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The "my door locks are crazy" thread is where I found the control module info. My GM5 module is repaired and on its way back to me. When I reinstall it early next week, I will report back with my results. Wish me luck.
 

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god dam that was emotional, just spent the best part of the afternoon doing this DIY. well worth the instant results thankyou very much paraklas.
 

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Nice writeup. The only thing I would like to add is that it is not necessary to remove the bolts for the airbag. Just lift up the rubber mat from the bottom corner and you will have enough access to the railing bolts....
+1
Unfortunately I replaced my actuator before this DIY was posted, and I removed the central bolt of the window rail as described in this DIY http://www.e46toronto.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=8893
{in 3. It's the left star-like bolt in (2) and it can be removed with a 6mm? socket. Remove the bolt completely (this detaches the window from the rail). Please note this bolt is reverse threaded.}.
But watch out, something fell down inside the door, and it took me another hour of work after i have finished work to find out that there were 3 parts inside that part :banghead: (see attached picture: in fact it is not my car, I took it from a DIY).
1-a plastic black cylinder, 2- a round metallic piece with a hole in it to fit the bolt, and 3- a rectangular 4x5 cm metallic piece with a rectangular hole in it .
You have to put the black plastic cylinder inside the hole of the round metallic piece, and put all this inside the rectangular hole of the big piece, and put all that inside the piece shown in the picture, with the stripes facing towards you - to inside the car-. Or else you will have your window play when you open and close it, I guess it is on the coupe models only.. so be careful .
Apart from that, all went smoothly and the lock opens and closes like brand new.
 

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Well, I had the GM V module serviced by Scott at www.bmwgm5.com. After a few weeks, it is clear this has been my problem since the beginning. Since the repair, my door locks work 100% of the time. I am so glad I found the "crazy door looks" thread. Thanks Scott!
 

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here are my symptoms with my front driver side door (coupe)
can't unlock with remote.
can lock with remote
can unlock manually.

Is this control module problem or actuator?
BTW, my window leaks so can this cause problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
here are my symptoms with my front driver side door (coupe)
can't unlock with remote.
can lock with remote
can unlock manually.

Is this control module problem or actuator?
BTW, my window leaks so can this cause problem?
Same as mine. Are the symptoms only in 1 door or both? If both it might be the control module, if isolated in 1 door, the actuator.

If the door leaks water on the actuator then yes it can fail, water + electronics = not good.
 

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Same as mine. Are the symptoms only in 1 door or both? If both it might be the control module, if isolated in 1 door, the actuator.

If the door leaks water on the actuator then yes it can fail, water + electronics = not good.
Only 1 door is doing it. I don't know where exactly it leaks water. Since it doesnt rain that much here in TX, I haven't try to fix the leak yet.
 

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This is the DIY section.. ;)



Oh yeah.. instant lock/unlock. Everything works as it should now.

When I close the door it locks more ... quietly, in a more "just came out from factory" way. I even noticed that the driver's door locks just a bit faster than the passenger's side. Makes me think the other side actuator is a bit old.
Hello, great efforts and nice DIY pics. Very helpful. I have 2000 323 ci.I have a same problem and I checked actuator on the wab. Every time I checked actuator from any parts shops, thier actual picture of actuator is totally different from what you posted in the DIY. Also notes said fuel tank actualor. Is it the same thing? I am very confusied and can you tell me the part number for the door lock actuator . Also Can I use the same part for driver side as well as passenger side since my both sides are not working ?( I already fixed GM and did not fix the problem. Please help me.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The driver's side is different than the passengers side. Price is probably very different from the quotes you got since I live in Cyprus and generally everything is more expensive than the US. For the exact part number, you can go to http://bmwfans.info , put the last 7 digits of your VIN and you can get the correct for your car part number. The fuel tank actuator is a different thing. The images I posted are of the driver's side lock actuator of a 2001 E46 RHD.

Have you checked fuses etc? Does the boot/fuel cap lock/unlock?
 

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I have a 2004 325Ci (Coupe) that I am having trouble completing the same DIY as paraklas due to my outer (left) door handle not opening the door. My inner (left) door handle opens the door fine. The keyfob and the push button (center console) lock.unlock the doors fine. I've isolated it to a cable coming from the outer door handle inside the actual door (if you are looking at it from the bootm of the inside door panel, it'd be at the top, right where the cable connects to the outer door handle and there is a spring). There is a plastic retainer (similar to the one in A below) that pops into a "c-shaped" retainer (just like the one on the actuator in the picture below - A). Apparently this is coming off consistently, not allowing any leverage for the cable to go back to the actuator. Also, I believe the cable is stretched at the actuator point (from A to B in the picture below)where it pulls the lever to activate the actuator. Any ideas?

What would it cost if I were to take it to the dealer and just have them repair it? Would they even stick with my diagnosis? Or is it better to just have the local German auto repair shop fix it?
 

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ASPTuning
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Great post!!!

Steve
ASPTuning
 

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Door Locks

Here is my issue:
3 yrs ago, I noticed that in colder weather, the key's button would only open the driver's lock and not the other 3 locks in my 330xi sedan. If I drove for a while with the heat on for maybe an hour and the car warmed up well, all four door locks would open sometimes using the button on the key. These Locks always lock using the button on the key.

These past few months the locks rarely unlock using the button on the key however, they will always lock. To enter I have to manually open the door using the key to unlock the door and to open the rest of the doors, I have to get inside and open from the inside of the car using the latch. I lubricated the driver's side door 6 months ago and for 3 months the driver's side door would unlock and worked all the time, even in cold, although not briskly. Now the driver's side door is back to not unlocking.

In summary, all the doors do not unlock using the button on the key. They all lock using the button on the key. If warmed up considerably, they sometimes all will work unlocking using the button on the key. The center console button to unlock the door sometimes will unlock all doors if the car is warm, and will always lock.

So is it time to replace all 4 actuators? Or is it a General Module problem? Thanks
 

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here are my symptoms with my front driver side door (coupe)
can't unlock with remote.
can lock with remote
can unlock manually.

Is this control module problem or actuator?
BTW, my window leaks so can this cause problem?
I have the same problem now!

:ben:

GODDAMN U BMW - only 59k millage and my car is falling apart

lol - i have to go through my passenger door to unlock the driver door because i have the lock cylinder removed :banghead:

going back to a previous service they replaced my door actuator - soooooooooo it must be my control module :idea:
 

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yeah, i talked to scott this morning. without the carsoft reader, its kind of hard to tell whether is the mv5 or the actuators. right now i'm leaning more towards the actuator since it only affecting my driver side.
 

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Devious, I want to take back what I said to you about carsoft. I recently bought Carsoft 8.2 and it SUCKS! (Anyone want to take it off my hands?) It does not read out the codes in the GM5 and tell you if it's a relay problem. It gives some useless description like F1: 1 Control Module Failure and it doesn't even tell you the raw fault code number like PA Soft 1.3.6 does. PA Soft 1.3.6 doesn't give any description, but, at least it gives the raw fault codes. If you send me the fault codes I can tell you if the fault codes point to a problem with the door lock relays or not.

I'm planning on building a GM5 fault code reader, kinda like the Peake reader, but, without the old cheesey two digit 7-segment LED display. I'm putting in an multi-line LCD display which will read out the fault codes and a brief description so no need for a printed manual with fault code look up. It will also have built in help. Parts are ordered, I just need to finish reverse engineering the Diag bus protocol, write some code and design a PCB.
 
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