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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is the Ultimate resource for people who want to do the 5 speed conversion. Paired with the DIY by Ivegotissues666, you should be golden.

This thread is going to be oriented more towards the process side of the swap rather than the DIY. I will include my own documentation and pictures of the swap but there will not be as much detail in the mechanical side as Ivegotissues666's DIY. If you have a hard time following DIYs and filling in possible gaps in information, you might want to invest in a Bentley manual.

Here are all my resources I used:

www.realOEM.com<---------------------------------- Part number lookup
www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en <------ BMW WDS (every wiring diagram)

Members I referred to for help. Thanks to you guys VERY much :)


I decided to go for the swap because I plan to keep my car for a very long time and selling it was unrealistic for me. I've already put about $4000 in this car, replacing just about everything and making this car pretty much brand new. We will start with prices:

If you are a DIY kind of person, you can expect to pull the swap for about $2500. This includes pretty much all OEM parts, some aftermarket.

OEM Parts:

Transmission ~15k miles---------$485----------------------------Local BMW Salvage yard
Sachs Clutch---------------------- $247-------------------------- TurnerMotorsport
OEM Luk flywheel------------------$385---------------------------Autozone
New OEM driveshaft--------------$610.04------------------------BMW Dealership

Various OEM parts - BMW Dealership / Tischer / TurnerMotorsport

I'm just the kind of person who likes to buy *new* used things so I hunted for the best transmission I could find for the price. It came from a 1998 BMW 328i. I checked on realOEM and it has the same model and part number, exactly for my 328Ci. After I did the shift pin service on it, I realized that the car it came out of might have been a 1998, but the transmission itself is wayyy newer. Because it doesn't have a VIN number on the transmission and the build date on it is newer. My guess is that the previous owner of this transmission had a problem and BMW just replaced the transmission rather than doing the 5th/reverse gear detent fix. I guess that's what BMW did back in the day before they decided to make TSBs...

Back on track: Then I started to buy the goodies, new OEM Luk flywheel from Autozone. Proceeded to buy the OEM Sachs Clutch kit from TurnerMotorsport for $250 and added a SS Clutch line. I felt like doing the swap right the first time so I also threw in the UUC EVO3 + DSSR from Turner. Bought all new parts and pieces from my friend at the dealer, which I got for around $500. This doesn't include the rear main seal kit or transmission repair kit to fix the "stick rests at 5th gear" problem. The driveshaft I COULD NOT find anywhere, so I had to buy a brand new one from my friend at the BMW dealer. $610.04... damn. Oh well, at least I don't have to worry about bad U-joints or a bent shaft. If you need to replace you rear main seal, tack on another $150 because if you neglect to replace a leaking seal, your clutch will slip because of all the oil so just go ahead and assume that the entire parts list comes around to a total of $3000 properly done. Also, a known problem with these manual transmissions is the "shifter rests at 5th gear" problem. There is a TSB out for this and if you decide to repair your transmission, tack on another $50 to the entire cost. Your transmission will feel brand new and yeah, do it.

If you decide to do the 5th/reverse fix, it's very wise to fix the shifter pins as well because the transmission is already out. There are 3 shifter pins plus the pins for 5th/reverse.

Here are the parts you need:

Reverse gear/5th gear fix
Qty 2 - Repair kit: 23 11 7 542 726
Locking pins: 23 31 7 502 165 / 23 31 1 224 849

Shift pin service
Qty 3 - Repair kit: 23 11 7 525 048
Qty 3 - Sealing caps: 23 31 7 222 988

And the DIY:


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219285 <-------- real DIY with good pictures


All in all, DIY total comes around to $3000... this includes the UUC EVO3 SSK that I also purchased from TurnerMotorsports (I figured I could buy one nice aftermarket piece right?). The new driveshaft came with the guibo but if you find a good used driveshaft, you will still need to buy a new guibo. You also need new manual transmission fluid so tack on another $35 to that price. Like I said before, if you shop smart, you can do the conversion for under $2500, it might be less if you can find a good used driveshaft... It might be a lot more if you decide that you need the UUC stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch combo! It really doesn't matter though, the swap will still be around $2500-3000 DIY or $4000-5000 professionally done.

