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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...7.m32&_trkparms=tab=Watching#ebayphotohosting

Is that an OEM part? The tag looks OEM.




Getting fed up with the alternator noise from my DICE Silverline, which is slaved off my OEM Sirius unit.

To review:

- DICE connected to CD changer input directly = no feedback
- OEM Sirius connected directly to CD changer input = no feedback
- DICE slaved off OEM Sirius unit = feedback / alternator whining noise


The only thing different about that setup is the cable, which is some custom cable that came with the DICE unit.
 

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Hey man, I actually noticed this same phenomenon, and managed to work around it. Essentially I bypassed the whole SIRIUS expansion altogether. What I did was cut the ends off of the "slave cable" and then spliced them into the appropriate wires running to the factory 6 and 3 pin connectors. Essentially I ended up with a y-cable type splitter, with 2 3 pin and 2 6 pin connectors coming from the same wires. This worked perfectly however I ended up having to do one additional step to eliminate all noise and keep factory sirius + dice. The final step was to rig up a power switch in my center console to cut power to the sirius on/off, because this eliminates all noise when I want to use the DICE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey man, I actually noticed this same phenomenon, and managed to work around it. Essentially I bypassed the whole SIRIUS expansion altogether. What I did was cut the ends off of the "slave cable" and then spliced them into the appropriate wires running to the factory 6 and 3 pin connectors. Essentially I ended up with a y-cable type splitter, with 2 3 pin and 2 6 pin connectors coming from the same wires. This worked perfectly however I ended up having to do one additional step to eliminate all noise and keep factory sirius + dice. The final step was to rig up a power switch in my center console to cut power to the sirius on/off, because this eliminates all noise when I want to use the DICE.

Interesting... What generation Sirius unit do you have? Mine is second generation...

I may try your method. Although if this is an OEM part, I may pick one up to give it a try.
 

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The real problem, is what is next to that extension cable. It is picking up the engine noise from something near it. You would need to shield it or move it away from the source of the noise. I don't think it has anything to do with OEM or not (although OEM does tend to be better quality than most of the knockoffs), I had the same whine with my OEM cable, and by moving it away from the noise source cleared the whine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The real problem, is what is next to that extension cable. It is picking up the engine noise from something near it. You would need to shield it or move it away from the source of the noise. I don't think it has anything to do with OEM or not (although OEM does tend to be better quality than most of the knockoffs), I had the same whine with my OEM cable, and by moving it away from the noise source cleared the whine.
I wrapped mine in a terry towel and through it in the middle of the trunk and drove around... Still go noise... That culprit or the internals of the Sirius unit is to blame.

I'm trying to dig up a 3rd generation Sirius unit to see if that makes a difference...
 

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I wrapped mine in a terry towel and through it in the middle of the trunk and drove around... Still go noise... That culprit or the internals of the Sirius unit is to blame.

I'm trying to dig up a 3rd generation Sirius unit to see if that makes a difference...
Mine is a 3rd gen unit.....the problem seems to be in most of them I think. Seriously, I think my solution is the best way. Its really not all that hard...there are actually only 3 wires in the in the 6 pin connector (L+, R+, and data....a common ground is used), and 3 wires in the 3 pin. Its really pretty straightforward if you use t-taps and spade terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mine is a 3rd gen unit.....the problem seems to be in most of them I think. Seriously, I think my solution is the best way. Its really not all that hard...there are actually only 3 wires in the in the 6 pin connector (L+, R+, and data....a common ground is used), and 3 wires in the 3 pin. Its really pretty straightforward if you use t-taps and spade terminals.
I wonder how the Intravee II works... For my wife's car, I'm going to buy one of those if we hookup an iPod... I've had the Icelink, Icelink Plus, DICE and DICE Silverline... they all have a common trait--problematic...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine is a 3rd gen unit.....the problem seems to be in most of them I think. Seriously, I think my solution is the best way. Its really not all that hard...there are actually only 3 wires in the in the 6 pin connector (L+, R+, and data....a common ground is used), and 3 wires in the 3 pin. Its really pretty straightforward if you use t-taps and spade terminals.
wiring a button upfront is what I'm concerned about...
 

