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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just've done it. Easy enough, everything is doable from the engine compartment, no need to remove dash or do anything from cabin at all. First, discharge the system at nearest shop, don't discharge it into air, please.
Remove cabin filter carrier and so called 'heater bulkhead' (the piece of trim in between the engine and the firewall). So, you'll see this:



Remove the bolt that holds low pressure port.
Detach two bolts which attach two pipes to round double pipe port:



Now you need to close the flap that hides the valve. In TIS they recommend to pull the lock up and feed the flap out. I tried but the lock didn't want to be pulled up and I didn't want to break anything. So, I just turned ignition key on and on A/C unit in cabin I selected 'recirculation' mode: this caused flap to close.

Detach the double pipe assembly:







You may remove the center stud from the valve by using E6 external torx socket for convenience.
Now need to remove the two bolts which are holding the valve in place. For some reasons people drill them out (I read it in several DIYs). No need to drill out at all, just use 3mm hex bit socket and unscrew them:




Basically, this is all about removal. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to replace all the O-rings by the new ones.

It is a good idea to replace the dryer as well (at least I will, along with a condenser).

After assembling everything, go to the shop to evacuate and re-charge system. I'll do it myself with a vacuum pump and gauges later, but this is out of scope of this DIY.
 

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Excellent DIY... You may also want to replace the schrader valves before you fill too... (High and Low pressure sides) That's where you get A LOT of leaks eventually! Cheap insurance and it doesn't get any easier for a DIY... Since you have the system evacuated anyway! They are about .25 cents each... At the most!
 

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Nice write up.... I may need to do this before summer starts here.

Did you do a DIY for the condenser and dryer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Condenser and dryer are easy to replace. For condenser you must remove the radiator first and then it will become obvious how to replace it. For dryer - remove the front right wheel and the fender liner to access to the dryer's bracket and unbolt it. But before this detach two hoses from the top of the dryer. As simple as this.
 

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Condenser and dryer are easy to replace. For condenser you must remove the radiator first and then it will become obvious how to replace it. For dryer - remove the front right wheel and the fender liner to access to the dryer's bracket and unbolt it. But before this detach two hoses from the top of the dryer. As simple as this.
BTW for those who would prefer to not touch the engine cooling system, you can replace the condenser by removing the front end: bumper, radiator support, headlights. Might be more work, but i just got finished flushing my cooling system and I preferred not to touch it again for a while.
 

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That sucks. Try just getting the ac hoses off, remove the double pipe, and then take to the bench. Broken bolt should come out with penetrating oil and vise grips. If not, good news is you can replace double pipe for ~$25 from ebay. And, yes all of my hex bolts looked like they had been bathed in lock-tight (but maybe corrosion). Had to hammer the hex socket onto every bolt before removing -- they strip easy. Then ended up buying twelve replacement bolts from dealer. They're only like $1.10 each. Does look like they've changed the steel in these bolts. GL
I was just able to get the A/C hose off after spraying the bolt with some PB blaster. Yup, now i am taking the double pipe to the bench. Ordered two new bolts, should get them mid june. Thanks for the help
 

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Just've done it. Easy enough, everything is doable from the engine compartment, no need to remove dash or do anything from cabin at all. First, discharge the system at nearest shop, don't discharge it into air, please.
Remove cabin filter carrier and so called 'heater bulkhead' (the piece of trim in between the engine and the firewall). So, you'll see this:



Remove the bolt that holds low pressure port.
Detach two bolts which attach two pipes to round double pipe port:



Now you need to close the flap that hides the valve. In TIS they recommend to pull the lock up and feed the flap out. I tried but the lock didn't want to be pulled up and I didn't want to break anything. So, I just turned ignition key on and on A/C unit in cabin I selected 'recirculation' mode: this caused flap to close.

Detach the double pipe assembly:







You may remove the center stud from the valve by using E6 external torx socket for convenience.
Now need to remove the two bolts which are holding the valve in place. For some reasons people drill them out (I read it in several DIYs). No need to drill out at all, just use 3mm hex bit socket and unscrew them:




Basically, this is all about removal. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to replace all the O-rings by the new ones.

It is a good idea to replace the dryer as well (at least I will, along with a condenser).

After assembling everything, go to the shop to evacuate and re-charge system. I'll do it myself with a vacuum pump and gauges later, but this is out of scope of this DIY.
first of all thanks for so much explanation. sorry for the writing, I am Spanish and I use the google translator.
I am changing the compressor of my 330d and I am changing the expansion valve and removing it loosens the evaporator tubes. the problem is that I notice it very loose, they move a lot. that's normal?
I also wanted to ask you if you could tell me where to buy the oring kit for the pipes, I bought an assortment in amazon but they are not worth it. Besides, I also wanted to ask you how and with what you washed the pipes inside.
Thanks
 

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I recommend that you buy the o-rings from your local dealer. That way you’re are sure that they won’t fail. Also, I recommend that you change the dryer, also.
 

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I recommend that you buy the o-rings from your local dealer. That way you’re are sure that they won’t fail. Also, I recommend that you change the dryer, also.
Thanks, I already asked, I'm waiting for you to tell me if there is and how much it is worth. What about the evaporator tubes when you remove the expansion valve and they get loose and move is normal?
 
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