For an average person like me, DIY is the way to go. I cannot afford having a shop do this for me, as it would cost into 5k as some of the members here have posted. I simply cant justify spending that much, half of that is ok...

We will start with a parts list. This is for my 328Ci so if you have a 323/325/330, these parts will have different parts number. This is PRETTY MUCH the Official 5 Speed parts list. The ones listed in bold are special order parts so good luck getting most of them at your local BMW parts counter. Prices are listed next to the parts, most of them are from Pelican parts or BavAuto. Some of the bigger parts you can get at BMA Parts. All of the prices are listed considering the quantity of the parts. So those are the prices for those listed numbers of parts.

5 speed parts list Prices

Gearbox Support:

1 - GEARBOX SUPPORT------------------------22 31 6 769 911------$37.95
4 - HEX BOLT WITH WASHER-------------22 31 1 091 785------$4

Linkage Parts

1 - SHIFTING ARM ---------------------------- 25 11 1 434 109-----$19.95
1 - BUSH BEARING OVAL --------------------- 25 11 7 507 695-----$2.95
1 - BEARING BOLT ---------------------------- 25 11 1 221 849-----$4.95
1 - BEARING, SHIFTING ARM ---------------- 25 11 1 222 015-----$16.95
1 - BEARING, SHIFT LEVER ------------------ 25 11 1 220 600-----$10
1 - RUBBER BOOT ---------------------------- 25 11 7 522 149-----$18
4 - PLASTIC WASHER ------------------------- 25 11 1 220 439----$2
2 - CIRCLIP -------------------------------------25 11 1 220 379----$1.85
1 - GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT --------------------25 11 1 222 688----$13.95

Pedal Assembly

1 - BRAKE PEDAL ---------------------------- 35 20 6 752 649------$30.95
1 - RUBBER PAD ----------------------------- 35 21 1 160 422------$4.95
3 - FLAT FUSES ------------------------------ 07 12 9 934 921 ----- $3
4 - BUSH BEARING -------------------------- 35 21 1 158 290 ----- $8
4 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 35 41 1 113 728------ $4
1 - RETURN SPRING -------------------------35 30 1 165 321 ----- $1
1 - CLUTCH SWITCH STARTLOCK------------61 31 8 363 710 -----$40
1 - CLUTCH PEDAL -------------------------- 35 31 1 163 870 ----- $36
1 - PIN, MASTER CYLINDER -----------------35 31 1 163 874------$3
1 - RUBBER PAD -----------------------------35 21 1 108 634------ $4.95
1 - CLIP -------------------------------------- 51 48 8 245 867------$1


1 - GROOVED BALL BEARING ----------------11 21 1 720 310-----$9.95


1 - BALL PIN ---------------------------------- 21 51 1 223 328-----$1.95
6 - FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW------------------07 11 9 901 023-----$6

Clutch Control

1 - INPUT CYLINDER CLUTCH ----------- 21 52 6 758 822 -----$68

1 - HEX BOLT --------------------------------- 07 11 9 901 539 ----- $.95
1 - HEX BOLT M6X45 --------------------- 07 11 9 912 324 ---- $.95
1 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 900 191 ----- $1
1 - PIN, MASTER CYLINDER ----------------- 35 31 1 163 874 ----- $1.25
1 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 21 52 1 156 082 ----- $1.50
1 - PIPE -------------------------------------- 21 52 6 753 332 ----- $18
1 - SUPPORT PRESSURE HOSE---------------21 52 1 163 906 ----- $1
1 - RUBBER GROMMET--------------------21 52 1 165 819 ---- $1.50
1 - CLIP -------------------------------------- 34 34 1 163 565 ----- $1
1 - PIPE -------------------------------------- 21 52 6 774 230 ----- $17.50
2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ------------ 07 12 9 904 877 ---- $2
2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 906 196 ----- $2
1 - GROMMET -------------------------------- 21 52 1 163 894 ----- $1.50
1 - PIPE CLIP -------------------------------- 16 12 1 176 767 ------ $1
1 - MODULE, CLUTCH SWITCH-----------61 31 6 905 900 ---- $35
2 - ADAPTER LEAD ---------------------------61 11 6 911 072 ----- $14
1 - HOSE ------------------------------------- 21 52 1 163 714 ----- $9.75

Driveshaft Components

6 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------26 11 7 523 709-----$18
6 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ---------------- 07 12 9 900 047-----$6

