and it took me another hour of work after i have finished work to find out that there were 3 parts inside that part :banghead: (see attached picture: in fact it is not my car, I took it from a DIY).
1-a plastic black cylinder, 2- a round metallic piece with a hole in it to fit the bolt, and 3- a rectangular 4x5 cm metallic piece with a rectangular hole in it .
You have to put the black plastic cylinder inside the hole of the round metallic piece, and put all this inside the rectangular hole of the big piece, and put all that inside the piece shown in the picture, with the stripes facing towards you - to inside the car-. Or else you will have your window play when you open and close it, I guess it is on the coupe models only.. so be careful .
Apart from that, all went smoothly and the lock opens and closes like brand new.
I'm changing my driver's door lock actuator right now. All has been going fine until these extra parts fell into the door - they hold the back side of the window and attach to the window regulator. Does anyone have a detail picture or drawing of the order in which they go together? I can probably take a "best" guess, but would rather have something more exact. Four pieces: plate with hooks that the window sits on?, tapered piece with lots of groves, round cambered washer and black plastic hex bushing. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Replacing Door Lock Actuator

OK - I figured it out. What a good DIY project! I started at 11:15am and finished around 3:50pm. Just over 4 1/2 hours and some of it was sitting, reading, surfing - trying to figure out how those dang loose pieces went back together. Anyway, the actuator is now working fine, just like its suppose to. My key would lock the doors, but would not open the driver's door - I always used the key manually. Now, just a push of a button and the door unlocks. Thanks to everyone that posted here with helpful steps. :thumbsup:
 

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I have a problem with the driver side window on a e46 2000ci the window is not doing the up and down motion when open or close and they the dealership parts department tells me that the sensor is inside the actuator and not on the lock part that stays in the body like the e36- any inside? since the actuator cannot be open (per this DIY) I will need to change the whole actuator is this correct?
 

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Is another symptom of a bad door lock actuator when the window fails to scoot down when you pull on the handle to open the door (then come back to when you close the door)? Thanks.
 

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can't open door

Hey guys, need help i have 2000 323 coupe my proplem is this in trying to take off lock cylinder I removed the bolt on the acutator that adjust the door that controls the release of the door latch. After doing this I took the acutator off replace the bolt put it back in the door but forgot to test to see if door latch would open before I closed the door. I closed the door and now can't open it from outside or inside. My question is there anyway to open the door. Any ideas would help.
 

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... now can't open it from outside or inside. My question is there anyway to open the door. Any ideas would help.
Damn! :ben: If your door panel is still off, can you reach up inside and pull or push on one of the actuator levers? (Picture is from (paraklas)'s post.)
 

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Just done this fix myself. Couple of points:

You dont need to take the airbag off

You do need to be forceful with the window guide when pulling it

two pairs of hands makes it a fair bit easier

All in all, with rain breaks, took my about 40 mins.
 

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Just posting some pictures of the pieces that fell apart in my door when I was trying to remove the window. Hope these help someone.
This happened to me today. The damn forum ate my last, long post, but it seems you did all the work for me. I think those pics will help me put it back together properly. Right now, the glass rattles when I close the door. PEACE.
 

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I just did this repair and it wasn't too hard. Just have a couple of hours and take your time. My symptoms were:
  1. driver's door would not unlock with fob but would manually (i.e. with key in door)
  2. window would not do the 1/4" auto up/down thingy the coupes do when you open/close the door
  3. the display would not indicate that the door was open--actually the car always thought the driver's side door was closed (so no interior lights, no warning when left keys in or headlights on).
Here are my notes for the DIY:
  1. The female Torx listed by the OP to losen the window rail bolt that is reverse threaded is and E7 (stands for "external torx" size 7).
  2. I didn't unhook the airbag. I just pulled it off and then losely rebolted to the door when I got the insulation off
  3. getting the actuator out and the new one in was the hardest part you just have to really move the window guide all over to make space. I had to put the door lock pin in after I got the new actuator inside the door.
Now all my symptoms are cured. It's great having a fully functioning Bimmer...until the gremlins strike again!

FYI - I ordered the actuator from Bimmerspecialist.com. Apparently in my model year they changed the part. Well of course I got the wrong part and of course I couldn't tell until my car was apart. But the guys at Bimmerspecialist were great. Answered my panicked email w/in 24 hours (sent on a Saturday got an answer on a Sunday) and overnighted me the right part. Good guys there.
 

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just paid $800 to have mine replaced. stupid stealership.
 

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so i just after I did the actuator replace everything works great...except that now my key doesn't work manually in the door....hmmm anyone have any thoughts?
 

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Wondering where you folks got your replacement actuators from. I'm looking at doing this soon
 

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hmmmm....

Did you properly connect the door lock cylinder with the actuator?
I believe I reconnected everything as it was on the old one. My only question during the DIY was what is the point of the door lock key. not sure exactly what that was...i bet that has something to do with my problem. It's only a problem if my batter goes dead :D
 

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Wondering where you folks got your replacement actuators from. I'm looking at doing this soon
Bimmerspecialist.com :thumbsup: The part was about $100

just be sure to give them your VIN so they can make sure you get the right part. BMW switched part mid 01 model year so I got the wrong part first but the people at bimmerspecialist.com didn't charge me return shipping or restocking or for the new part and I only had to pay $12 to get it next day AM delivery...not bad for something that wasn't their fault.
 

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Just did this whole thing... Biggest project Ive done by myself. Really nothing went wrong and it is working great..

HOWEVER: should note that you need to put the white key thing in the proper position... I had it spun the wrong way (clockwise) and the manual unlock wont work.
 
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