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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked all over the place for someone who had actually put 6.5's in the back, since it seemed that everyone was saying just get 5.25's and make it easy on yourself. Since I'm not dropping any money on subs yet, all my lows are going to be coming from the four 6.5's I'm putting in, and making sure they're mounted well is key in making sure I get the most out of them. I could have removed the rear deck completely to try and find a solid mounting point, but this method was quick, effective, and easy.

INSTALL:

The actual stock speakers in the back of my non-HK sedan are 160mm (~6.25) rather than a more standard 6.5". How much work would it actually take to squeeze in a bit larger speaker….

For this install I used the woofers from an Infinity Kappa 60.9cs component system. If replacing the rear fills was all I was going to do, these speakers would be a great choice as well, since they’re 2-ohm rated and do a nice job with the factory amp.

The max depth on these speakers was 2.5”. If the magnet had been nearer to the size of the stock speakers, I could have squeezed in up to 3” worth of speaker depth. The size of the Kappa’s magnets made 2.5” the deepest I could fit with this mounting solution.

Take a look at the pics and if you’re confused, try reading the following:

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove Stock Speakers

Carefully pry the grills up, starting from one side and moving around. Don’t rush this, especially if your car is older (mine’s a 2000 and the clips are old so a couple broke on me). You’ll also need to grab yourself a socket wrench to take out and later tighten the factory bots. The speaker connection clip is fairly straightforward, just pinch and pull. For this install, you’ll also be removing the liner that is set into the speaker openings. I didn’t try putting them back in, though if your new speaker is small enough, you might be able to re-use them.

2. Make Your Horseshoe Brackets

Using the grills you just removed, trace one of them on a sheet of at least 3/8” thick wood. I used 1/2” hardwood plywood for mine. From here, you’ll want to use the mounting brackets that came with your speakers to make an inner circle that is concentric with the arc of the rounded portion of the grill cover. Finalize your pattern with an opening on the flat side of the outline which will allow us to insert the bracket under the rear deck without removing it. I had flanges left on mine to give more surface area to the speaker’s mounting face, but just cutting the opening about 3.5” wide would be fine. Using a jigsaw or whatever you have handy, try cutting them out, making sure to go outside both series of lines (the grill outline can be expanded to ensure your wood doesn’t split, and the inner circle should be expanded slightly to make sure the speaker sits down completely in the opening.) I used a combo jigsaw/scroll saw and didn’t really cut very meticulously, hence the jagged look to mine, but no one is going to see them and they work well.

3. Mark the Screw Holes

After you’ve got the wood cut, go to your car and slide one horseshoe leg at a time under the rear deck, rotating it to get it to slide under. You’ll need a pencil to mark the holes where you’re going to pre-drill for the original bolts to screw into the mount. Pre-drill your holes and then make some holes for the speaker to screw in to. Finalize the bracket by applying some dampening material (I used Dynamat Extreme). You’ll need to go back and drill or puncture through the dampening material.

4. Mount the Brackets

Using the same technique of twisting and maneuvering that you just used to mark the bracket, re-install it and if you did an accurate job of marking where your holes were, you should be able to screw it in with a socket wrench. Be sure that you hold the mount flush with the rear deck as you screw it in, otherwise the screw will reach its maximum depth against the metal bracket of the rear deck, and be unable to bring the mount flush to the rear deck. Not keeping the bracket flush will limit your mounting depth and possibly hurt your overall sound quality.

5. Install the Speakers!

Now that the bracket is in place, simply attach the speaker wire (the brown is the negative connection in both rear left and right.) Once you have it connected, set it in, line up your holes and before you awkwardly try to slowly tighten down the four screws, make sure you’re getting sound out of them and that they’re connected properly. Once you’ve got them firmly seated in the brackets, pop the grill covers back on and enjoy your new and improved rear fill.


OTHER THOUGHTS:

You might want to put down some Dynamat below the speaker in the max depth limiting area, to ensure you don’t get any vibrations off of the stock liner that’s there. I have a miniscule amount of clearance between the speaker magnet and the metal, and if I were to do it again, I would probably aim to get a speaker that was 2 3/8” deep or less.

My speakers fit well in the back, and that might not be the case for whatever brand of speakers your buy. So while this worked well for my 6.5" speakers, yours might be a tighter fit and trimming some of the rear deck material might be necessary.

Knock the rear fill as much as you want, but I can tell a BIG difference from the stock rear speakers to the new ones.

After deciding on this as the final solution, I was able to get the whole thing done in less than an hour easily.

I’m by no means a professional, so feel free to improve on the design.

Thanks for reading!

PICS:
 

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Good write up.
I put a pair of 6-1/2" Polk Mobile Monitors on the rear deck. I had to Dremel the frames to fit. I can't get the stock grills to fit properly, the spkrs are just a little to high for that. The Polk grills are too obvious, but then, having the speakers there with nothing is just as obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Rickna.

BMW didn't want to make it easy on us.... I had tried using the original mounting equipment to get my speakers in at first too, but since I ran into the same problem you're having, I re-thought the whole thing and used some plywood I had handy. If you've got the time, wood, and the tools, you could fashion yourself a set of these and get those grills back on pretty easy--as long as your speakers aren't too deep.
 

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Thanks Rickna.

BMW didn't want to make it easy on us.... I had tried using the original mounting equipment to get my speakers in at first too, but since I ran into the same problem you're having, I re-thought the whole thing and used some plywood I had handy. If you've got the time, wood, and the tools, you could fashion yourself a set of these and get those grills back on pretty easy--as long as your speakers aren't too deep.
Glad to be of help.
That's the problem they're about 3/16" too deep. Oh well I'm keeping them anyway.
 