Exhaust Suspension

1 - BRACKET -----------------------------------18 31 1 728 254--------
2 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 901 120
4 - RUBBER BUSHING ------------------------ 18 20 7 546 579
2 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 913 111
2 - SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT ----------------- 07 12 9 964 675 - total - $17
1 - EXHAUST SUPPORT ----------------------- 18 30 1 436 331
1 - CLAMP LOWER ---------------------------- 18 10 1 433 250
1 - HEX BOLT ---------------------------------- 07 11 9 904 533--------

Gearbox Mounting

2 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 891-------
2 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 894
3 - TORX BOLT -------------------------------- 23 00 1 222 887 - total - $10
1 - HEX BOLT ----------------------------------07 11 9 904 094
2 - DOWEL ------------------------------------ 11 11 7 524 470
2 - TORX BOLT ---------------------------------07 12 9 904 681-------

Parts you might need if they don't already come with the transmission

1 - OUTPUT CYLINDER,CLUTCH---------------21 52 6 766 279 --------$50.91
1 - CLUTCH REL.FORK LEVER-----------------21 51 1 223 302
1 - VENT SCREW ----------------------------- 21 52 1 116 360
1 - DUST CAP -------------------------------- 34 11 1 153 198
1 - UNIVERSAL JOINT ----------------------- 26 11 7 511 454
1 - Center Mount -----------------------------26 12 7 501 257
1 - Twin Mass Flywheel ---------------------- 21 21 7 512 474
1 - SPRING CLIP ----------------------------- 21 51 1 223 234
1 - SPRING CLIP ----------------------------- 21 51 7 570 284

I went back and I also noticed I forgot to add these parts:

2 - Exhaust gasket(FLAT GASKET)-----------18 30 1 440 183------$10.88
~ - assorted electrical connectors
10 - BMW replacement temperature sensor wire connectors (trust me)

You also will need to get the shifter knob of your choice, I opted for the weighted ZHP knob from Tischer. Also, you need the manual shifter boot, I also got that from Tischer.

You will need 2 liters of manual transmission fluid as well. After a lot of research I decided to get RP Synchromax from my local Napa Auto store. When I bought the transmission from my local salvage yard, I guess they drained the fluid from the transmission, because there was no fluid when we went to flush it and fill it with Royal Purple. btw, the Synchromax feels great, shifts are so smooth and I have no problems with any of the shifter gates/shift pins. I haven't driven more than 200 miles since the swap so I cant tell you how RP is in the long run but I'll let you know.

The last part I forgot to get until the last minute was the clutch alignment tool for self adjusting clutches or SACs. The SAC uses a special tool unlike regular sprung clutch assemblies. You can get the tool from Pelican Parts for $17. That's where I got it from but I needed overnight shipping so the total came to around $40. It's the tool in the picture of the shift knob + shift boot.

I cross-referenced these part numbers with the realOEM part printouts I already had and came up with prices and updated part numbers and such. You should do the same. Btw, I'm not liable for any mis-ordered parts. Use this list at your discretion.

Here is a picture of the manual transmission. This is after I soaked it in purple power degreaser and scrubbed it down. It was really clean when I first picked it up though. Be sure to get the same transmission realOEM says is for your car. My car used a ZF S5D 320Z THMW, the car I got if from used the exact transmission. The only difference between most of the transmissions you will find is the 4 letter combination at the end, I'm not sure if its a final drive ratio code or something but I didn't want to mess around and experiment. Here are a bunch of pictures!!


Before you do this swap, you should be very schooled in the electronics of E46s. I read up on everything I needed to know in advance. Neutral safety switch, reverse lights, recoding all the modules with the GT1, ect. KNOW your stuff before you get involved in the swap otherwise you might regret it later. Use the link to the WDS I linked so you can study up!

The electronic side of the swap involves getting this information from your car:

SA code

Then removing the automatic transmission option from the SA and recompiling the SA to that of a manual transmission car. Then you reapply the SA into the car and recode all the modules to a manual transmission. You will need access to a BMW GT1 or Autologic system. I used the one at my local BMW dealership but if you don't have access. Just kindly ask your service manager to help you out and do the coding. It will probably cost you 2 hours of labor or just the flat rate fee of re-flashing your car's ECU. There is no need to replace your ECU or replace your instrument cluster or anything. Just have to recode all the modules in your car.

