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I'm referring to the 3-disc vs 4-disc clutches, as described in the OP. And I'm asking if there's a 5-disc. That refers to the number of friction discs.
Going from 6 total (009 version) to 8 total (010 version) is already a big push, and so to squeeze in 10 discs as you’re asking (5 friction and 5 steel) from the original 6 discs would mean the new disc is too thin – not strong enough to withstand the torque on the tooth.
 

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2003 325Ci Convertible
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So, I installed a 010TU transmission in place of my 009 - is there a certain year or model of car that I should be using the transmission software for? Which cars/years had the 010TU in it?
 

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2003 325Ci Convertible
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Good to know, I installed that software on the car and seems to work well. I wonder if the EGS software actually has different shift points between the 325 and 330s. Seems the same.
 

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03 325i 01 330i 01 330ci 86 m535i 88 535i 95 540ia 95 540i/6
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Can't thank you enought for this post, now everything I've been wondering about with these transmissions is clear.

Just one thing- is it necessary to send the TC out for recon every time a bearing on the front pump has failed, or might it be reasonable to setup a pump and in line filter to flush it with re-circulating trans fluid? Seems a lot of trouble to go to, cutting it open just to clean it, then weld and rebalance, etc.
 

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2002 330ci auto
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Just one thing- is it necessary to send the TC out for recon every time a bearing on the front pump has failed, or might it be reasonable to setup a pump and in line filter to flush it with re-circulating trans fluid? Seems a lot of trouble to go to, cutting it open just to clean it, then weld and rebalance, etc.
I thought they'd re-lay clutch material inside the TC when they recon. Also if the bushing's spun then the TC neck probably need some polishing
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Can't thank you enought for this post, now everything I've been wondering about with these transmissions is clear.

Just one thing- is it necessary to send the TC out for recon every time a bearing on the front pump has failed, or might it be reasonable to set up a pump and in-line filter to flush it with re-circulating trans fluid? Seems a lot of trouble to go to, cutting it open just to clean it, then weld and rebalance, etc.
Since the bearing fails around 140-200k miles, and you have to remove the transmission, then I feel it is sage to put in a new TC at that time, as it does have wear components. In addition, the neck of the TC is extremely damaged by the spin-out, so if you were to mill it down, you would have to install and mill an oversized bearing on the pump.

See the picture of the TC in the post below.

New TC is 100000% easier and more reliable (and probably cheaper)
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I'm not seeing how that could be the cause.

The input bearing, the bearing for the torque converter and front bearing for the oil pump, is pressed into the pump housing. It's lubricated by the fluid leaking past (bleed-by) the gear pump faces. That's clean fluid since pump is drawing fluid through the filter, which presumably removes all of the chunks of debris and some of the fine particulates.

I can understand why the TC clutches are suspect. The rest of the transmission is pretty easy to tear down and inspect, but very few people are going to cut open a torque converter. They are opened for rebuild by putting them on a big lathe and cutting the welded seam. I can't think of an easy way to cut one open as a one-off. (OK, I am imagining clamping the bushing in a vise to act as a turn-table and using an angle grider with cut-off wheel.)

The best therory I've read is that the pressure relief solenoid valve jams in the valve body, resulting in high pressure and excess load on the pump. That is also what gets the blame for breaking the D/G clutch pack housing at the snap ring groove. But even that doesn't sound credible. Especially because the fix for that problem was simply cutting the rounded-edge groove a little further into the housing.
I had a seized TC (picture below for how I got it out), and the upper front valve body was not seized, nor was the associated solenoid.
Wood Pattern Metal Electric blue Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Wood
 

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Interestingly, the casting for this valve body on all models is exactly the same and has the cast part number 1060327098. However there is a different part 1060327099 for the 010, and it can be distinguished by the very elegantly hand-engraved "99" on the casting.
This is really standard for BMW, historically- the castings get a number, which may or may not correlate to some or all of a part number.
But then the casting can be machined into different parts for multiple applications. Classic were the 4- cylinder 4- speed transmissions,
which used a common front and rear casting, but could be machined into a 4- speed OR 2 parts of a 3- piece 5- speed transmission.
So I always treat any cast- in number with healthy skepticism to downright disbelief.

I'm kind of impressed that they went to the effort of marking those valve bodies at all- maybe that's a GM thing.

t
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
This is really standard for BMW, historically- the castings get a number, which may or may not correlate to some or all of a part number.
But then the casting can be machined into different parts for multiple applications. Classic were the 4- cylinder 4- speed transmissions,
which used a common front and rear casting, but could be machined into a 4- speed OR 2 parts of a 3- piece 5- speed transmission.
So I always treat any cast- in number with healthy skepticism to downright disbelief.

I'm kind of impressed that they went to the effort of marking those valve bodies at all- maybe that's a GM thing.

t
ZF not GM, and the part ordered from ZF has the marking, so it is likely them
 
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