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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My SRS light came on a while ago, and after having a shop read the codes, I was given the verdict that my SRS/airbag module had died. This unit is like the brain for the entire SRS system: it monitors and controls all the airbags, pyrotechnic seatbelt tensioners, and the battery's pyrotechnic safety terminal, and it stores crash data in the event of an accident. It is known alternately as the MRS module or, simply, the airbag control module.

The part itself is relatively easy to reach and replace; however, you will need to get the new unit flashed/coded by a shop, or someone with an applicable scan tool. This guide will show you, step by step, how to remove and replace the SRS module. It also works equally well as a guide for those that just want to remove their center console.

NOTE: Although I have experience working in an automechanic shop, I am NOT a mechanic by trade. I am not responsible for any damages incurred by the use of this guide; follow it at your own discretion. Also, because the SRS system is so integral to the car's safety features (and key to your safety), do not attempt this job if you do not feel comfortable doing so. Instead, seek out the services of a professional.

The SRS module is located in the same place for all E46 models: directly behind the shifter, over the center tunnel and below the cup holders, underneath the carpet.

Tools needed:
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers (the reversible one from the BMW kit works fine)
- Knife or box cutter
- Ratchet w/10mm socket (an extension helps, as well)

Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery cable. (This should generally be done before working on all parts of the electrical system, but is an extra good idea when working with a system as important - and sometimes delicate - as the airbag system. I don't know if it's possible, but I certainly didn't want to risk the airbags going off while I was working.)

Step 2: Remove the cup holders and coin holder by simply pulling up on them from the middle point.


Step 3: Moving to the back of the console, remove the ashtray by pushing down on the folding cover until the tray pops out.


Step 4: Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the two plastic screws in the ashtray cradle and lift it out...


Step 5: ...remembering to disconnect the wire for the convenience light on the side.


Step 6: Using the Phillips driver again, remove the two screws restraining the back of the console.


Step 7: Now there's a separate "cover" piece of the console that needs to come out. Gently insert the flathead screwdriver between the lips of the main piece and the cover piece and lift the cover up a bit. Working/pulling from the crease that separates the two pieces, carefully remove the cover. Watch out for the little "ear flaps" that cover the hinge of the armrest, as they tend to bend some and will snap if you're not careful.


Step 8: Moving to the hand brake, unclip the boot by pushing in towards the handle from the base/border. I found the easiest spot to do this was up near the corner, as shown. Lift the boot up and partway over the handle to get it out of the way, as shown in the inset.


Step 9: Now move up to the shifter and unclip the boot in the same fashion. I only used one hand in the picture to give an idea of where to push inwards (one hand had to hold the camera, afterall), but it's easiest to do so with both hands. Pull the boot up and over, like before, to get it out of the way.
Note: In the inset you can see the retaining clips that keep the boot attached.


Step 10: Remove the two Phillips screws at the base of the shifter trim. These are what hold the console down in the front; the console extends underneath the trim just a little bit, so all you really need to do is push the trim up and out of the way, but you can disconnect the window buttons after this step and remove the whole trim piece if you want.


Step 11: Now the whole console piece should be loose. Pull up from the back and carefully slide the console over the armrest and hand brake boot (gently work the boot through the opening). Don't yank it or pull it away completely quite yet, because...


Step 12: ...you need to disconnect the wiring leads for the central locking button and the emergency flashers.


Step 13: Now you should have unrestricted access to the module's location. It's located underneath the carpet, but there should be a rectangular flap that lifts up and allows you some access. Pull this flap open and fold it over, tucking it away between the seat and the center tunnel as shown. Now comes the grittiest part of the whole operation. You'll need to cut the carpet in order to get better access to the module and to reach the plug. This can be hazardous if you don't cut carefully, as there are wire clusters running underneath the carpet here in several places. Take the knife or box cutter and carefully make ~2-inch long incisions in the areas shown. I found it easiest to insert the blade only through the very top layer; the carpet rests on top of some (presumably fireproof) spongy insulation, which can easily be torn away by hand. This minimizes the risk of slicing through wiring accidentally.
Note: The connector plug for the module is under the cut point at the bottom-left of the picture below. The reason you need to cut around here is that the plug is virtually unreachable otherwise. Cutting an opening here will also let you maneuver the module later (to provide easier access to the plug) by giving the wire cluster space to move.


Step 14: Using the ratchet and 10mm socket, remove the three nuts keeping the module bolted down. Gently remove the ground wire underneath the bottom nut.


Step 15: Find the yellow connector plug at the base of the module. Pull the white slider to the right to unlock and detach the plug.


Step 16: Install the new module and get it coded (I suggest you do this before you put everything back together, just in case there are any problems). Finally, reinstall everything by following the reverse of the removal procedure (remember to return the ground wire to its place).


Congratulations! Your SRS module should now be good, your airbags will work again, that pesky SRS light will no longer be illuminated, and everything should be back to normal. :woot:

Thanks for reading. Feel free to shoot me any questions or comments. :hi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Which pics? My browser shows all of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Damn, that's strange, I can see them all. I'll try re-upping them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great DIY guide - I might need to do this... my MRS module will not communicate with either a GT1 computer nor the Peake SRS tool.

Do you know what code or symptoms indicate that this module is definitely in need of being replaced?

My car has never been involved in a collision, so I'm not sure if replacement is needed.
My car was never in a collision, either - it seems the module was just old and the electronics started to fry (although I must admit, I'm suspicious as to whether or not it had something to do with my aftermarket lighting setup messing with the electrical system. Probably not, but... :dunno:)

I'm not sure what codes were thrown. I had the SRS light pop on and got a shop to check it out. IIRC, they said it was throwing a code that designated the module was faulty. They gave me a code number but I believe I tossed the invoice of the initial diagnosis a while ago.
 
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