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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dont flame me please:)

Got the idea from Dinan's snorkel CAI. Which has proven a few HP gain.

For me 2-5 hp for a few hundred dollars is not the best place to spend $.

3 things i love about it:
Cold air
positive pressure on filter (mtech II bumper)
higher velocity, laminar flow to MAF


Being the crafty/cheapskate that i am i decided i am going to make my own. Its just a smooth tube with a filter on the end.

I found this thread and will probably use the same tube he did from autozone.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1286875


Any thoughts on this guys? Anyone do anything similar or have some advice on hardware to use?
 

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I did this with my civic for like 5 years, worked fine, you wouldnt notice 2-5hp in a leaf blower, let alone a bmw. The only down side is now your bimmer has a homemade tube intake instead of a nice brand name CF one....

GL, its not hard to do lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
GOt it all setup last night, went back to the store to get some different angles this morning....... Fits like a charm now.


Pros:
looks kinda cool
sucking noise
Only $60 and 2 hours
and by far the coolest thing so far; between 1.5K and 2.5K there is a slight whistle togo with the sucking woosh, going up and letting off the throttle it gives the same noise.


Cons:
The computer is still adjusting, idles rough a bit, mpg is down.
Chrome finish, prolly gonna paint matte black once im bored.



Will monitor over the next few miles and see what we get.

If anyones interested i can post up the angles and length of tubes i used.
 

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I like your style. I support this.

Only thing I disagree with is the "computer" is adjusting. It doesn't have to adjust because there's not a significant difference in the air going into your motor. If anything, clean off your MAF, you may have unintentionally messed with it during the DIY. Just get a bottle of MAF cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I like your style. I support this.

Only thing I disagree with is the "computer" is adjusting. It doesn't have to adjust because there's not a significant difference in the air going into your motor. If anything, clean off your MAF, you may have unintentionally messed with it during the DIY. Just get a bottle of MAF cleaner.
It was rough for about 15/20 minutes, i then took it for a 2 mile spirited drive.
Idle was smooth......

But yes this morning when i had it apart again i cleaned the MAF because i thought the exact same thing as you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
my main concern atm is the low MPG, dropped from like 25.7 to 22.5. Almost like its running rich, like less air.

ORRRRRRRRRR it cud be the 20 minutes of WOT. lol
 

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How did you secure it? Because if you didnt, it'll wobble all over the place and soon enough your throttle body rubber boot will be torn to pieces due to play.
 

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+1 on this. Like you said, its just a snorkel tube between the bottom of the air box to the brake duct - kind of disappointing from Dinan, you'd think they'd have crafted something a little better. Just get yourself a quality air filter.

FYI - it is possible to purchase just the top of the Dinan intake system. Or, you can carbon fiber-wrap your top or paint it... either way a nice performance boost on the cheap, and you did it yourself. Props for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I must say ive driven it like 15 miles so far and ive had the radio off the whole time just to hear my "blow off valve" lmao
 

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my main concern atm is the low MPG, dropped from like 25.7 to 22.5. Almost like its running rich, like less air.

ORRRRRRRRRR it cud be the 20 minutes of WOT. lol
Not less air. You arent per se running "rich."

Well, theoretically, adding more air requires more fuel to maintain a 14.7:1 ratio, thus lowering your MPG. I say theoretically, because I dont know how efficient your homemade DIY induction is. Maybe you've figured out a "******* way" to engineeer and channel a substantial amount more air flow (I doubt it) than a commercially available intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The reason i said rich is it smelt rich (ive worked with carbs alot on my '74 2002) and it crossed my mind that the new intake was suffocating the engine. As the idle was toughing not racing (like a carbed engine). But im not too sure about how ECU's adjust to different conditions.

I also dont think i have made anything substantially better, but like i said i modeled it after Dinans snorkel intake (very simple design). So unless they put a polished cyclonic surface for the air to ride it should perform around par with it. same angles, same smooth surface, prolly not as free flowing filter element as dinans.

That is a good call about more fuel for more air, since i have more air i can now add more fuel under load. i guess i will see how it levels out over the next few days without driving like a madman.
 

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Reviving this thread with a question. I've heard some people say they don't like this setup because there isn't a heat shield protecting the tube from the engine. Any thoughts on spraying the tube with VHT heat-resistant ceramic coating? If it keeps heat in my headers, why wouldn't it keep heat out of my air intake?

This may be an awful idea, I want input.
 
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