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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
First of all thanks to Jared for this thread. I did the conversion on my wife's 325iT and the result was pretty good. Her words were: "It's like the car is happy now!" Indeed it is, and also quicker, with more positive feedback, and more fun to drive.

So some good things and what I learned:

Order your transmission first. I got my transmission, Drive shaft, and flywheel from Bavarian Auto Recycling delivered to Canada for less than a $1,000. I also ordered parts I didn't need like the shift pins as my transmission was an updated one post 2003 I guess. So I would have saved some $ if I had ordered the transmission first.

I ordered my parts from Pelican Parts, in retrospect I could have ordered a bunch of this from Bavarian and saved some $.

The clutch and SSK were from Turner. The SSK is the most expensive part but the shifting feel is excellent - notchy/precise, short and not too much effort!

Assembly was straight forward forward following the instructions contained here. The biggest mistake I made was not thoroughly prewiring the reverse lights. I have them wired but not connected to the transmission. I do not have the connector that plugs into the transmission and have not yet been able to source one. Trying to wire it when the transmission is in is difficult

What issues to I have?

1) PDC (Park Distance control) is not yet operative but I do not think this will be an issue. I have the reverse signal figured out once I get the connector. PDC should just require review of the wiring diagrams to find out where the signal is supposed to go.

2) Cruise works but the clutch does not disengage the cruise. It is wired but the car is not yet coded (more on that below)

3) After turning off the car it takes about 30 seconds for it to reset and respond to it being turned on. In other words if you stall you can't just crank it, you need to wait first. This is a safety issue, and one I expected to be corrected when recoded.

4) The big issue is that the Dealer, actually BMW Canada refused to recode the car. I had checked with the dealer prior to doing the conversion, and although they hadn't done this they felt they could reload the program. So even though they quoted $650, I took it in to have it done. Part of the cost was the Tech wanted to check my wiring first. So he did that, confirmed it was correct, sent the "PUMA" request to BMW for recompiled coding and was told that "due to potential Federal compliance and safety issues" they would not provide a recompiled program as it did not have a correct wiring harness. Oops - still cost me $135 for the "diagnosis".

The recoding is not essential, but I would like to get it done. There is an independent that the parts guys at the dealership recommended, but I haven't made contact yet. My normal mechanic has suggested some "reprogramming sources" where I send them my DME or ECU or whatever is necessary. More investigation is needed.

So I have added this post to give thanks to the previous posters for their guidance and add my small bit to the knowledge base. The conversion was initiated because of a faulty Automatic transmission that was increasingly putting the car into limp mode, and a desire to put a tow bar on the car. (I installed a Witter yesterday). This is effectively our utility vehicle and we expect to keep it a long time. With the manual and with the tow bar it meant we didn't need to look at a new or newer SUV or pickup. I am probably a little underwater on the car value wise, but the best solution for that is use.

Would I do this again? Absolutely. The car is now a joy to drive, and feels much stronger.
Too bad you are closer or else I could do the coding work for you. Good to hear everything wnt smoothly for you.

Jared
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
On another note to anyone that might want this conversion done. I can do it for you for a very reasonable price including all the coding that needs to be done. I have done this for 2 other fanatics on this boards cars already and both worked out well. Just let me know if interested.

Thanks Jared
 

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Just ordered the 5 speed tranny, driveline, and flywheel from bmrparts.com. They are a BMW dismantler in CA. The tranny was 375, the driveline (rebuilt with new center bearing and balanced) was 199, and the flywheel was 199. I also bought a warranty on the tranny for 131 that covers lifetime parts and 2 years labor. I have a few questions for you guys.

1. When I checked the part numbers on realoem.com it said I needed the same tranny Neil used the s5d 320z. bmrparts said I need a s5d 310z. The guy said the 320z was for 330i and 310z is for the 328i. I have a 02/1999 328i. So I ordered the 310z that he said was what I needed even though it conflicts with realoem.com. This makes me a little nervous and was curious what you guys thought.

2. The cheapest new flywheel I could find anywhere was 499 for a Luk flywheel. bmrparts.com which is where I bought the tranny from had a used flywheel for 199 so I ordered the flywheel too. He said it is inspected and no hot spots or anything and that flywheels rarely go out. I just wanted your thoughts on this and should I have spent the extra 300 for a new one or should the used one be ok?

Thank you guys for your help. I am getting really excited about this project!
 

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resurrecting from the dead

I have brought another post here back to life on the topic of the swap...

...Mr. Jared's tips on the wiring here are helpful and I am looking to get started on the wiring this weekend. From my other post here:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=855303&page=6

have a '03 325it auto going to a manual and I'm pretty deep into a long saga...not sure anyone is still doing this kind of work but I learned a few things that were not entirely clear in this tread.

A 325 has a different transmission than what is in a 330
A 325 has a smaller diameter clutch than a 330
A 325 has a different driveshaft from a 330
a 325 has a different differential from a 330
a 325 has different half-shafts at the rear than a 330
a 325 ~may have a different sized GUIBO than the 330

I started with the driveshaft and discovered the different interface for the differential...pulled the differential and learned the half shafts are different as well. Was told to take the entire rear subframe and move it over, but I didn't want to deal with suspension geometry issues.

I ended up with a e36 MT driveshaft, but then discovered that the output flange on the 330 MT was different. Added a smaller output flange and matching smaller GUIBO only to discover the nuts that log the output flange to the differential don't match up either. Made a custom M24 (?) nut that takes a 30mm socket size which would fit into the output flange and onto the output shaft of the 330 MT.

After all of this I discovered that the center support bearing was too far aft to mate with the CSB studs on the car...had to make a custom bracket to hold the CSB and mount to the car.

I'm all connected, mechanically speaking, and getting into the wiring and computer programming.

...this turned out to be a very long road. Its been about 5 weeks on the jack stands at this point!
 

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You should have checked other diy’s before starting and always check the specific product catalog for your make. In that case you wouldn’t have had such problems... now you’ve been there, done that and you know it for the future :)


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