I planned this to be a 4 week project. 1 week to research the swap, 1 week to get the parts, 1 weekend to do the swap (my friend is a freaking pro btw), and 1 week to finish up and code the car. This didn't turn out like I wanted it to... It took about 3 weeks to get all the parts and another 2 weeks to even begin the swap. Also, be prepared to leave yourself a couple of days without a car at least. I have my super awesome E23 beater car so transportation wasn't my main concern but if it's yours, plan ahead. I know that I had to run to the store multiple times during the swap for random things so you definitely will need access to another car during the conversion.

Use Ivegotissues666's DIY for the mechanical side of the swap, the part for swapping the transmission:


Or use mine, Which starts here:

Ok, you are ready to begin your E46 manual conversion. You will need a well lit area with a lot of space. I chose my garage as I could just pull my car in diagonally and leave it there safely over the course of the swap.


Get the car on ramps and or jack stands. I got ahold of 4 jackstands and a good jack. I used the factory jackpoints in the rear of the car and in the front, I put the jackstands on the frame rails. Put your e-brake on as you don't want the car rolling around while you are jacking up on it.

Step 1:

When I was reading Ivegotissues666's DIY, he recommended removing the drivers seat in order to have easier access for installing the clutch pedal. I decided that this was a waste of time but let me tell you, you really should remove the drivers seat. If you choose not to remove the seat, at least move the seat all the way back and recline it all the way. Next, remove the negative cable to your car battery.

Step 2:

You will need to start out by removing the exhaust. There are two hangers in the rear of the car holding the muffler in (4 - 13mm nuts) and two braces halfway down the exhaust (8 - 13 mm bolts). Moving your way up to the exhaust manifold, there are 4 - 13mm nuts that hold the exhaust on. These will more than likely be seized on so you might need a blow torch. I was lucky and they came loose without a fuss.

Step 3:

Removing the heatshields! This was the easiest part of the swap in my opinion, there are 4 - 13mm bolts holding the larger heatshield on that covers most of the driveshaft. The other smaller heatshield has 3 - 10mm nuts I believe.

Heatsheilds removed! To make it simple just remove the 3 bolts from the driveshaft to the flex disc (aka guibo) leaving the flex disc still attached to the transmission with give you something to hold onto while pulling the transmission out. I wasnt thinking when I was removing the driveshaft and just wasted my time removing the other 3 bolts that attach the guibo to the transmission. The bolts and nuts are 18mm, you will need two 18mm wrenches.

Hex nuts holding the center mount and bearing in place.

Differential bolts (These are inverse torx bolts, don't remember the size)

Driveshaft removed!

Step 4:

Removing the transmission. It is recommended that you support the transmission with a jack when you are taking out the bell housing bolts. I found that the bell housing is so seized on the engine, that you don't need to support the transmission at all. If you only have one floor jack, put it under the A/C compressor with a piece of wood on the jack pad to distribute the stress and jack up on the front of the motor. This allows you to have easier access to the top 2 transmission bolts. Remove the engine support brace to tilt the engine and transmission in order to access the bolts on top of the bell housing though.

Disconnecting the gear selector cable.

Disconnecting the Autos wiring harnesses.

Ok, now the fun part. You need to remove the oil cooler lines that run into the side of the transmission. These are a PITA! They pour oil everywhere! You push in on the locking clip and turn it to remove the lines. One of the clips wouldn't release on my swap so I just ended up cutting the rubber line and leaving the connector on there. No harm done

You do not need to remove the starter bolts. Once the bolts are removed at the top of the bell housing the transmission will come free without the starter attached.

In order to remove some of the bell housing bolts you will need like 10 socket extensions though. Roughly enough to run the entire length of the transmission. Make sure to be very careful when you are removing the bell housing bolts, if you are not using the correct size socket, it will literally ruin your day.

Before you drop the transmission, you will need to remove the gear selector. So wash your hands (you wouldn't want to get grease all over your clean interior) and move inside of your car!

