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About to Install a New DISA And was curious with how the OG O-Ring is, once I install it, am I able to Remove And re install again for inspection or other repairs are needed that involve its removal? Only because I've seen on some sites that it's a one and done deal once install, can't be installed again because of the material the O-Ring is made of.

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About to Install a New DISA And was curious with how the OG O-Ring is, once I install it, am I able to Remove And re install again for inspection or other repairs are needed that involve its removal? Only because I've seen on some sites that it's a one and done deal once install, can't be installed again because of the material the O-Ring is made of.
Scrape it off and get an actual o-ring. That***8217;s what most of us have done. Just do a good job removing the old.
 

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Scrape it off and get an actual o-ring. That***8217;s what most of us have done. Just do a good job removing the old.
Would it come off alot easier being a brand new DISA? I do have a Viton O-Ring that fits the 2.5 DiSA laying around.

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Dental picks work great for getting out the old O ring. Clean out as much as you can, the cleaner the better, carefully so as not to damage the plastic surface. Replacement O ring is fairly cheap. Advance auto parts (part # 35489) same as water outlet O ring for a 91-94 Ford Probe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dental picks work great for getting out the old O ring. Clean out as much as you can, the cleaner the better, carefully so as not to damage the plastic surface. Replacement O ring is fairly cheap. Advance auto parts (part # 35489) same as water outlet O ring for a 91-94 Ford Probe.
Newbimer it's a brand new DISA, I have an extra viton O-Ring from a kit I used in a previous DISA , was seeing if it be easier to pull off

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Dental picks work great for getting out the old O ring. Clean out as much as you can, the cleaner the better, carefully so as not to damage the plastic surface. Replacement O ring is fairly cheap. Advance auto parts (part # 35489) same as water outlet O ring for a 91-94 Ford Probe.
Avoid using picks that are too sharp because you don't want to damage the plastic housing. The cheap small pick set at Harbor Freight is all you really need, or even a small screwdriver if carefull. The original is like a hard silicone rtv, you might need something sharp initially to cut into it to make a start, but once you get an opening a duller tool is safer.

Fwiw, check out German Auto Solutions for a quality DISA o-rings sized correctly for a 325i.
https://germanautosolutions.com/store/bmw-m54-disa-housing-o-ring/

Newbimer, did that Ford water pump oring work? I've read both positive and negatives about that approach.
 

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Newbimer it's a brand new DISA, I have an extra viton O-Ring from a kit I used in a previous DISA , was seeing if it be easier to pull off

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If it's a new disa, then just use it as is. You don't want it easy to pull off or put on, that's a sign of a bad seal. The resistance means its sealing well. Keep the extra o ring in case the new one develops a leak from being removed and installed again, but I doubt that would happen anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If it's a new disa, then just use it as is. You don't want it easy to pull off or put on, that's a sign of a bad seal. The resistance means its sealing well. Keep the extra o ring in case the new one develops a leak from being removed and installed again, but I doubt that would happen anytime soon.
So in theory your saying I'd be safe to install it and remove for future work ie: lower intake boot, ICV etc. If need be say in he next few months or so, just know everything is fragile in this area

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Avoid using picks that are too sharp because you don't want to damage the plastic housing. The cheap small pick set at Harbor Freight is all you really need, or even a small screwdriver if carefull. The original is like a hard silicone rtv, you might need something sharp initially to cut into it to make a start, but once you get an opening a duller tool is safer.

Fwiw, check out German Auto Solutions for a quality DISA o-rings sized correctly for a 325i.
https://germanautosolutions.com/store/bmw-m54-disa-housing-o-ring/

Newbimer, did that Ford water pump oring work? I've read both positive and negatives about that approach.
I have a Viton O-Ring, just everything on this car is 16yo, and never did this or lower intake boot and both look so intimating and one of those scenarios that if I'm off on something when I replace there goes my mode of transportation I'm really nervous about the pin that holds the flap

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I have a Viton O-Ring, just everything on this car is 16yo, and never did this or lower intake boot and both look so intimating and one of those scenarios that if I'm off on something when I replace there goes my mode of transportation I'm really nervous about the pin that holds the flap

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But you said the disa is brand new though, right? I think having the viton oring on hand is a good back up for the seal going bad if you remove it too many times, but the flapper pin should be good for years on a brand new disa. It's the original 16 year old disa's that lose the flapper pin.
 

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But you said the disa is brand new though, right? I think having the viton oring on hand is a good back up for the seal going bad if you remove it too many times, but the flapper pin should be good for years on a brand new disa. It's the original 16 year old disa's that lose the flapper pin.
Yeah that's the one I'm nervous about..