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wiring a button upfront is what I'm concerned about...
The button wiring isn't too bad. I used a two position on-off switch from radioshack, was about 5 dollars. I used the little "tray" or whatever you call it that is right behind the cupholders. It had a little black insert that I pryed out, then I dremeled a hole big enough for the switch and popped it right in. From there it was a simple matter of running wire from it to the trunk. I used speaker wire so I'd already have both ends of the connection with one wire run. I simply ran it out of the side of the center console, under the drivers seat and into the side sills to the backseat, then through the grommet. Once in the trunk, I hooked it up so that the switch would be iin-between the part of the power circuit going to the sat radio (the red wire with green stripe). The switch install took about 10 minutes in all.

The final result is well worth it, as once you have it set up, you simply press the switch on to get SIRIUS, and when you want DICE back you hit the switch back off. The radio constantly polls for IBUS devices, so even with the car running and radio on, you can hit the switch at any time and SIRIUS always comes back as a selectable mode. I actually believe the source of the interference to not actually be an internal issue with the expansion port on the SIRIUS unit, but rather some sort of other ground loop that gets created when both SIRIUS and DICE units are receiving power. The SIRIUS unit never gets noise so I believe the DICE to be simply designed poorly in such a way that it cannot handle the interference where the SIRIUS is unaffected. Unfortunately this means you can't just use the power switch, you have to bypass the 6 and 3 pin connectors as well, because I tried running the setup with the sirius power off but everything else still trying to go into the expansion port, and sound sort of came through but it was really really low level and you could barely hear it.

If you have any other questions about my setup feel free to ask. I can tell you my button is totally hidden with the armrest down and its all very stealth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The button wiring isn't too bad. I used a two position on-off switch from radioshack, was about 5 dollars. I used the little "tray" or whatever you call it that is right behind the cupholders. It had a little black insert that I pryed out, then I dremeled a hole big enough for the switch and popped it right in. From there it was a simple matter of running wire from it to the trunk. I used speaker wire so I'd already have both ends of the connection with one wire run. I simply ran it out of the side of the center console, under the drivers seat and into the side sills to the backseat, then through the grommet. Once in the trunk, I hooked it up so that the switch would be iin-between the part of the power circuit going to the sat radio (the red wire with green stripe). The switch install took about 10 minutes in all.

The final result is well worth it, as once you have it set up, you simply press the switch on to get SIRIUS, and when you want DICE back you hit the switch back off. The radio constantly polls for IBUS devices, so even with the car running and radio on, you can hit the switch at any time and SIRIUS always comes back as a selectable mode. I actually believe the source of the interference to not actually be an internal issue with the expansion port on the SIRIUS unit, but rather some sort of other ground loop that gets created when both SIRIUS and DICE units are receiving power. The SIRIUS unit never gets noise so I believe the DICE to be simply designed poorly in such a way that it cannot handle the interference where the SIRIUS is unaffected. Unfortunately this means you can't just use the power switch, you have to bypass the 6 and 3 pin connectors as well, because I tried running the setup with the sirius power off but everything else still trying to go into the expansion port, and sound sort of came through but it was really really low level and you could barely hear it.

If you have any other questions about my setup feel free to ask. I can tell you my button is totally hidden with the armrest down and its all very stealth.

Would you mind posting a few pictures? Thats great... Now that you too believe the issue to be the Dice, I think if I go with an iPod in the wife's car I'll be going with the Intravee II for sure...
 

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Would you mind posting a few pictures? Thats great... Now that you too believe the issue to be the Dice, I think if I go with an iPod in the wife's car I'll be going with the Intravee II for sure...
No prob man, I don't have my digital cam with me right now but I'll some up in a few days. The issue is definitely the dice, because the BMW changer as well as a blitzsafe adapter I had lying around both worked perfectly when going through the SAT expansion port. Its just unfortunately not the most well designed device, and I too wish I had gone with the more expensive (but well worth it) Intravee II solution. For this car though, the switch and bypass solution does work and saves you having to buy more stuff since you already own the dice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BTW, here's the Intravee II:
http://www.bimmernav.com/store/catalog/bmw-intravee-ii-bmw-to-alpine-ainet-module-item-166.html

I wonder if the cable is the same as the Dice? If so, I might buy this and swap the modules. Here's the install guide:
http://www.intravention.co.uk/files/public/Documentation/Intravee_Quick_Install_Guide.pdf

So it looks like it would come with the Alpine adapter--you just need this Alpine KCA-420i adapter also I'm guessing ($100):
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product_acc.php?model=KCA-420i
 

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If by "I wonder if the cable is same as the DICE", you mean the harness, they are different Im pretty sure. The Intravee II has its own proprietary cable which terminates with sockets for the 3 and 6 pin connectors. Note that the Intravee pretty much has to go in the trunk, so your going to need a 6 foot ipod dock extenion cable, which will run you about 30 dollars on top of the AINET intervace and Vee II itself.