First off, open the top compartment in your center console. You can pull out on it and it will slide out fairly easily. There are 2 screws holding the compartments (for lack of the correct word) in. You will need to get this piece out in order to remove the steptronic assembly. Once you remove the connectors to the window switches and such, there are 3 hex head bolts holding the steptronic assembly in. You will need to disconnect the parking lock cable in order to take the assembly out of the car. Just use a small flat head screwdriver and pry the clip aside. It doesn't matter if you bend it right? Its not like you need this steptronic shifter anymore...

Now back under the car looking at the front of the transmission you will see this little rubber plug called an access plug. Remove this and you can see the torque converter. There are 3 bolts bolting the flywheel to the torque converter. In order to visually see them you have to turn the crankshaft in order to see them in the access hole. Once you see them use your socket, I believe it was a 17mm bolt

In order to manually turn the crankshaft, get a 22mm socket on the front of the crank and have a buddy use a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft until the torque converter bolts come into sight.

Autotragic out! This thing was super heavy and we had to lay it on its side in order to slide it out from underneath the car.

That's the 1st half of the swap - Removal of old parts

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
2nd half of the swap - Intallation of new parts

Step 5: (The transition step)

This begins the assembly process. You are no longer taking out parts but putting new ones back in! So look over your parts

ZHP knob and boot from Tischer (great sponsor)

And the shift pin / 5th gear / reverse service kits (if you choose to do so)

Refer to this DIY:

Step 6:

Installation of the clutch control and pedal assembly. This is the part I spoke of in the beginning of removing the seat before you disconnected the battery granted you have power seats that is. It makes it so much easier by being able to lie down while installing the new pedal assembly.

Assembled master cylinder (mounted the clutch module on the master cylinder and attached one adapter lead. Also attached the hose that goes to the brake reservoir nipple)

Assembled slave cylinder (UUC SS Clutch line attached to oddly shaped high pressure line)

realOEM printout of the pedal assembly (I suggest printing out all of the required parts diagrams. It came in handy multiple times)

View of the brake pedal assembly

How the clutch master cylinder mounts to the clutch pedal assembly

You will need to pull back the carpet BEFORE you start the new pedal assembly. I didnt and it was a PITA because the clutch pedal was in the way. If you have a footrest trim piece, just rip it out. Mine was so brittle I broke it in half and I ended up buying a new one from the dealer after the swap. Only cost me $9.

For the high pressure line that runs from the master cylinder into the firewall, there is a punchout that you need to remove which is black felt. This is why you need to pry back the carpet because this hose runs underneath it. It runs under the carpet towards the accelerator pedal area.

I didnt take any pictures here because there wasnt any room. And I was so aggravated at those little circlips that hold the pedals on the car. Just refer to Ivegotissues666's DIY and you will be golden. I'm just trying to fill in the gaps between his DIY and what I encountered.

Step 7:

Installation of the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and transmission.

The bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crankshaft are freaking tight! This is where you will need a pal to use that 22mm to hold the crank in place while you break these bolts loose.

Old Flywheel bolts removed

Flywheel removed! (Yeah, my rear main seal leaks like a mofo)

Ok, here is where I stopped taking pictures for a while. I was running into a lot of problems and I didnt have time to hold a camera and take pictures. I was between jumping up and referring to my bentley manual and looking at internet advice!

You will need to install the pilot bearing into the crankshaft and this is where I had major problems. It seemed like the bearing wouldnt press in all the way into the crankshaft. I used the blunt end of the appropriately sized socket and hammered it in as best I could.

You will need to put the new manual flywheel onto the crank using the new, longer bolts. Your helper will need to hold onto that 22mm socket on the end of the crank when you are torquing the flywheel bolts down. I torqued them to 90 ft/lbs maybe? Dont remember, its really hard sitting down after the swap is completed and trying to remember all the bolt sizes and torque specs... lol

This is where the PROPER clutch alignment tool comes into play. If you went with the stock SAC (self adjusting clutch), you needed to buy the special tool from Pelican parts. Its in the picture with my ZHP knob and boot. You unscrew the bolt from the end of it and stick it into the pilot bearing and use it to center the clutch plate. DONT REMOVE THE SHIPPING PLATE FROM THE SAC PRESSURE PLATE!!! Then you put the SAC pressure plate onto the flywheel with the clutch plate being sandwiched in between and torque the hex bolts down. There are 6 hex socket bolts I believe were 6mm and you should tighten exactly like you were tightening your lug nuts.

