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Dashcam Hardwire Install DIY (switched power)

82K views 117 replies 42 participants last post by  Sergeys.s54  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been wanting a dashcam for some time now and I finally bought one. I picked up an A118 B40-C camera for under $100. This guide is not specific to this camera, nor is it even specific to cameras. The most useful part of this guide is simply the switched power that I pull from the Homelink connector.

I like clean installs and I HATE damaging factory wiring. So, how do you avoid this? You use a factory connector. All E46s come prewired for Homelink so they all have a little white three pin connector under the sunroof controls. It couldn't be easier.

Required Tools:

Butter knife (or other thin prying tool)
Soldering Iron
Solder
Wire Strippers (I love these Irwin Strippers)

What I bought:

Dashcam + SD Card + DC to DC Converter

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Don't forget some heatshrink tubing to cover the splice later and some small zip ties for wire management.

Now you have two options for the connector

Option 1 (performed here):

Wire
20 AWG automotive wire (thin insulation is best)

Connector (x1):
Tyco Part number 2-968700-1

Terminals (x2 needed, buy more for mistakes):
Tyco Part number 963716-2

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Option 1 requires access to a Tyco Crimp tool (below), which most people are not going to have. I recommend option 2!

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Option 2:

Connector + Wires from BMW

Connector (x1):
BMW Part Number 61136931929

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Terminal + Wire (x2):
BMW Part Number: 61130005198

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Connector Assembly

After purchasing your components, the first step is to assemble your connector. If you chose option 1, crimp your terminals onto 20 AWG (0.5 mm^2) wire. Strip length is 3/16". If you chose option 2, simply insert one terminal into the Pin 1 (power) hole and the other into the Pin 3 (ground) hole.

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Then close the TPA clasp.

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Power Adapter Splicing

You have a couple options to splice the connector that you just made to your DC to DC converter. You can solder (with a few methods) or crimp. I chose to solder as it gives the cleanest and smoothest connection.

Specifically I chose the mesh solder splice. It only works with stranded wires. Strip about 3/4"-1" of wire from each wire to be connected. Put your heatshrink tubing over the wires before joining them.

Next push the wires to be spliced into eachother. You need to wiggle them a little and some strands will bend.

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Now give them each a slight twist. This is to keep the strands close in together for a smooth joint.

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Now apply your solder.

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And then put your shrink tubing over the joint. This is your result:

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For this specific application, this is now what you have:

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Car Installation:

Remove the cover in the roof panel using the butter knife.

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This exposes the Homelink connector. Pull it out of the homelink device. This will disable homelink of course. Who uses this anyway? If you're really smart, you can figure out how to create a Y-connector to power the dashcam (or radar detector) and the Homelink at the same time (parallel connection).

Also remove the light unit from the spot in front of the homelink trim piece. It's easy to remove from the top with your fingers. Simply push down on it, and it pops you.

If you do not have Homelink, then you will have to go fishing for this connector up next to the sunroof motor. It is white. There is a black one up there that will not work. Find the white connector.

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Plug in the connector you just built:

Partial insertion pictured. As you can see, the Green/Blue wire is power (Pin 1). The Brown wire is ground (Pin 3).
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Now fish the USB end of the adapter to the windshield

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You're basically done. Set up your dashcam in the position that you prefer most. Then do some wire management and stuff the adapter up into the roof.

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My wires didn't fit well here, and I moved them to clear the lights, but this shows the idea.

Finished mounting:

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The other wire is the GPS antenna that I put on the other side of the mirror.

Results:

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People with black interiors will have little problem, but my biege dash really ruins the picture. This is what I've purchased to fix the glare. I'll post back once it's installed.

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I forgot to edit this when I got the polarized filter. It doesn't really do anything except ruin night performance. It slightly reduced the dash reflection, but really there's nothing I can do about it other than paint the dash black.

PARTS FOR Y ADAPTER

If you want to make a Y adapter to power both the homelink and another device, then you need the car-side connector and terminals. I have not tested this, but theoretically it should work since you're just tapping 12VDC in parallel.