BTW, the intravee apparently can actually have the same problem as the DICE when used with a SIRIUS Unit, although there is apparently a jumper available that fixes the problem. Check out this link(even though its for an m5 the same principles apply):

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...ius-radio-interference-problem-need-help.html

Note that I also across a forum wherein a person with a range rover with intravee performed the same IBUS splitter "surgery" that I did, and it also corrected his problem. I am beginning to think some people justget lucky and have SAT radio units and DICE/VEE units that somehow play nice together, while the rest of us either have to resort to manual IPOD control and blitzsafe adapters, or perform IBUS surgery like I did if you want it to work properly with SAT radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If by "I wonder if the cable is same as the DICE", you mean the harness, they are different Im pretty sure. The Intravee II has its own proprietary cable which terminates with sockets for the 3 and 6 pin connectors. Note that the Intravee pretty much has to go in the trunk, so your going to need a 6 foot ipod dock extenion cable, which will run you about 30 dollars on top of the AINET intervace and Vee II itself.

BTW, the intravee apparently can actually have the same problem as the DICE when used with a SIRIUS Unit, although there is apparently a jumper available that fixes the problem. Check out this link(even though its for an m5 the same principles apply):

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...ius-radio-interference-problem-need-help.html

Note that I also across a forum wherein a person with a range rover with intravee performed the same IBUS splitter "surgery" that I did, and it also corrected his problem. I am beginning to think some people justget lucky and have SAT radio units and DICE/VEE units that somehow play nice together, while the rest of us either have to resort to manual IPOD control and blitzsafe adapters, or perform IBUS surgery like I did if you want it to work properly with SAT radio.
Yes, I was referring to the harness...

re: Intravee noise: interesting... I'm thinking that your toggle switch is now the way to go for sure... If you could post a few pictures of your work when you get a chance, I can take it to my shop and have them fix it. They felt really bad about how the install turned out...

BTW, what happens when you toggle the mode button on the radio? Does it just hit the CD changer or Sirius input based upon what you are feeding power to it by? Or will it always see both?
 

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Yes, I was referring to the harness...

re: Intravee noise: interesting... I'm thinking that your toggle switch is now the way to go for sure... If you could post a few pictures of your work when you get a chance, I can take it to my shop and have them fix it. They felt really bad about how the install turned out...

BTW, what happens when you toggle the mode button on the radio? Does it just hit the CD changer or Sirius input based upon what you are feeding power to it by? Or will it always see both?
The way that the toggle switch works, is it is inline to only the SIRIUS's power connection. With the switch on or off, you will always have the CD1 changer mode for the DICE available. However, with it off the SIRIUS mode disappears as a selectable mode. Switching the switch brings it back as a selectable mode immediately. As soon as I have my digital cam handy I'll get a picture of the switch, but the general idea is basically this:

-Cut ends off of 3 and 6 pin connector part of SAT harness about 3 or 4 inchs from the end.
-Splice these ends in to the approriate wires leading into the 3 and 6 pin wires that go to the SIRIUS unit about 6 inchs from the end
-After this you will have a second set of 6 and a 3 pin connectors to wire up your DICE unit, and you can simply connect them as usual.
-Then, you need to cut the red wire w/green stripe going to the 3 pin connector for the SIRIUS, but of course you could cut it AFTER the part where you spliced the other wires in (this is why I said leave 6 inches or so).
-Then from here, its a simple matter of wiring the 2 position switch so that it completes the circuit between the wire you cut when on.

I recommend using the following things to make it easier:
T-taps: www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d265.html
Quick disconnects (for connecting wires to T-taps, and wiring up switch): http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104018

Its pretty much a matter of crimping the t-taps onto the 6 required wires, then crimping on male quick disconnects to the sat harness wires, and then plugging them together. Then all you have to do is run speaker wire (or just 2 sets of wire) to the switch, and crimping male disconnects on them. The wire will then just snap onto the two sides of the switch, and your good to go :)
 

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Ok snapped some quick camera phone shots of it all. As you can see the armrest totally covers it...its a simple push button on/off switch, actually can be illuminated however I chose not too hook it up that way because I didn't want it to be seen at night.
 

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