Once you torque the pressure plate down, use a 14mm HEX!!! (its huge and its hard to find, I got a set from AutoZone for like $30) to undo the shipping plate that comes sprung into the pressure plate. The pressure plate might pop into place and it will reveal the SAC alignment tool stuck into the pilot bearing. Screw the bolt into the back of the alignment tool and pull it out. It's as simple as that.

You need to install the new clutch release bearing that came with the new clutch kit onto the input spline of the transmission. Lubricate the spline with some of the stuff that comes with the clutch kit. And put a little lube on the clutch fork where it contacts the release bearing.

AND NOW, reinstalling the new transmission. It is at least it's 100 lbs lighter than that freaking slush box. My friend bench pressed the transmission into place and yeah, he's crazy. The most difficult part though is making sure that the starters teeth stay aligned with the flywheel. At times when trying to push the transmission on, it would slightly move the starter. Just have patience and you'll eventually get it.

Rebolt up the bell housing to engine and start installing the new cross member brace to support the transmission. Manual transmission in!

Step 8:

Reinstalling the new manual transmission driveshaft. Start by installing it to the flex disc first. This way, you can align it with the differential easier. Leave the transmission in neutral if it's not already. This way if you put the transmission in neutral, you will be able to rotate the driveshaft and align the bolt pattern fairly easily.

You are supposed to add whats called "butyl tape" to the center support of the driveshaft. I didnt buy that... So i ran up to AutoZone and got some 3M double sided trim tape. Works like magic! haha, but no really, it's cheaper and its effective if you are pressed for time.

Step 9:

Whew! The drivetrain is complete! Now you can wire the car to start! But first, the reverse lights. For the reverse lights all I did was remove the plug from the transmission once it was installed. I ran up to radioshack and got some flat style plug electrical connectors. So I could just plug two wires into the reverse light switch. I reinstalled the sensor back on the transmission and ran the wires to the glove box were there was a reverse light terminal above the fuse panel as stated by Ivegotissues666's DIY. Just refer to it to see the proper connector, I was too lazy to tear into my glove box so I skipped on installing the reverse light switch. I just have the wires running into the "drug storage compartment" in the engine, so when I actually feel like wiring the lights, it wont be too terrible.

OK! Now onto greater things! Now for the clutch switch and clutch switch module. The module is attached to the clutch master cylinder and the clutch switch is mounted on the pedal assembly's frame. The clutch switch goes in one of the mounting holes in the pedal assembly. The bottom one so that when you depress the clutch pedal, it presses the actuator in. Once you swap the transmission, to get the car to start, you will need to wire the clutch safety switch as so:

Its a 3 pin connecter

Clutch Switch:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)

It's connected in parallel to the Clutch Switch Module which is mounted on the side of the clutch master cylinder.

Clutch Switch Module:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 4 - Goes to EWS Pinout #8

What I did was quicktap all the wires of the same together. So i quick tapped both pin 1 wires together, both pin 2 wires together and ran them up into the DME, and I quick tapped both pin 3 wires together and tapped them into the power wire of the brake light switch which I believe was pin 2. Pin 1 of the brake light switch was the ground btw.

Here are some added pictures of the DME wiring:

Where the DME is located, in the engine compartment near the brake fluid reservoir

closer look, there are 4 allen head bolts you need to remove:

cover removed, mess of wires. Where do I connect it!!! ahhh! (you can see the clutch switch wire I ran, its the long white wire coming from near the firewall area)

Where DME connection A60004 is. You unclip it and there are two sets of connectors clipped in. The pinouts are labeled and you need to run the wires into pinout #23. (you can see the clutch switch wire I ran, its the long white wire running into the back of the connector)

Once you do that. You should be able to start the car no problem. There will be an error light on the instrument cluster telling you that your transmission has failed. Don't worry about this, it will be fixed when you re-flash the car's ECU and all the modules I will talk about next.

In order to do the swap you will need to know just about everything about the electronics involved in the swap. You will first need to take your car to the BMW dealership and have a Tech get the ZCS (GM SA VN) information from the car. If you are completely serious about the swap, give this information to me and I'll have your SA coded to that of a manual transmission car. Your dealership or indy shop will then need to apply the new SA code to the car then reprogram all the modules in the car and then finally reflash the ECU to manual transmission. You wont have any error lights on the dash and your car will think it's a true manual. Because it is.