Connector:
61138377072
Terminal Pigtails: 61130005197

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A more future proof suggestion from another owner:

Another happy customer of this mod. Thank you to the OP.

All that I can add here is that Amazon sells a 12V to 5V converter rated for 3A output which has a USB A female jack on the output side. I think that's a better way to go than fully hardwiring everything downstream of the white plug.

Perhaps in the future, dash cams will drop the Mini USB standard for USB C, so it's better to just provide power to a universal USB A jack into which you plug your terminal cord up in the headliner. Wrap the joint with electrical tape if it makes you happy.

I've seen 50cm Mini USB/USB A cords for sale which minimize the amount of bulky USB cord you have to stuff in that confined space.


Sure thing. This is the voltage converter with USB A output:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RBWX2GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the short cable leading down to plug into the dash cam. 90 degree right turn at the Mini USB terminal was correct for my situation, but each installation will differ.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JYSBB8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
#3 ·
Great work. If I understand correctly, this model has a capacitor in it, so it will continue recording for a nominal amount of time in the event of an accident or some such that cuts power? I was under the impression that such tech could not be had for under $100. If this is legit I am going to do this ASAP.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Great work. If I understand correctly, this model has a capacitor in it, so it will continue recording for a nominal amount of time in the event of an accident or some such that cuts power? I was under the impression that such tech could not be had for under $100.
The capacitor or battery (I have) doesn't continue to record, but writes the last video on the memory card if car power is cut. So you don't lose the last minute of vid which may be the most critical in an accident. My dash cam writes in one minute files.
Can get units even cheaper. Astonishing what can be had.
But the cheaper you go, the lower the quality. Watch Russian dash cams and you'll see they fall far short of 1080p.
 
#10 ·
May I ask why you chose to go with that model dash cam? Would you recommend it?

I've been looking into getting one too and the one's i found all have good reviews so its hard to pick one without trying it first. Mostly been looking at a GARMIN, COBRA and FALCON brand dash cam among others. Somewhat well known brands. No idea which to get but I like the look of yours.
 
#11 ·
It's a good bang for the buck. It serves it's purpose too. No reason to go super fancy.



Cheapish quality cam. You get what you pay for.
You also skimped on the memory card. Should've gotten a 64g.
Overthinking a very simple install too.
Not rocket science. I think my neighbor's 12 year old
Installed his mom's cam like no biggie.
Happy to see your proud of yourself though.
Meh.

Max is 32 GB. No reason to go that high really anyway. The max film you'll ever actually need per instance is a couple clips (6 minutes for me).

Trolls gonna troll.
 
#20 ·
Got the wiring idea from multiple places. One was a Valentine One guide. Never saw this guy's guide. Of course none of them used the ground that is right there nor did they use the factory connector. That's the largest point of my DIY (connector and terminal part numbers plus pin out).

Idk what post style you're talking about. Seems pretty standard. I try to be concise.
 
#21 ·
Difficult to believe Mango, with such a vaunted and fastidious reputation for detection of minutiae, could overlook one of the first sentences in your post WD, the one that clearly points out that the most important part of your post was the utilization of the factory wiring. New #1 pet peeve - people who don't read before they post. Mango you have jumped people's sh*t numerous times in the past for the breach of etiquette you just now perpetrated yourself.

The post is useful. Period.
 
#24 ·
I tried tapping into the homelink wire with the 3M connector but couldn't get power. Am I tapping into the correct wire? It seems like the homelink connection should be a white plug at the end of the bundle, and mine is a black plug. I tried both pins, 1 and 3, since I'm red/green color blind. The other two white connectors in the middle of the bundle have only one pin each, so I don't think they are the homelink connectors.
Should I try tapping into the sunroof switch wires?
 

Attachments

#28 · (Edited)
My polarizer lens arrived today. I held it up in front of the camera and rotated it around. It didn't do much for the dash reflection, but the image is much better in general, so I am going to use it. I'm 3D printing an adapter at work to mount it cleanly to the camera. I'll try to post the STL file once that's done.

 
#34 ·
Here is the lens installed.