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Great DIY - no doubt it sounds much better than stock!

Quick question re connecting the wiring. How did you connect the Infinity speakers to the original cable / connector?
 

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Thanks for the great DIY. Does anybody sell speaker adapter brackets for the rear? Crutchfield has one for the fronts, could they be the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Great DIY - no doubt it sounds much better than stock!

Quick question re connecting the wiring. How did you connect the Infinity speakers to the original cable / connector?
A lot of members have mentioned that having aftermarket speakers in the back is a waste, but I can't imagine the rear fill is so neglected that you couldn't tell a difference.

Those Infinity Kappa's came with a wiring module that was independent of the speaker, so the black cable you see coming off the speaker in one of the pics leads to that adapter, and the stock cables were cut, stripped, and screwed into place. You'll have to cut the original adapter, use a splice, or insert some pins to make it work. See attached pic of the adapter being removed. (For the rears, the brown wire is the negative)


Thanks for the great DIY. Does anybody sell speaker adapter brackets for the rear? Crutchfield has one for the fronts, could they be the same?
I'm not sure what adapter your referring to off of Crutchfield, but from what I've seen, the speakers are identical in the front and back--the question is if the mounting holes line up the same. Post the link and I'll take look.
 

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I was able to mount pretty deep 6.5 speakers by actually mounting my speaker directly to the stock "enclosure" that sits down in there. Didn't seem like it would work, but it did, pretty much perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Here is the link for the adapter bracket. Do you think they would fit the rears as well? Thanks. http://www.crutchfield.com/g_103200/Speaker-Adapter-Brackets.html?tp=2824
those brackets look pretty much dead on for the back speakers too, you could take a close look at the pic I posted above of the factory speaker compared to my Kappa's and see what you think. you could always return it if it didn't work out....

EDIT: I just dropped the Crutchfield image over my pic of the rear speakers in Photoshop, and I'm about 99% sure you won't have any fitment issues.

I was able to mount pretty deep 6.5 speakers by actually mounting my speaker directly to the stock "enclosure" that sits down in there. Didn't seem like it would work, but it did, pretty much perfectly.
interesting idea, I didn't even consider that. those inserts are pretty sturdy, but were you able to get them to stay locked in place after putting in your speakers? you did use 6.5's for that install, right?
 

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those brackets look pretty much dead on for the back speakers too, you could take a close look at the pic I posted above of the factory speaker compared to my Kappa's and see what you think. you could always return it if it didn't work out....

EDIT: I just dropped the Crutchfield image over my pic of the rear speakers in Photoshop, and I'm about 99% sure you won't have any fitment issues.



interesting idea, I didn't even consider that. those inserts are pretty sturdy, but were you able to get them to stay locked in place after putting in your speakers? you did use 6.5's for that install, right?
Yes, I used Kenwood Excelon 6.5 inch speakers. The insert have a little half circle shaped imprint down in the rear deck metal that they fall down into. The insert is keyed to fit into this perfectly when dropped in correctly. Because the final result was that the factory grill fits perfectly just over the top of the coax tweeter, the speakers dont' move around at all. I road tested it quite a bit with all sound off to see if there was any vibrations or rattles from the mounts and there was zero (i am obsessive about rattles and can't stand even the smallest one). There also was no noise from the speakers or when the sub fires at all, so the mount seems to be extremely stable. The other plus side is the small "sealed" enclosure seems to really give the speakers accurate, tight bass. Basically I just took the enclosures out of the car, centered the speaker as best I could so that the speaker sat down into the enclosure but the speaker's "ring" was sitting so the bottom side was on the rim. Then I put a bead of hot glue all the way around the point where it meets the rim. After 5 minutes, I checked them for strength and I can pick up the mount upside down and the speaker does not fall out.
 

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I need to do this...the audio shop that installed mine did some weird sh!t back there...:eek: they hanged the speaker from the rear deck somehow. but the good thing about it is that it lets the bass through from the trunk...i'll take a pic tomorrow
 

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I am thinking about putting these in the back of my 323i. the back right woofer has a rattle whenever anything remotly bass like plays. Based on your measurements these babys would fit perfectly without horshoes.
http://www.frys.com/product/5240727

they are about 2" deep. and are listed as 6.5" but in reality they are smaller. sizes listed in mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
mvrk10256, looks like they'd work out alright, but since they are listed as 6.5" and not as a legitimate 126mm actual size, they're probably not going to fit the way you're thinking.

the original factory brackets are too small of diameter, and the mounting points extend a bit beyond the normal mounting holes of a 6.5" speaker. i would highly recommend doing what i did--which gives the most reliable solid mounting solution besides mounting to the metal of the rear deck, or doing what BmwAudio32 did with his install.

if you're going to go through the trouble of mounting speakers in your rear deck at all, it would probably be worth your money to drop more than $50 on the pair. and btw, the rear deck speakers are woofers only, so the wiring back there will only be putting out the lows, making your two-way speaker's tweeter rather worthless. you also need to be aware of the fact that the amplifier is expecting to pass it's current through a 2-ohm speaker, rather than the 4-ohm speaker you have picked out. the infinity kappa component speakers i used were 2-ohm, and while i'm upgrading my amp too, those would be a good choice for what you have in mind--unless you're ripping apart your whole system like i am...

good luck!
 
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