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Simple solution is to either change your oil and filter, put back 7 qts and then verify dipstick is reading correctly.

Other option it so drain oil into a clean pan, see if you have at least 6 qts and put it back in the engine, and see where the oil level shows up.

Just because the CCV was recently replaced does not mean this may not be an issue?

Check the 3rd link below in my signature for info on coolant temp and dipstick tube issues.

Also there have been reports that replacement dipsticks and/or tubes without the complete matched dipstick and tube can cause oil level measurement issues.
 

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Just buy some of the newer model cars that have no engine oil dipstick at all!

You have to rely on the oil level sensor 100%.
 

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Do not forget, 7 quarts of oil will expand quite a bit once up to operating temperature.

As long as YOU know where the cold level should be from checking there should be no issue checking the engine oil cold.
 

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He's suggesting that if you check the oil while it is cold, the level will be low and one might put in more oil that will be too much when it is hot.

I'm 60, and I worked in a gas station when I was 15, and my father was a Used Car dealership while I was growing up, and in my years of driving and owning cars, I have never seen oil go from low when cold to proper when warm, or from proper when cold to over filled when warm. My data set, small as it is, makes me want to call Bullshit and see who has the better cards.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cubical-expansion-coefficients-d_1262.html

Last time I checked almost all matter expands when warmed up. Basic physics and thermal properties.

Engine oil runs at about 10-20F warmer than engine coolant under most situations as I recall. Also keep in mind it takes 2-4 times longer for the engine oil to come up to operating temperature than the engine coolant.

If the oil does not expand, why do the car manufactures suggest you check the engine oil warm in the first place? This is also why there is likely a fill range on the dipstick.

Same goes for automatic transmissions, always check warm or hot depending on the checking method, and also look at any power steering reservoir, there are cold and warm fill marks.

One reason many car manufactures choose warm level check is you can control the warm temperature far easier than the "cold" temperature. Cold could be 80F or it could be -20F.

My point is anyone can determine the baseline cold levels on their own car as long as they properly check and fill when warm, then let the engine/car cool off they check at a consistent temperature and determine where the baseline for the cold oil level. This will be just a accurate as warm checking.

As they say, it is all relative.
 

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WDE46, time for oil expansion science!
 
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