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So in theory your saying I'd be safe to install it and remove for future work ie: lower intake boot, ICV etc. If need be say in he next few months or so, just know everything is fragile in this area

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Ahh, just saw this. I would think that a brand new DISA seal can withstand a few installs and removals, but I don't have any experience with that either. I think they fail because of compression over a long time (many years), not because of install and removal. Use a bit of silicone paste as lube on the install to protect the seal from tearing when going in and it should be fine.

I guess what I'm saying is I wouldn't preemptively change a brand new disa seal just because I plan to remove it in the future and it might fail then. I personally would try it because its brand new and see how it holds up after removal, and then if needed use the viton oring since you have it already. Half laziness, half save the replacement till you really need it and half if its brand new dont fix it rationale.
 

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Ahh, just saw this. I would think that a brand new DISA seal can withstand a few installs and removals, but I don't have any experience with that either. I think they fail because of compression over a long time (many years), not because of install and removal. Use a bit of silicone paste as lube on the install to protect the seal from tearing when going in and it should be fine.



I guess what I'm saying is I wouldn't preemptively change a brand new disa seal just because I plan to remove it in the future and it might fail then. I personally would try it and see how it holds up, and then if needed use the viton oring since you have it already.
Yeah my issue is i noticed It was noisey last spring, and the last few week under 28°F I'd get a pending code of P0174 on my ultra gauge, and the other day it was 56 out so I thought I'd be nice and open up the throttle abit to blow some carbon out. Ever since at red lights etc it has a slight shutter/hesitant but normal rpms of 650-760 as I normally see it monitor at. But I'll get the pending code again and then takes a day or 2 but will pull the P0174/71 codes. So wanna swap this to rule it out if anything at least that anxiety of the Disa grenading my motor will be gone, jus will be a pain with how cold it is and no garage to tear into the lower boot ugh...

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Yeah my issue is i noticed It was noisey last spring, and the last few week under 28°F I'd get a pending code of P0174 on my ultra gauge, and the other day it was 56 out so I thought I'd be nice and open up the throttle abit to blow some carbon out. Ever since at red lights etc it has a slight shutter/hesitant but normal rpms of 650-760 as I normally see it monitor at. But I'll get the pending code again and then takes a day or 2 but will pull the P0174/71 codes. So wanna swap this to rule it out if anything at least that anxiety of the Disa grenading my motor will be gone, jus will be a pain with how cold it is and no garage to tear into the lower boot ugh...

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Lol ... so you did an Italian tune up? Not sure that that's directly related to your lean codes, so don't feel bad about that. If the disa is noisey (rattling) then definitely either replace or fix with German Auto Solution flapper kit ... you had a thread about this recently I think and you already had ordered the new disa before someone mentioned the flapper kit.

So definitely put the new disa in to fix the rattle, Im just saying there's is no pressing need to replace a brand new disa seal unless you want to.

On the lower boot, are the ring gear clamps facing downward? If so, the boot has never been off and its a pain to undo. Easiest access is from below with an 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket on an extension and maybe u-joint wobbly bit as well ... if I remember correctly. Make sure to face the clamps upwards on reinstall to avoid the problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Lol ... so you did an Italian tune up? Not sure that that's directly related to your lean codes, so don't feel bad about that. If the disa is noisey (rattling) then definitely either replace or fix with German Auto Solution flapper kit ... you had a thread about this recently I think and you already had ordered the new disa before someone mentioned the flapper kit.



So definitely put the new disa in to fix the rattle, Im just saying there's is no pressing need to replace a brand new disa seal unless you want to.



On the lower boot, are the ring gear clamps facing downward? If so, the boot has never been off and its a pain to undo. Easiest access is from below with an 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket on an extension and maybe u-joint wobbly bit as well ... if I remember correctly. Make sure to face the clamps upwards on reinstall to avoid the problem again.
I do know about the flapper kit, tho I don't plan on having this car as my daily much longer with the longer drive I have, tho not getting another vehicle till end of year either, shes approaching 160k so this is the time everything else like to go that hasn't, not that I can't rebuild i just don't have the time with this being the only vehicle i have at the moment.

And yeah more so I don't drive it hard in the winter since we get alot of ice here.

I have to check about the washers being upside down I did the upper boot 2years ago and it was bad so I'm sure the lower one has never been done, its survived 160k with alot of its factory parts.

Was crossing my fingers she would start PMSing when it started to warm up


And is it 8mm? All videos I've seen say a 6mm


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I haven’t read the entire thread but here’s my observation: the original orange o ring will definitely flatten over time. The GAS o ring will not.

How do I know? I had a GAS blue fluoro-silicone installed for a few years. When I removed the DISA the GAS o ring was just as springy as when new.


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