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I'm a bit nervous about gluing it. I may see if it'll stay as press fit or use hot glue. If the night performance is bad I will remove it.

I won't be distributing the 3D file as it took too much filing to fit. Some of the dimensions need adjusting but I'm not doing a second iteration to get one that works out of the printer. It was printed on a FormLabs Form One+.
 
#36 ·
I was looking at the very same camera for over a week now. I think I am going to buy it after seeing this and seeing how it fits in a E46.

Can you take a few more pictures of your install from the inside and the outside? I am very interested in the size of the camera and how it fits in the space behind the rear view mirror, and if there are any clearance issues.

Also, have you thought of fitting it right below the rain sensor, in the centre of the windshield, or does that look to strange?
 
#38 ·
I was looking at the very same camera for over a week now. I think I am going to buy it after seeing this and seeing how it fits in a E46.



Can you take a few more pictures of your install from the inside and the outside? I am very interested in the size of the camera and how it fits in the space behind the rear view mirror, and if there are any clearance issues.



Also, have you thought of fitting it right below the rain sensor, in the centre of the windshield, or does that look to strange?

The only limitation is how far up in the windshield I can put it behind the mirror. If you go too high it'll actually contact the back of the mirror. I have it at a height that leaves only a cm or clearance for the mirror to move left and right.

The other limitation for placement is with the cables. As you can see they stick out a over an inch. Also to remove the camera you slide it off of a tab and move it about a half inch backward so you need that clearance as well to be able to take it off the mount.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Nice, good to see others installing dashcams. As mango said, I just made a thread earlier this year on it. I do like the features of that cam, but I think the mobius is cleaner and a bit more stealthy (only one input wire, not a fan of the gps cable= more clutter, and the mobius has the option of removing the lens from the unit and placing the heat sink inside of the homelink area for an even more stealthy appearance). I actually can't see the camera at all from the drivers side, and its nice because people who get in the car and drive it don't know that it is there.

http://e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1067906

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#40 ·
I actually can't see the camera at all from the drivers side, and its nice because people who get in the car and drive it don't know that it is there.
+1 on that being so for my ITB-100HD also. Just the right size, shape and mount to easily be placed to disappear behind the mirror. I've had several mechanics test drive the car and never make a comment on the cam being there. Then after I can download and watch exactly where they took the car and how they drove.

I own two Mobius too, so I can recommend the ITB-100HD head and shoulders above the Mobius for dash cam application. The dedicated unit just makes life so much simpler. And I think the iTronics has a wider wide angle lens than the Mobius.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I thought about the Mobius for a long time. I had it on my Amazon wish list for over a year. The remote lens I thought was really cool but I'd have to take the panel out to get to the card.

I do like having the screen on the A118. It's nice to be able to change settings on it in the car. Of course I won't be touching settings anymore so it doesn't matter that much. In terms of visibility of the unit itself, it's not invasive at all. Sure it's visible but it's not distracting. I don't notice it except for power on. The screen turns off after a minute. Also, if I put it on the right side, it wouldn't be visible at all to the driver. Same as the Mobius. I also like pushing a button to save the current clip because I'm saving all the idiots I see hahaha.

And about the secret filming: I'm not exactly concerned about joyriders in my E46. If I take it to BMW, then its nothing special and even for a valet it's not anything cool enough to fuck with. I doubt they'd consider unplugging it.
 
#42 ·
Yeah I get it. I installed my dash cam with the sole purpose of being there just in case I need it. It's always recording when the cars on, no fuss, don't even know its there. When I need a video from it, I take my laptop and plug it directly into the back of the dash cam and take the data off it. I don't bother removing the memory card or the camera.
 
#45 ·
Just performed the installation pretty much exactly as WD, except for the connector. I bought the BMW wires & endplug. Had to locate the white connector. It was wrapped in some annoying tarry felt tape.

The power is not at pin 3 as WD described, it's at pin 1. So WD you got the polarity reversed. Or they got the polarity reversed at the factory. All I know is pin 1 is power, not pin 3 - at least for this e46.

Watch out for that headliner material. It gets dirty very easily.