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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My previous rear mounting can be seen here. At the time I didn't even know how to remove the rear deck trim. I can't drop all my speakers in to the new baby until I have more time. For now, my 2-ohm Infinity Kappa 60.9cs woofers run nicely on the stock amp.


1. Take advantage of the very solid sheet metal of the rear deck.
2. Use a material that would hold up against the heaviest vibrations.
3. Isolate underside of speaker to avoid any sound cancellation.

2x 6" PVC Caps ($10)
2x L-brackets, four packs ($6)
6x 4mm machine screws (~$2)

cordless drill
misc drill bits
4mm tap
socket set
needle-nosed pliers
standard pliers
phillips screwdriver
Sharpie marker


1. Remove entire rear trim, headrests, C-pillars, etc. Use the attached PDF of the OEM electric sun blind retrofit guide if you get stuck.
2. Pull back rear deck insulation to expose the black-rubber-lined rear deck metal.
3. Find center of PVC caps, dremel away a slightly larger than 5" diameter circle--depends in your speaker, check your specs.
4. Ensure speaker fits and mark and pre-drill mounting holes.
5. Cut away approximately half PVC caps' height.
6. Remove a portion of the PVC caps to let them lay level. Takes a while...
7. Find the three areas you can put the L-brackets, mark the PVC, and attach.
8. Set PVC cap back in and mark rear deck metal for drilling.
9. Drill into rear deck metal and tap screw holes with 4mm tap.
10. Attach speaker to mount, attach existing wiring to speaker, attach mount to rear deck. Do it for the other side too.
11. Remove enough rear deck insulation to let it lay back down on the deck.
12. Check speakers connection and listen for rattles at high volume.
13. Put it back together the way you pull it apart (after testing speakers and checking for rattles first.
14. Enjoy your sweet rear-deck woofers and grab a cold one.


- PVC of this size is super-thick, get a 5" hole saw and a grinder with a cutoff wheel if possible.

- I had Dynamat, but chose not to use it, the speaker mounts weren't vibrating, the rear deck rubber lining worked to dampen vibrations, and the speaker to PVC cap screws held it super-strong. Use it at your discretion.

- This method is not easy, if you're looking for a quick install, try my other method or buy an adapter ring.

- My speakers put out tons of bass by using this method. Not an ounce of power was lost in dissipated vibrations to the rear deck as they had been before. I believe that they were audibly making more bass in the cabin over the H/K 'subs' in the trunk.

- I'm tempted to possibly apply this method to the front doors since my old MDF rings started expanding due to moisture (didn't seal them up). I'll look in to it come this winter.

Feel free to post some comments and give me feedback.


437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

glad you're going to give it a try.

i'm skeptical you could get the PVC caps through the rear deck openings and be able to cut away some of the insulation material. it was annoying to remove the rear deck, but ultimately a lot easer to get the brackets installed. i never had my own amp installed with this set up so i wasn't able to power them with anything but the stock HK amp. i do believe that it's a much better solution since when i did the brackets beforehand, i was getting very visible movement in the back, outside of the speaker itself, and with the new installation there was absolutely no movement. in my mind it was successful.
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