Ok, I just rambled on about coding. And I havent even coded my car yet... haha, Ok then, onto the next step!

Step 10:

This is the final step! (other than coding) Reinstalling the exhaust. Exhaust installation is reverse of removal as shown but with a slightly different mounting system due to the new manual transmission. First reinstall the heatshields.

Installing the hangers that go along with the new manual transmission!

Step 11:

Can I haz UUC EVO3 + DSSR?

Now moving onto the UUC SSK + DSSR. I had ordered the wrong shifting arm for some reason and this put me back about a week to wait for the part. Anyways install the bush bearing for the shifting arm. It should just snap into place with a little force.

I didnt take any pictures here because UUC has great instructions that you should refer to. To be frank with you guys, I just really wanted to get around and drive my new manual. I was tired of taking pictures toward the end of the swap. Sorry!

But back to it...

Bolting up the DSSR or stock selector rod can be very aggravating because of the lack of space and how hard it is to get the DSSR into the selector. Make sure to grease the pins and secure the clips. And don't forget the yellow washers! They make everything tight!

I put the rubber boot on after I finished the SSK and before I put the shift knob on. You are supposed to put the rubber boot in before you put in the SSK but what the hell, it went in perfectly anyway.

To end my swap we all sat in my car and set the ZHP knob on the shifter. Then we all watched and I slammed the shift knob down onto the EVO3. I know its lame but whatever. We were tired and were just messing around.

Some more pictures:

UUC SS clutch line

The huge ass automatic. It went out fighting and spewed ATF everywhere. Damn it to hell

Box of old automatic parts (just pay for shipping, let me know if you need anything)

My workstation (I have an invisible shield on my Macbook so no worries, lol)

Figured I'd cover up my drivers seat. Good idea cuz the sheet was so greasy after the swap.

My cramped ass workspace when I was trying to set up the new pedal assembly. Trust me, there is NO room. I'm a small guy, if you are an old man... you are fvcked if you dont remove the drivers seat! I'm not kidding, that was the worst part of the swap. Trying to shape shift so I could reach up under the pedal assembly.

And I havent added the programming instructions just yet because I havent coded my car just yet. I will add them to the DIY when I do code the car.

And a little follow up on the whole swap. To be honest with you guys, It was very hard to do at all. If you can replace your clutch, then you can do this swap. You just need the right tools and the proper know-how. Honestly, the hardest part of the entire swap was securing the slave cylinder to the transmission, the nuts would NOT thread on. But they eventually did.

The UUC EVO3 has to be the absolute best SSK I've ever felt. The throws are so short and precise, I love it. I have been driving around the car for the past few days and I can honestly say, it like a whole new car again. It sounds different, it drives smoother, and its just more pleasurable to drive. Funny story though...

This is why you check the car before you start it for the first time. After I wired the clutch switch, we wanted to see if the car would start. Well it did first try, but there was this distinct metal *plinking* noise. Then there was a huge BANG and I thought I blew my motor up, ****!!! Well I found the problem

I forgot to take the 22mm socket off of the crank so it was spinning at 1000 RPM when I turned the car on. It flew off and hit my clutch fan blades and tore my fan shroud apart. Fun huh? Yeah, I got lucky. I just went up to the dealer and ordered a new clutch fan blade, set me back $40. not bad, they even had it in stock!

Next day, I look under my car and there is a huge trail of liquid, looks like coolant. ****! I spent an hour trying to figure out where it was coming from. Looking from under the car, the liquid was dripping from the frame rail, not good. I eventually traced it to my windshield washer fluid pump. Lame, it was only $20 at the dealer though. Fixed it and no more problems until today...

I got back from practicing driving manual (I'm pretty good now) and I park my car in the garage. I come out 15 min later and there is another huge trail of liquid coming from under my engine. Damn, my coolant expansion tank blew out. Its a good thing though, because it happened when my car was in my garage and after the car was turned off. Never overheated or anything. That's the original expansion tank (130k miles), I knew this day would come and I'm glad it didnt happen while I was driving.

I have to buy a new expansion tank on Monday but whatever, Its not a big deal. But you know what? After I put a manual in, all the things that were weak or hinting at going bad, did go bad. At least I'm taking care of them in one swing right?

