[silentguy]

Thanks for this DIY.
I did this in a couple of hours last night.

Some notes which may help others.

I didnt use the capacitors and resistor on the AUX cable.
The only impact I see is that "AUX" doesnt show until you power on your Ipod.

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Edit : impact is also that you can't charge and play IPhone at the same time when using cigarette lighter and AUX cable
After installing the Capacitors and resistors charge and play at the same time works.
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I used computer connectors from old computer case, these were for LEDs and Hard drive.
I used two, 2-pin connectors for the 3 connections needed for AUX cable.

To take out the Radio Head Unit, first remove right side dashboard panel, then center panel above the radio.
You cant take off the center dash panel without first taking off the right side dash panel.

For the 3.5" mini stereo plug, tip is Left channel, middle ring is right channel, and base is ground.
I had to look this up.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereo_plug
Look near the secton called Tip/ring/sleeve terminology
There is a table and a photo.

I took off the Manual transmission boot, undid some screws,
then removed lower storage bins.
See Going Nuts dash tear apart for pictures.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=644722

Post #12 and #14 were helpful in getting the Manual transmission leather boot off,
and the lower storage bin off.

For getting the dash panel trim off look at the earlier pics. Post #5.
But my car is a Left hand drive North American, so the trim pieces are different.
I removed the passenger side/Right dashboard trim piece first, and then the center dashboard trim piece.

I threaded the 3.5" stereo cable down to the bottom storage bin,
and then just friction fit the cable with the bin.
There's enough clearance to get the cable out, no need to drill any holes.

I will try and take some pics tonight.


Thanks again for this DIY.

I now have Ipod and Pandora from my Iphone in my car.

 

[silentguy]

Some pics.

The wire from an old PC case.
This one is a 3 connector, but I used two, 2 connector wires.
One for the 2 PLUS pins, and one for the ground.(with the extra wire unused)

Also a pic of the back of the radio.
AUX pins are on the right.

 

[silentguy]

also another method i wrote up not too long ago. Same concept, just doesn't require resistors or anything and you tap into the cd changer from the trunk rather than getting into the dash:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=818371&highlight=

Thanks for that, I didnt have a CD changer though,
but fortunately I had 2002+ Head Unit that had AUX pins.

 

[silentguy]

More pics

Pics of:

3.5" Mini Stereo cable coming out the bottom storage bin

Bottom storage bin ashtray insert removed, showing cable threaded thru hole

Bottom Storage bin cover closed, note it does not close exactly flush,
so if you want flush fitting you may need to drill a hole or find another place to route the cable.

Also, note that the cable will get somewhat compressed, depending on it's thickness, so there is the chance to break it if it is fragile.
My cable was fairly thick, and strong, and while the outside rubber is compressed I dont see any danger to breaking the cable.
A thinner cable might fit better, but not be as strong.


Below first pic, bottom bin door closed, not exactly flush

 

[silentguy]

3.5" mini stereo cable

Cable exit at bottom bin

 

[silentguy]

Bottom bin ashtray removed, showing hole where cable threaded

Note the compression of cable rubber

 

[silentguy]

A little more explanation of the cable threading.

I had to remove the Manual transmission boot, the plastic cover surrounding the transmision (but I did not disconnect the window switch connectors) just enough to get to the screws for the lower bin housing.
I remove the lower bin housing enough so that I could thread the cable from the back of the stereo headunit, down to the lower bin.
I did not have to completely remove the lower bin side housing, just loosen it. I think 6 or so screws removed in total.

I did not remove the seat warmer switches or the Air con/Heat controls, those remained untouched.

I did remove the upper storage bin, which just pulls out no screws involved, this helps to see where the cable is and in threading it.
I was just able to fish the cable from the head unit back, all the way down to the bottom storage bin.

It's not hard, and should be easier for people now with the pics I took. I was a bit apprehensive at first about removing dash panel trims, but as long as you use a small screwdriver and maybe tape it to protect the dash, and carefully pry, it is not hard. Just work from the edge and use small force at first

 

[silentguy]

Cable length was about 2 feet for the 3.5" mini,
the PC computer LED cables were another foot or so.
Total length of the cables was approx 3 feet, which is more than enough to reach the bottom ashtray bin.

I have at least a foot of cable coming out the bottom bin.

If you want less, you can just leave more of it behind the dash.

I just want the extra foot at the bottom to maybe extend further to cup holder if needed, but in fact I didnt need it, as I place the iphone in a dock which rests in the ashtray bin.

I probably could have done with 6inches or less of 3.5" plug at the bottom bin

 

[silentguy]

Question for anyone who has done AUX cable DIY.

When I connect Iphone to cigarette lighter and iPhone charges, and use the AUX cable, this cuts out the AUX signal, and no music plays.
The iphone is fine with the AUX cable and bagttery power only.

This is both using an Iphone dock with line out , and the headphone out.

Is this an iphone thing ?

I can live with battery power alone I guess, as most of my trips are about 1 hour.

 

[silentguy]

Found this on another 20 page thread, will try the caps and resistor and see if that solves the iphone charge and play at the same time issue.



Quote:
Originally Posted by demens View Post
Quick question:

How to play music and charge at the same time (using the cigarette charger)?

Everyone mentioned ground loop isolators or noise filters. Another poster talked about the cap/resistor in the proper cable. So i'm confused. In order to charge and play do you need the caps and resistor PLUS a ground loop isolator or do people with the simpler cable need that?
I'd imagine either-or, as the caps & resistor circuit acts as a noise filter. I can verify that only using the caps & resistor allowed my iPod & iPhone to both play & charge.

 

[silentguy]

I can confirm that the two .22 uF capacitors and 330kohm resistor soldered into the aux cable allow iPhone 4 to charge and play thru AUX in at the same time

I soldered the 330kohm resistor different than the picture, both leads are on the Head Unit side of the AUX cable, after the Capacitors


Thanks again to everyone contribution to this DIY