Kinda some follow up pictures:

Close up of new pedal assembly, with my new footrest installed. (I'm getting new all season mats very soon)

Just an overall shot, you can get an idea of how short the EVO3 throw is

And my old brake pedal. It's probably the only part anyone here would want. Its in very good condition, like the rubber pad is brand new. Just pay for shipping! Hey, its better than me just throwing it away

Step 12: Coding

Alright, I'm adding this coding section an exact month from when I made this DIY, the coding went great but not without a lot of problems. Just read on...

I decided to do my coding the old school way (I'll explain that later) rather than the traditional way of coding where it runs a script and everything is automatic. I think in today's world, you HAVE to do the old school coding because not all of us have access to NCS expert and pass through tools. Well ok, lets get to the instructions. Before you start any coding, remove the 3 blue wires that connect to the automatic transmission computer. It's next to the DME in the engine compartment next to where you wired the clutch switch DME wire. You can see it in one of my pictures above. If you fail to disconnect these wires before you code you ASC/DSC module, your traction control light will still be on and you will still have a check engine light... ask me how I know....

First off, you will need to get access to a GT1 with Progman/SSS. Hook a battery charger up to your battery terminals in the hood and hook up the pass through (yellow head). In Progman, start a session and choose the vehicle as E34. This will start up the "old dis/zcs" coding program and then choose E46. This will allow you to modify the ZCS. You need to go into Option 3: or ZCS/FA coding when the menu pops up. Then choose the KOMBI as the first module to code. It will ask you if the VIN is correct and you say yes, then it will ask you if the ZCS values are correct? You answer NO. This will allow you to manually input your new SA code and it will program the instrument cluster in a matter of seconds. If the gear indicator light turns off, you know you have the correct SA code.

After you code the KOMBI, you need to go back into the ZCS/FA option and code these modules:

EWS: by coding it you will be able to start your car without any wiring bridge in the auto tranny wiring harness
ASC/DSC: by coding it you will be able to disconect the auto tranny module(egs) with out any error in the dash (traction light error)
GKE or ZKE: this will make the cruise control and clutch switch electronics to activate
Last and very important.. tell the tech to go to the "programming" option rather than the ZCS/FA option, and select program DME. Since now your new options will be for a manual car, the new programming will overwrite the engine management of the DME. Then it will ask you to align the EWS with the DME and clear all of the fault codes in the car. Turn off your ignition for about 30 seconds in between all of these when it asks you. After the fault codes are cleared and all of the coding is finished, cycle the ignition a couple of times to make sure all error lights are off.

Here's some pictures of my car right after the coding, no gear indicator, no error lights, SES light, nothing. Car thinks it's been a manual from the start. (yeah, you jealous of my 7400 miles? no tamper light or anything. suckers, haha)

Anyway, Good luck on the swap and if you have any questions, LET ME KNOW.

If you want me to take anymore pictures, just let me know. I dunno, just ask me anything

15,036 Posts

1,133 Posts
wow what an impressive thread! So nicely done!

15,036 Posts
Btw, the DIY links to bf.c are broken.

194 Posts
thanks for the lessons learned too. I will be sure not to leave my socket in the engine compartment that's for sure.

15,036 Posts

2,198 Posts
Interesting project, But it would be a huge pain in the ass for me. So thank god I bought a manual in the first place.
(By the way, why are the radio buttons white on the steering wheel? Are they worn out?)

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Interesting project, But it would be a huge pain in the ass for me. So thank god I bought a manual in the first place.
(By the way, why are the radio buttons white on the steering wheel? Are they worn out?)
Believe it or not, the swap was not that bad. And yes, the steering wheel buttons are just worn down to the white plastic underneath

1,881 Posts
Good job man!! It really doesn't look too bad if you have the parts and the space to do the job! Make sure you keep the pics up on a good provider for future usage...nothing more annoying than digging up a DIY and the author takes the pics down!!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good job man!! It really doesn't look too bad if you have the parts and the space to do the job! Make sure you keep the pics up on a good provider for future usage...nothing more annoying than digging up a DIY and the author takes the pics down!!
Thanks to everyone for the kind words! I upgraded my photobucket account to pro so the pictures should be good for a long time
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